Switching to 4:30 gears tomorrow
#46
07-25-2016, 06:30 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any updates on performance yet OP and others on the thread? Just wondering as I'm thinking about getting a set of 4.30s installed into my truck for awhile now. You posting is the latest one and actually one of the few pulling the trigger on them too! Pretty much everyone I called in the area were either outrageously overpriced like $2800 plus another $500 for a tuner or didn't know what I wanted. Ironically a Ford dealer. They actually thought I wanted a Multi point inspection on the vehicle! I called a "speed" shop, the guy on the phone said we don't work on the drive train, just handle bolt on parts and tuners. DO I want to buy a tuner instead? LOL
However, I talked to a guy I use from time to time, he said over the phone. He would figure out a price to charge and it is easier for me if you bring the parts needed. Nitro Gears as a complete set for $1200. His prices are usually pretty reasonable and the work is excellent. If he brings back a good number, gears will be ordered up. He asked why I wanted to regear and I was pulling down a house. I just said just pulling the house down the road better. He laughed and said it would do that too. He would have an estimate to me on Monday.
For those who are wondering, yes a Tuner is in the budget but I will be supporting those who support here like 5 star
So OP, inquiring minds want to know what your verdict is.
However, I talked to a guy I use from time to time, he said over the phone. He would figure out a price to charge and it is easier for me if you bring the parts needed. Nitro Gears as a complete set for $1200. His prices are usually pretty reasonable and the work is excellent. If he brings back a good number, gears will be ordered up. He asked why I wanted to regear and I was pulling down a house. I just said just pulling the house down the road better. He laughed and said it would do that too. He would have an estimate to me on Monday.
For those who are wondering, yes a Tuner is in the budget but I will be supporting those who support here like 5 star
So OP, inquiring minds want to know what your verdict is.
#47
07-25-2016, 09:00 PM
That's odd. If they fit I would definitely install them, keeps all that crap out of your axle tube. Is your truck used?
Mines a 2012 and had the outdated (Faulty) axle tube seal, which did come apart. Used a shop vac to suck out the axle tubes. However I didn't open up the pumpkin so you could really flush your housing.
#48
07-25-2016, 09:34 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NWFL
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's odd. If they fit I would definitely install them, keeps all that crap out of your axle tube. Is your truck used?
Mines a 2012 and had the outdated (Faulty) axle tube seal, which did come apart. Used a shop vac to suck out the axle tubes. However I didn't open up the pumpkin so you could really flush your housing.
Mines a 2012 and had the outdated (Faulty) axle tube seal, which did come apart. Used a shop vac to suck out the axle tubes. However I didn't open up the pumpkin so you could really flush your housing.
#49
07-25-2016, 09:45 PM
Mines also a fleet (Oil field) truck, worked on a handful of them but never seen one without axle tube seals. Maybe 2014 they did something different, or at some point someone took them out?
First thing I did when I got mine was rebuild the entire front end (Minus U Joints and Axle tube seals) because I ordered the wrong U Joints. Just did it last week because one of them was completely seized, along with a new leveling kit. Just trying to keep it from anymore death wobble haha
First thing I did when I got mine was rebuild the entire front end (Minus U Joints and Axle tube seals) because I ordered the wrong U Joints. Just did it last week because one of them was completely seized, along with a new leveling kit. Just trying to keep it from anymore death wobble haha
#50
07-25-2016, 09:48 PM
Looking over the picture of your axle shafts again, it appears you do have outer axle seals, however they are still on the shafts! Could still be the old outdated version.
Looks like the same ones in this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...axle-seal.html
Looks like the same ones in this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...axle-seal.html
#51
07-26-2016, 12:01 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NWFL
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can't explain it. I need to clean up the rust on the shaft before I put it back in the axle with the outer seal in there or it will just tear up the rubber.
Some other interesting things of note:
The carrier fell out when I pulled the caps off. It was definately loose and the backlash was way more than .005-.008 that the shop manual calls for. I'd say it's even more than what Nitro calls for which is .006 to .010. There are witness marks on the caps and housing surface. As if someone has rebuilt it before. However I don't think this is the case. There is a date of manufacture punched into the housing that matches the sticker on the axle as well so I think those marks are from Dana. It's a "C".
I ended up setting the backlash to .006 dead on. The factory pinion bearing space was dead on for depth.
The nitro gear set comes with a crush sleeve and pinion preload shims. I'm assuming because nitro makes the install master kit for both types of ring gear sets. I have no idea where to start with the preload shim thickness?
Some other interesting things of note:
The carrier fell out when I pulled the caps off. It was definately loose and the backlash was way more than .005-.008 that the shop manual calls for. I'd say it's even more than what Nitro calls for which is .006 to .010. There are witness marks on the caps and housing surface. As if someone has rebuilt it before. However I don't think this is the case. There is a date of manufacture punched into the housing that matches the sticker on the axle as well so I think those marks are from Dana. It's a "C".
