I'm getting a 111 11 327 code, to my knowledge 111 and 11 pass. The 327 reputed twice, then it stopped blinking. earlier in the day I couldn't make any sense of the blinks, but I had recorded it and actually got 111 111 126 and then a 13+ digit number. I say 13 plus, because I cut off the video thinking it was simply repting itself. I watched a small video on how to count them, and went back out and that's when I got the 111 11 327. Does anyone know what these codes mean, and where to start?

 

You will never get a mix of two and three digit codes. It's one or the other. That's why I do not like counting flashes. Your truck should display three digit codes.

 

I am 110% sure that's what I got. I'll go out and do it again later.

 

But I did wake up to a flat this morning :/
I got an extra set of rims, and 2 tires with the truck, one tire has good tread but I think it leaks. The other is bald and appears to hold air. I found a nail half sideways in the tire, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was there for a while, as the last few days it looked a little low. And the spare is already on the truck. Always something

 

I unplugged the EGR, and for a short period it helped with the power. Possibly slightly with the miss.

 

Based on your results posted in your other thread you got System Pass 111/111 for the KEOE tests. Then you got Code 327 (EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.) from the stored code display. Thsi means sometime in the past the EGR position signal was below 0.2V. How many times and when are unknown. I suggest you clear the codes then drive the truck again. Re-run the KOEO/Stored Code display.

 

So there's a chance that this may actually work? Wow.

Also, one thing I was going to add last night, but forgot is if I unplug the egr valve, it sometimes helps for maybe 30 seconds.

 

Please forgive my ignorance, but I also have to know how to clear the codes

 

Best way is to start the KOEO test, when the light starts to flash remove the paperclip.

 

Ok thanks. I actually noticed something else today, I'm missing my coffee can! It has the larger one with the 2 large lines, but the literal can one is missing and the 2 lines are jumped. That's probably what's causing this. Isn't it?

 

That's the vacuum reservoir, and could definitely cause issues with EGR (and heater) function.

 

Lack of a vacuum reservoir or a leaky one typically cause Code 332 EGR opening not detected in the stored codes. Lack of sufficient vacuum under light load/hill/etc. closes the EGR when it is being commanded open. The reservoir supplies vacuum under these conditions.

 

I have GREAT news. I picked up a plastic EGR can at the local U-pull (off of a beautiful 96 that shouldn't have been there) but anyways, I put it on and proceeded to take a drive. And the difference... Is amazing. It took the little drive to "kick in" but it now idles smoother than a sleeping kittens pur.. I still have the slightest miss (I shouldn't worry about it) and a check engine light. I'll continue to look into it, but for now I'm happy. To give you an example, it was about 5% in how it ran, it's probably 95-98% now. So, yeah

I also picked up a cassette radio there and put it in.

 

EGR was causing a lot of problems for me too. Mine was a cracked line going to the valve. Also had the hose that goes to the evap come off, so beware of that, it comes off pretty easy.

 

So, after about a month the good news is the vacuum can did wonders (Dunno why I called it an EGR can) it's been working fine since.

Now I have a manifold leak, and because of the sensors it runs a bit rich, but it really doesn't matter to me... Runs fine now, and that's what matters. Truck also needs a clock spring, and the ABS & parking brake light won't go off (all 3 lights were removed when I bought the truck)

Anywho, that's for another day!