I think so... I have just 2 vacuum hoses on the front ("timed vacuum" and "PCV port" on the diagram...). The 3rd port over (manifold vacuum) on the right doesn't have a hose at all, and from inspection, it looked like it was capped previously, as I couldn't find a lose hose or anywhere it was supposed to go to. Probably pointless, but I tried a temporary fix of "capping" it with electrical tape.
Anyway, this morning I just went out and tried to get it to start and couldn't get it to turn over at all, on it's own. I poured some gas in the carb and then was able to get it to start, but it sounds more rough today than yesterday, and won't idle on it's own (like it would yesterday) - maybe from the engine being cool, and not warmed up from the sun?
Regardless, it will stall out if I don't keep "quick tapping/pumping" the gas pedal.
I uploaded a video, showing that it will stall out unless I keep pressing the pedal in a certain way -- and then I let it stall out at the end. Wondering if your ears can hear any clues...?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfSPVr_jvbk

I'll go look again to see if maybe there is supposed to be a 3rd vacuum hose going somewhere, but may not be able to check until my lunch break.

 

Thanks Tony - I'm glad you mentioned that, as it reminded me that when I took out the metering rods the first time and sprayed them with carb cleaner, that I had to keep messing with one of them to get it to go back in to be "springy" again -- it acted like it was sticking/catching. Finally, I was able to get it to where it wasn't sticking/catching, and closed the top, but I wondered if it would *stay* springy after I closed the top, or if it would "stick" again. The other metering rod was fine (stayed springy). So you may be on to something. How would I solve a metering rod that "sticks"?

 

I'm still wondering about a vacuum leak, specially after opening the carb up (good chance to tear a gasket) and putting it back together. Also check the large vacuum line that goes from the back of the carb, to the power brake booster, (big round can that the master cylender is bolted to) Make sure that hose is on, and not split.

 

Ok, on mine, there's no line on the back of the carb --it's sealed/plugged. On the Edelbrock video I watched, they mentioned that this is one of the normal configurations. Also, regarding the gasket, I didn't take off the top of the carb to get into the area where the floats are, so I'm thinking I'm good there. But maybe I didn't wipe off the manifold gasket good enough before I put it back on the block, or maybe I didn't tighten the carb down enough -- I didn't check to see what the torque was supposed to be, and maybe I should do that (I didn't want to overtighten).

 

OK, I see you do have power brakes, but that vacuum line may be hooked up at your intake manifold, and that's alright too.
Make sure that port at the back of the carb is sealed off really well. That can be a massive vaccum leak.

 

Will do - thanks!

 

Ok, I checked the metering rods again and they seem to be nice and springy (that one I mentioned isn't sticking anymore). I took off the carb again and checked the manifold gaskets and they look good - I cleaned them anyway, and put everything back on as it was.

I fired it up again, but it won't start on it's own unless I pour a little gas in the carb first. And like I said before, I can keep it running only if I do the quick pedal press thing to keep it from stalling out. So still at that place.

Anyway, Bob said to look for a hose that might be supposed to go to the manifold vacuum port on the carb and upon another search, I found this... but it's not long enough to reach the manifold vacuum port on the carb... (what is it?)

I see some hoses to the left of this mystery hose and a stem thingy sticking up that has 2 ports that are rubber capped (one sticking out more than the other) -- Is this mystery hose supposed to go to one of those ports?




Here's the mystery hose, I thought maybe it was supposed to go to the manifold vacuum on the carb, but it's not long enough.




Wondering if it's supposed to go to one of the ports on that stem thingy to its left that has a couple capped ports?

BTW, I did a google search on what I'm supposed to connect that 3rd port (manifold vacuum) on the carb to, and someone (at this link) says it's for if you have automatic transmission -- which I do. So I guess I need to find out where I'm supposed to plug that into, and buy a hose of the correct length -- can anyone confirm?

Thanks for any insight!

 

If you have any ports on the intake or carb that are open, it's best to cap them. Until it runs you won't know if it's pulling vacuum or not. Picking up several feet of vacuum hose is never a bad idea. I always opt to replace questionable vacuum lines. A Gasket set for the carb should be under 20 dollars, it'll come with a new gasket for the intake - carb.

So you know have the carb removed cleaned all accessible pieces including the metering rods and the passages they rest in, have it bolted back on.

When cranking it fires only when you add a little bit of fuel. Rather than pouring gas down, will it crank if you pump the pedal a few times?

Too see if that is giving gas, look down the carb and work the linkage you should see fuel squirt (if the choke plate is open). Don't get too close as I have seen it blow back, though I can't remember why. Gas in the eye isn't a fun thing though.

