My truck has over 300K on it and still using the factory boots. See boost in the mid 20's pretty regular.

 

Ditto, mine are original with 350k+ and last time I was towing the gooseneck with 10k+ I was pulling hills with 30psi..... now they may not last there forever, but for now they are holding up...

 

i only replace them when the blow.
or with the case of the plenum boots, they both got replaced when i had the spyder off because that is a pain in the asterisk to remove. so best to do what can be done while it is already off.

 

I upgraded my turbo and injectors, so I went with more robust boots.

 

i also replaced with riff raff boots, cost less than ford and better quality.
i have replaced all but the passenger side inter cooler boot, one day that one is going to let loose, but for now it is still holding. the new boot is sitting in the back seat, but i just don't have the ambition to remove the battery and battery tray to put the new one in.

 

It's much easier than that for me with Stinky. I can reach the boot without removing the battery tray, but the first removal is more stubborn than the subsequent ones. I use an uber-long extension for the socket. The only video I have posted so far is the driver side, but the same goes for the passenger side.

 

Thanks for all the input. It only does the loud whistle when im pulling a load and when it down shifts with the fan clutch engaged. If it down shifts without the fan clutch its normal. I took a video of it doing it today. Notice when it shfts back to 2000 rpm it quits the whistling and fan surges. Hopefully someone will know what this is off the video. Once again thank you for all your help. I just recieved my 6637 NAPA filter and will be installing it tomorrow. Hers the link to the video

 

I am thinking that is a combo of the wheel hitting the housing and that is what is causing it to slow / surge. And maybe some regular turbo surge too?

Have you pulled the intake and checked for shaft play and damage to the wheel?

A turbo rebuild with a WW2 or SPX may be in order.

I could be wrong, I have not heard a boost leak whistle to compare the two, I am sure someone else will have some other input here soon.

 

That sounds like the compressor wheel is hitting the housing, have you removed the intake to see the comp wheel and feel if it has any in or out play?

 

i agree with the other guys, that is not a boost leak, it sounds like a bad turbo.

 

Why do I only hear it when the outsude temp is hot and pulling a load. I pull a load when its cold out with no issues. With no load hot or cold outside it never makes a noise. I have not check anything yet I just got the parts together to make a boost pressure check gauge. I will do both and let you know what I find. I really hope it's not a bad turbo. $$$$

 

Its not expensive at all to rebuild them, and arnt that difficult to rebuild. Your stressing the turbo more with a load (more constant boost) than empty. And when cold, the colder air from out side somewhat compensates for the turbo to run cooler.

 

I pulled the intake hose off the turbo. I can spin the wheel with my fingers it spins really smooth and I can't feel any play in it side to side or up and down. But I did not separate the housing. Should I do that too or would I notice the play through the inlet. I've never messed with the turbo before so I don't know what to expect but I'm not scared to try. I've got a new wheel ordered for it so when that comes in I will go further into it. Would it be a good idea for me to order a rebuild kit for the turbo while I'm changing the wheel? I really don't know how involved the rebuild is or if I need it with the milage I have 295000.

This might be a dumb question but the fan clutch wouldn't have anything to do with the loud whistle would it? When it down shifts and the fan clutch doesn't kick in it doesn't whistle either. Just seems weird.

 

Check spturboost.com their kit are great and really affordable, have any questions speak with Kevin he will direct you in the right direction.

 

Its really hard to tell from the video, but it really sounds like the fan clutch isn't holding when it tried to engage. Could it be trying to engage and causing the belt to slip at higher RPM? If you looked at the turbo and the wheel isn't hitting the housing and doesn't have any slop in it, I think I would be taking a good look at the fan clutch and accessory drive system next.