1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Engine Missing

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  #31  
Old 08-02-2016, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Make sure all components are OEM. If your pig tails and gaskets are OEM and in good shape then stick with the OBS stuff.

When I had my bout with Dorman wiring everything would test fine but the truck ran like crap even with new Dorman parts. I switched to OBS OEM and it fixed it for about 3 years until I had more melted connectors. So then I switched to the SD style. Other guys run Dorman wiring without any trouble though.

For the SD Conversion:
Valve Cover Gasket for Ford 7.3L Powerstroke (99-03)
Under Valve Cover Harness 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Valve Cover Gasket Connector Pigtail for Ford 99-03 7.3L Powerstroke

thanks for all your help, I will get the parts ordered from Riff Raff and hopefully that will fix it.
Thanks again
RB
 
  #32  
Old 08-05-2016, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by m50
thanks for all your help, I will get the parts ordered from Riff Raff and hopefully that will fix it.
Thanks again
RB
I got my parts from Riff Raff and installed them this morning.
Bad news is that did not fix my problem. It is still running on 4 cyl. just like it was.
I had 1 battery with a dead short could that have fried the IDM?
Thanks RB
 
  #33  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
if you ohm ed it all out then it should be good except for the one that's a lli low.


Wiring gets confusing fast. The SD valve cover gaskets have better connectors and only one per side. They don't fail as often but you have to splice them in.


the two front pass one don't change idle when unplugging, since wiring is ok it could be IDM at fault
Is the IDM from Riff Raff ok to use ? It is not OEM.
I replaced the VC, and UVCH to OEM but it did not change anything.
Could a shorted out battery burn up the IDM?
Thanks RB
 
  #34  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:12 PM
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shorted battery don't usually take any thing out


Riff Raff sells good stuff IMO


Sounds like you have a bad wire in harness, OHM out the connector above to your injectors from feed to switched ground and report findings
 
  #35  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:35 PM
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Are you sure you didn't mix up any wires on the SD harness conversion? You wouldn't be the first guy to do that. You can use your DVOM to check that all the wires are hooked up properly. I was really hoping that would solve your issue.

Also, if know someone who would let you swap IDMs for testing that would go a long way.

I haven't looked at the riff raff idm, but any used OEM IDM 1994.5-2003 7.3 will work, probably a little cheaper.
 
  #36  
Old 08-05-2016, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Are you sure you didn't mix up any wires on the SD harness conversion? You wouldn't be the first guy to do that. You can use your DVOM to check that all the wires are hooked up properly. I was really hoping that would solve your issue.

Also, if know someone who would let you swap IDMs for testing that would go a long way.

I haven't looked at the riff raff idm, but any used OEM IDM 1994.5-2003 7.3 will work, probably a little cheaper.
I did not go with the SD wiring I stayed with the stock wires.
I do not know anyone with an IDM that I could borrow, Is there any way to test the IDM?
 
  #37  
Old 08-05-2016, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope


shorted battery don't usually take any thing out


Riff Raff sells good stuff IMO


Sounds like you have a bad wire in harness, OHM out the connector above to your injectors from feed to switched ground and report findings
I did this the other day with the help of Cowmilker the ohms were the same at the IDM as they were at the Injectors. I wanted to change out the China wires for OEM and was hoping that would cure my problem.
I have changed the IDM out on this truck twice already in the last 10 yrs.
Thanks RB
 
  #38  
Old 08-05-2016, 02:59 PM
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Well, if you're sure that the wiring is good, and still only 1 bank is running, then that would seem to indicate a idm problem. There is probably an idm test procedure but i dont know.
 
  #39  
Old 08-05-2016, 03:06 PM
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not sure how handy you are but maybe you can measure the source voltage going to the injectors, if its not there then IDM is possibly bad based on your info. its also high DC volts of 110-140v depending on model.
 
  #40  
Old 08-08-2016, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
not sure how handy you are but maybe you can measure the source voltage going to the injectors, if its not there then IDM is possibly bad based on your info. its also high DC volts of 110-140v depending on model.
Ok still trying to figure this out.
How would I go about measuring the source voltage to the injectors?
Thanks RB
 
  #41  
Old 08-08-2016, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by m50
Ok still trying to figure this out.
How would I go about measuring the source voltage to the injectors?
Thanks RB
Connect probe to ground and then other to center pin on injector harness. Should read 110 v DC. I have not tried it yet on mine but could tomorrow to confirm. Hopefully it isn't an isolated ground.
 
  #42  
Old 08-09-2016, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
Connect probe to ground and then other to center pin on injector harness. Should read 110 v DC. I have not tried it yet on mine but could tomorrow to confirm. Hopefully it isn't an isolated ground.
If you have time to try this that would be great, I hope to have time tonight to check it out. I would guess this test would be done with the key on?
Thanks RB
 
  #43  
Old 08-09-2016, 07:48 AM
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when running, not sure what IDM does with engine off key on


buzz test should tell you if its working or not
 
  #44  
Old 08-09-2016, 11:19 AM
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when you say running on 4 cylinders does it sound like this:

When i had this problem I went to a local diesel injection shop and had them run contribution test and buzz tests. the guy also told me its very rare for idm to go bad its 99% the wiring harness. I was lucky and was an injector pin. one cylinder goes a long way in sound of the engine and making power. I saw you took the connectors off one side and made a little difference to idle. I would take valve cover off, start it and wiggle the injector connections as you said China and Dorman. I had to get a small screw driver and pry the UVCH connection on to the injector so it would make contact. while your under the valve cover make sure the oil coming out of the injector drains look uniform. should be a little gush of oil after every fire.
 
  #45  
Old 08-09-2016, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
when running, not sure what IDM does with engine off key on


buzz test should tell you if its working or not
Sorry I do not know how to do a buzz test.
I do not have a scanner and from what I could research I thought I would have to have one to do that, Is this correct?
thanks RB
 


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