I belong to Forties Limited of Orange County and we have a show every year in June. The show was just a few weeks ago and man does it make me feel bad that my 40 is still in the garage when I am looking at so many beautiful 40s that others have brought to the show. Besides getting the 40 on the road I know that the 56 F100 that had to "go to it's room" for awhile is chomping at the bit to get out of the barn. A little paint and some final assembly and the truck will be on the road as well...happy days!

 

You are going to need sunglasses to look at that 40 when you get it done. So just keep thinking of how cool it will be rolling up in that bad boy at next years show, and it will be here b4 you know it.

 

I just wish I could have been able to afford this hobby when I was younger so I'd have more time to enjoy the ride..

 

Jimmy, the 40 Ford Day show was the Sunday after the F100 Western Nationals show and only 15 minutes down the freeway from each other. Fathers Day is when the LA Roadster show takes place in the same general area. Keep an eye on the schedule and maybe next year you can bring the bride down south for some good times. Lotsa bang for the travel buck and the Pickups Limited OC club always makes arrangements with a very nice hotel for some good room rates. If you are into drag racing the John Force Race Station is also nearby as well as the Edelbrock plant (PULOC had a nice tour through the facility as part of the Friday cruise this year). Good times...

 

Good morning guys,


Charlie it sounds as if you live in Hot Rod Heaven down there, Id love to see it but its a little far for this low budget amateur.


Scott thank you for the kind words, they keep me going.


Ross, I cant afford it now,LOL. But I'm sure having fun.


And a huge thank you for every body's help, tips, and encouragement, which allows guys like me to participate in this hobby.

 

So to understand a little better: I am going to start spraying the cab of the truck with epoxy paint and I just read someone waited a week to 'buff out' with 1000, 2000, and 3000 grit (which I knew) - so do you really wait a week? I have no problem doing that but my 'guy' does it like in the next day or so.... and I question his method.

 

If it's been baked you might be able to but the harder the paint the easier and at room temp you will still be able to leave fingerprints in few days way to soft for proper buffing on top of the fact that you will be moving the soft paint around . I f you have the ability to leave it a week that would be preferable

 

It totally depends on the brand, type of paint, and drying conditions. Some you can buff after 4 hours, some might be a week.
The paint manufacturer should have guidelines on this.

Is it truly epoxy paint or a catalyzed urethane?

 

Hi Ed I am just a novice with paint so I will leave an answer you can count on to the pros. That said I do know it all depends on what type of paint you are using. I used acrylic enamel with hardener which from what I have read it is not the best paint to cut and buff, many say you cant. I have done it b4 but only after waiting a over month of letting it sit in the summer sun and it worked ok. This time I'm just doing a small area (tail gate) and I used a little a little extra hardener so I may try to just tape off the edges and clean and buff the panels, after a week or two in the sun. Best of luck with your paint, If I can do it you can do it. Just continue to ask questions and do your homework. "EDIT" I must have been typing the same time as TINMAN, He is one of the pros I mentioned so whatever he sez is sound advice.

 

I believe it will be acrylic enamel with hardener BUT since we are in PHX, I know the temps will dry that sucker up.
Like I mentioned, I have zero problems waiting a week to do the cut and buff, just wanted to see what every one else was doing.

 

Alot of these new paints can be buffed within a few days. If you wait too long it could be concrete to buff. Don't use 3m buffing compounds. It my professional experiences, Menzerna 400 heavy cut compound is far better for much less money.

 

Nice work Jim.

 

Jimmy, may I hijack for just a minute?



To the pro's replying in this thread: I will sand down to original paint but have a few random spots down to metal. To cover in one consistent base coat I was advised to use "sealer" type primer, but have also read that epoxy primer will work the same.


What are your thoughts? Advantages of either?

Thank you.

 

You need to use a primer that is designed for use over bare metal , a sealer is meant to be used wet on wet which means you have a limited time in which to topcoat or you will have to sand I believe all sealers are this way and many primers can be used this way as per manufacturers instructions . If you don't need any filling properties you can use an erosol etch primer on your bare spots . Are you using basecoat ( solvent or waterborne ) or a single stage of some sort and what color ?

 

Will be solvent bc/cc. I appreciate the advice, I had not hear the "wet/wet for sealer" constraint, nor did I know I'd have to sand the sealer, thought you could just top coat with high build of needed(which it will) then base coat.