IPR valve goes bad every time i tow
#1
IPR valve goes bad every time i tow
So I was hauling my utility trailer and my 4th IPR went out this year. The truck runs great for everyday driving, but every time I tow, the ipr fails. I am to the point where this truck is becoming useless and AAA knows what vehicle it is every time. "Chris is it the 2005 Excursion again?"
I have had it at ford and a local diesel shop and they said they don't see anything wrong. This started after I had the truck bulletproofed. I need it fixed for good or I need to start thinking about a Suburban or something else.
does anyone have any insight to what could be happening? I change my oil every 5000 miles with T6 synthetics and motorcraft filters. I run a SCT live wire plus on tow mode only.
Chris
I have had it at ford and a local diesel shop and they said they don't see anything wrong. This started after I had the truck bulletproofed. I need it fixed for good or I need to start thinking about a Suburban or something else.
does anyone have any insight to what could be happening? I change my oil every 5000 miles with T6 synthetics and motorcraft filters. I run a SCT live wire plus on tow mode only.
Chris
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So I was hauling my utility trailer and my 4th IPR went out this year. The truck runs great for everyday driving, but every time I tow, the ipr fails. I am to the point where this truck is becoming useless and AAA knows what vehicle it is every time. "Chris is it the 2005 Excursion again?"
I have had it at ford and a local diesel shop and they said they don't see anything wrong. This started after I had the truck bulletproofed. I need it fixed for good or I need to start thinking about a Suburban or something else.
does anyone have any insight to what could be happening? I change my oil every 5000 miles with T6 synthetics and motorcraft filters. I run a SCT live wire plus on tow mode only.
Chris
I have had it at ford and a local diesel shop and they said they don't see anything wrong. This started after I had the truck bulletproofed. I need it fixed for good or I need to start thinking about a Suburban or something else.
does anyone have any insight to what could be happening? I change my oil every 5000 miles with T6 synthetics and motorcraft filters. I run a SCT live wire plus on tow mode only.
Chris
#7
Ditto, I'd replace the whole pigtail and check the heat shields. You can get a new pigtail from Ford for thirty bucks (yeah, I know) and it has very long leads. You can peel back the split loom for two feet, splice the harness in, then reassemble the split loom nice and tidy.
Also, after connecting the pigtail back to the IPR, be sure to wiretie it off to something solid, in order to reduce the amount of vibration. At a certain RPM you may be experiencing a resonant sympathetic vibration that is juuuuuuust enough to compromise the conductivity of an already-old pigtail connector.
And like I said, check the heatshields are still in place. By 2016 your heatshields may well be completely missing. Seems like my engine loses one random heatshield or cover every service visit.
Also, after connecting the pigtail back to the IPR, be sure to wiretie it off to something solid, in order to reduce the amount of vibration. At a certain RPM you may be experiencing a resonant sympathetic vibration that is juuuuuuust enough to compromise the conductivity of an already-old pigtail connector.
And like I said, check the heatshields are still in place. By 2016 your heatshields may well be completely missing. Seems like my engine loses one random heatshield or cover every service visit.
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#12
Fiberglass is fiberglass. It is all the same material: spun silicate glass.
When insulation is compacted, it doesn't work as well. The many tiny air gaps is what makes it insulate.
If in doubt, take a piece of fiberglass from attic and hold a propane torch on it. You'll see it can tolerate anything encountered under your hood.
EDIT: Note: remove the kraft paper backing before testing or installing.
When insulation is compacted, it doesn't work as well. The many tiny air gaps is what makes it insulate.
If in doubt, take a piece of fiberglass from attic and hold a propane torch on it. You'll see it can tolerate anything encountered under your hood.
EDIT: Note: remove the kraft paper backing before testing or installing.
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