6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

IPR valve goes bad every time i tow

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Old 07-13-2016, 04:17 AM
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IPR valve goes bad every time i tow

So I was hauling my utility trailer and my 4th IPR went out this year. The truck runs great for everyday driving, but every time I tow, the ipr fails. I am to the point where this truck is becoming useless and AAA knows what vehicle it is every time. "Chris is it the 2005 Excursion again?"

I have had it at ford and a local diesel shop and they said they don't see anything wrong. This started after I had the truck bulletproofed. I need it fixed for good or I need to start thinking about a Suburban or something else.

does anyone have any insight to what could be happening? I change my oil every 5000 miles with T6 synthetics and motorcraft filters. I run a SCT live wire plus on tow mode only.

Chris
 
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:53 AM
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What do you find when you take it out? How are you determining it's bad? Have any live data gauges? And lastly, what readings are you getting from it at idle and at 2500rpm... fully warmed up.
 
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:36 AM
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I agree,something just isn't right with that. Get us some numbers,then we can help out
 
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:37 AM
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Have you replaced the pigtail on the connector, maybe it's got an intermittent short and it eventually shorts out the sensor. While towing you drive for hours at a time vs. around town for 5-10 minutes?
 
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:54 AM
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Any heat shields around those new ipr, you did not say if anythings in the valve when taken off or screens condition.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cumminpwr11
So I was hauling my utility trailer and my 4th IPR went out this year. The truck runs great for everyday driving, but every time I tow, the ipr fails. I am to the point where this truck is becoming useless and AAA knows what vehicle it is every time. "Chris is it the 2005 Excursion again?"

I have had it at ford and a local diesel shop and they said they don't see anything wrong. This started after I had the truck bulletproofed. I need it fixed for good or I need to start thinking about a Suburban or something else.

does anyone have any insight to what could be happening? I change my oil every 5000 miles with T6 synthetics and motorcraft filters. I run a SCT live wire plus on tow mode only.

Chris
Sounds to me like there might be trash in the oil system that is clogging the IPR. How many oil changes have you done since the bulletproofing?
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:00 AM
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Ditto, I'd replace the whole pigtail and check the heat shields. You can get a new pigtail from Ford for thirty bucks (yeah, I know) and it has very long leads. You can peel back the split loom for two feet, splice the harness in, then reassemble the split loom nice and tidy.

Also, after connecting the pigtail back to the IPR, be sure to wiretie it off to something solid, in order to reduce the amount of vibration. At a certain RPM you may be experiencing a resonant sympathetic vibration that is juuuuuuust enough to compromise the conductivity of an already-old pigtail connector.

And like I said, check the heatshields are still in place. By 2016 your heatshields may well be completely missing. Seems like my engine loses one random heatshield or cover every service visit.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by lwems
Seems like my engine loses one random heatshield or cover every service visit.

REPS sent
Also why I prefer to do my own repairs/maintenance
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:10 AM
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We use old heat insulation off the hoods of none running cars, peel off the paper like covers and get just the insulation out then push pieces in between the turbo pipe and the ipr valve and wires, no heat to the wires at all.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:38 AM
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Yeah, or just run up to the attic in your house and tear off a piece of fiberglass insulation. It's all the same thing.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 12:09 PM
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Im not sure it will hold the temps the turbo makes,never tried that,i did not know if the hood insulation would work ok but it does,no smell,no smoke,it does look like its more compacted than whats in attic.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 12:23 PM
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Fiberglass is fiberglass. It is all the same material: spun silicate glass.

When insulation is compacted, it doesn't work as well. The many tiny air gaps is what makes it insulate.

If in doubt, take a piece of fiberglass from attic and hold a propane torch on it. You'll see it can tolerate anything encountered under your hood.

EDIT: Note: remove the kraft paper backing before testing or installing.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 12:38 PM
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Well,im not in the insulation business so i realy dont know,but i do know what i used worked, looks like attic insulation may burnt deeper but would hold the heat from that turbo pipe at 1400 i guess, that on the right is off a 91 f350 turbo hood.
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 01:49 PM
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Wasn't the IPR heat shield/wrap removed in 2006?
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:10 PM
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No, I have a late build 2006 and it on there.
 


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