If it is spraying (nice even spray) then you can forgo pouring fuel down her throat and just go with pumping the pedal. Let me know if you can get there, and we'll walk through the next steps.

Adjusting the idle way up so that it runs on it's own, checking mani vacuum and adjusting the carb fuel ratios.

If anyone wants to jump in at any time, it's been years since I worked on a carb and I'm going with my brain, which has lost quite a few brain cells!!!

 

Oh just in case you wonder what I mean by vacuum line, it comes in all colors and materials, but just something like this would do.

50 ft for 10$ You'll never have to buy it again.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27041-W...ds=vacuum+line

 

Thanks Josh -- getting back to you on your questions... I don't see any gas squirting into the carb when I move the lever...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXEXafMypWE


So that explains why it won't start *unless* I pour a little gas in the carb.
But if it's not getting gas to start, then how is it getting any gas when I do that quick press the pedal thing, like this...?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGNmXOOgokM


Thanks again - let me know if this is getting to be too much, and I can have it towed to a mechanic here. I was just hoping it might be something that didn't require that. I sure appreciate everyone's help.

 

When you put the carb back together, smoething must have happened to the accelorator pump in the carb.

 

Perhpas moving the lever, you didn't actually actuate the accelerator pump. Give google a shot, so you know which piece is the accel pump, make sure when you activate the level the pump is getting movement.

Also, heres a good vid to get you started on adjusting idle speed and fuel mixture. I start with a high idle speed because it's less likely to stall, as you get it closer, you can adjust it down to what you want it to be, about 900 I'd say in park, as putting it in gear will drop it just a little bit more.

 

Kris,

Just wanted to check in and see what progress you have made?

 

Hi Josh,
Thanks for checking - I have been super tied up and have not made any progress on the carb. I'm pretty sure I just need to tow it to a mechanic. One of the reasons is that I need to get the automatic transmission looked at too. Back when I started this thread about the carb, when I originally got it fired up, I attempted to move the truck from one part of my driveway to another - which I did successfully. However, the transmission wasn't functioning correctly and felt really weak on torque. When I shifted to reverse, nothing happened - but when I shifted to Neutral (one slot over) it engaged in reverse. When I shifted to Drive it was actually in Neutral. And, as you guessed, when I shifted to "2", it was actually in "Drive" -- basically, the indicators are all shifted over by 1 space. This problem was likely caused when I received the truck from the shipper back in Feb and we attempted to pull the truck up the driveway (since it wasn't running)--basically I screwed up - a bunch of things were going on at the same time, I released the parking brake but *cringe* forgot to put it in Neutral - and obviously noticed as soon as he started pull me, and I frantically shifted the transmission into Neutral as fast as I could, but it took a good tug to force it since we were already "jerkily" moving forward (and there was no way he could've heard me holler at him to stop). Back when that happened, I looked at the transmission underneath the next morning, there was a little fluid coming out of the drive shaft (from the horrible pressure created), but it wasn't leaking and is still not leaking today, months later. Also, back when it happened, someone on another thread told me that I might be ok, and might only need a new seal, but I'm not so sure since recently when I was able to move it on its own power (when I first got it to fire up after cleaning the carb), the transmission seemed really "weak", meaning when I pressed the pedal, there wasn't much torque - very sluggish.
So, that was a long story, but all that to say, I will probably be better off towing it to a mechanic since I need more than the carb fixed. Oof!
But I'll keep you guys posted on how things turn out. Thanks for checking in!

 

So a good rule of thumb on older vehicles is to distrust the gear selector needle and just count the 'clicks' PRNDL (yes I know it chrysler, I'm a jeep guy in all reality) but it's the same, Park Reverse Neutral Drive There are detents in the shifter that may be slightly off from the cable driven needle. Trust the detents, not the needle. Cables slip and stretch.

That being said, I can't see how towing it in park would have forced the fluid out. Last time I towed a vehicle that had something like that, the parking pawl locked in and blew out the side of the transmission case! So if the parking Pawl does actually hold the vehicle, you probably are safe, there. As for sluggishness, I'd guess that it's just really low on fluid, since you do have a fluid leak. Once it runs, it's easy enough to check. Don't trust the fluid level with out the engine warmed up and the engine running. (unless these old Fords are just backwards from the rest of the stuff I've worked on).

But it's your call on the mechanic, I think you'd get off cheaper by replacing the carb, as doing it yourself would still save you labor charges. Also, the guys in the section for your particular truck would be a great resource, if you still want to keep tackling it yourself. You seem more than competent enough.