First off, new here

Anyways, about 2 weeks ago I got back Into the 1/2 ton and 4x4 game (after 2 square body Rangers)

So it's a 95 F150, automatic 4x4. XL regular cab with an 8 foot bed. 206k KMS The MVI (motor vehicle inspection) ran out in late 2009, no big deal, for a grand I'll fix it up and go from there.

So I got it towed home, filled 2 jerry cans and filled the tank (3/4) and it has a leak. Wonderful. So, I drove it around in the woods for the time being and it ran pretty good, lacking power and a slight misfire. I assumed from the old gas and sitting (I know it had been used since 09, just not on the road)

Slowly but surely, it was getting better! I replaced the gas tank and after that I noticed it was only getting WORSE! In the last few days, it's gotten so bad, it sounds like it's only running on about 3 cylinders. Misses bad when trying to accelerate. Today I hauled some brush with it and kept it in 4 low just so I could actually try to drive it around...

When I started I notice it getting worse, I decided to plug in the extra MAP I found in the glovebox, and that didn't do anything. But at an idle, if I unplug the map the idle smoothes out.

Anyways the truck has new plugs, cap and button. The wires are on correct, so it makes me wonder if it's an on-going problem! But I think, it can't be because it ran pretty good when I got it! When I got it, if I floored it on gravel it wouldn't even spin...

I've put some fuel injector cleaner in it which did squat, and I've been checking around and everything LOOKS ok. But I dont know what it would be? Possibly the MAP? and sorry for my ignorance, I'm good at small mechanical stuff, but I can't stand all the electronics on new vehicles!

Also, the check engine light was on, and if I would rev it up it would go off untill it was at lower RPMS, and now when it's missing as bad as it is sometimes it goes off

I'm kind of bummed out its doing this, but I'm sure there must be a logical explanation.

Also, today while looking around under the hood while running I noticed some faint blue/grey smoke coming from the rear of the engine. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Kevin.

 

I don't think fuel is getting to the in-tank sending unit because your truck is upside down. Check the fuse for your anti-gravity solenoid...........

 

Maybe he's Australian it's actually right side up?


Try replacing the fuel filter. Fuel goes bad and gums things up in about 2-24 months (depending on ethanol content, fuel additives, temperature, humidity, and other things).


When you replaced the gas tank and used injector cleaner you probably knocked loose a bunch of junk in the filter sock that went to the main filter which was already mostly clogged up from having the same gas in it since '09.


Black/brown smoke is un-burnt fuel, blue smoke is oil. White smoke is coolant and smells sweet. Transmission and power steering are between dark grey and white.


Check your valve cover gasket. It's the only thing that would leak oil above the exhaust manifold.

 

Nope, canadian

Both the photos I uploaded are right-side-up to me!

Fuel filter is first on my list, as for the smoke it was hard to tell what color it was because it was so faint. Coming from the middle of the rear of the engine. So, I dont know. But that's not a concern if I can get it running right though!

One thing I should probably ask, the rear gas tank was removed before I bought the truck. The lines and everything else is still there, the ripped the connector off one of the fuel lines, and plugged it with a bolt. Is it possible that it's sucking air from there just recently and effecting it?

Also, I uploaded this photo upside down for you two

 

It's an Apple issue ... They have fup'ed the metadata!

Use Apples with this issue Upside Down!
Then it'll show right for the rest of the world but not you!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I see! Damn Apple!

I'll hop on the computer later and try to fix my photos lol...

 

since this vehicle is new to you i would start with the basics : compression check, fuel pressure check, and the traditional pulling of the codes.

 

I thought you couldn't pull codes from these trucks, only check engine light blinks (which I will do, but I fell like ot will only tell me "misfire"??? And by early next week I will be checking the conpression. Borrowing my dads conpression tester. But I really can't see it being that, as it did run pretty decent!

I had a very similar issue with a 92 ranger, except it came on almost instantly, to the point where I said "to hell with it" no big deal to me; but whereas I just got this I will fix it.

 

The poor man's way for running the KOEO, KOER tests and stored code display is counting the flashes. There are plenty of code readers capable of running the tests and displaying the numerical codes such as the Equus 3145.

BTW...there is no mis-fire code on this vintage Ford vehicle. There is no way for the computer to "sense" them.

 

I'll see what I can do. I know my father has a ford code reader. As for the misfire thing, I dont know, it was basically an example of what I thought id get from the flashes Lol.

 

A couple of things. Check the fuel pump in the tank, check the fuel fliter. Also check the EGR and the line to it (check engine light). EGR had me hare lipped for about 6 months with my 95.

 

To my knowledge. Nothing should be wrong with the in tank pump. Fuel filter is first on my list, unless I find what's wrong before I do buy a new one.

Where's the EGR?

 

The in tank pumps are finicky creatures. I'm assuming you removed it when you replaced the tank? The EGR is on the intake IIRC.

Here's a question. Was there any change in your fuel gauge reading after the tank swap? I ask because that was the first indication on mine when the front pump started going south.

These 4.9s are pretty stout little engines, so I'm hoping you get this figured out. Mine has 200k and no oil burn or leaks knock on wood.

 

No, didn't notice any changes. And yes, and I. Can tell if it would run right it would be a good engine Haha! 128k MILES on this one. Atleast the flatbed would make it easy to change the pump Haha

 

Here's a how-to on the codes...

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-co...er/#entry74587

The shop manual has pinpoint testing procedures for each code, that's a good way to diagnose the issue and resolve it.

I'd start there, it may be something simple.