I ended up setting the backlash to .006 dead on. The factory pinion bearing space was dead on for depth.
The nitro gear set comes with a crush sleeve and pinion preload shims. I'm assuming because nitro makes the install master kit for both types of ring gear sets. I have no idea where to start with the preload shim thickness?
#52
07-28-2016, 02:07 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NWFL
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Done, I did not install the outer or inner axle tube seals. The inner axle tube seals were a different design on my truck. first test drive today, did 10 miles for initial break in. Had a driveshaft vibration because I didn't get the shaft centered on the pinion flange so it was flush with the flange. That was the only issue. Updated the ECU with the 5star tuner from 3.73 87 Daily tow to the 4.30 87 daily tow tune.
First impression: sure gets to 6th gear fast.
Going to give it an easy 500 miles over this weekend
First impression: sure gets to 6th gear fast.
Going to give it an easy 500 miles over this weekend
#53
07-28-2016, 04:37 PM
#54
07-28-2016, 07:55 PM
#55
07-28-2016, 09:59 PM
I would give you some reps Defekiton but I need to spread so more love around. Great job. Even though I am technical and ok mechanically, I wish I had the capability to do my own gear change. Mainly space and time which I really have neither.
I got my quotes, as much as I would like to do this, the minister of finance gave the eye to the dollar amounts. The quote from the 4 wheel place was right around $2900. The place that wants be to bring the parts said his book is calling for 14 hours. His labor rate works out to be about 1400 plus tax. So I am right in the area of 26-2900 bucks to shell out for a gear swap. If I was able to keep the price around 20-2200, I think I could live it. And the dealerships, never got back to me so they much be too busy. LOL
I got my quotes, as much as I would like to do this, the minister of finance gave the eye to the dollar amounts. The quote from the 4 wheel place was right around $2900. The place that wants be to bring the parts said his book is calling for 14 hours. His labor rate works out to be about 1400 plus tax. So I am right in the area of 26-2900 bucks to shell out for a gear swap. If I was able to keep the price around 20-2200, I think I could live it. And the dealerships, never got back to me so they much be too busy. LOL
#56
07-29-2016, 11:05 AM
I'm considering the 4.30 also; but will have my dealer do the work. Since I am out of warranty, they will install complete kit (yes, higher cost) AND give me a 3 year warranty on the axles. Based on my research it should, as noted above, give me a little better effort on the hills when we pull the fiver.
#57
07-29-2016, 11:09 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NWFL
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would give you some reps Defekiton but I need to spread so more love around. Great job. Even though I am technical and ok mechanically, I wish I had the capability to do my own gear change. Mainly space and time which I really have neither.
I got my quotes, as much as I would like to do this, the minister of finance gave the eye to the dollar amounts. The quote from the 4 wheel place was right around $2900. The place that wants be to bring the parts said his book is calling for 14 hours. His labor rate works out to be about 1400 plus tax. So I am right in the area of 26-2900 bucks to shell out for a gear swap. If I was able to keep the price around 20-2200, I think I could live it. And the dealerships, never got back to me so they much be too busy. LOL
I got my quotes, as much as I would like to do this, the minister of finance gave the eye to the dollar amounts. The quote from the 4 wheel place was right around $2900. The place that wants be to bring the parts said his book is calling for 14 hours. His labor rate works out to be about 1400 plus tax. So I am right in the area of 26-2900 bucks to shell out for a gear swap. If I was able to keep the price around 20-2200, I think I could live it. And the dealerships, never got back to me so they much be too busy. LOL
I'm an engineer by trade, so this is second nature. I lack time to do this sort of tedious work that demands attention and cannot be rushed, that's where my frustration came from during the job. I have four kids, fulltime job and 1099 sidework.
#58
07-29-2016, 11:32 AM
I wish I were that slick a salesman.
#59
07-29-2016, 11:39 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NWFL
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think he may have underestimated the job, but I also know he doesn't normally do work on 3/4-1ton trucks. It's primarily drag/restomod stuff.
#60
07-29-2016, 11:44 AM
I know most people might know this already, but when it comes to break in just remember it's best to vary speed and take breaks on occasion to let the gears cool, so you're work-hardening the gear teeth. Some people think they can just go hit 65 on the highway and make a road trip of it. It's better to drive for little spurts the first few times, maybe 10 to 20 minutes each, and then stop to get a sandwich or whatever and let it cool, and after the first 100 to 200 miles drive mostly normally just no long trips or aggressive acceleration. Get 500 to 1000 miles under the belt, and then if you're towing or hauling heavy, do the same kind of thing since you're working the material it a lot harder, but maybe just a couple cooldowns and go from there.
Really, most people could just hook up and go, and it might be OK. But I tend to be **** about break-in, as doing so helps eliminate a lot of variables that turn into problems down the road.
Doesn't matter on the front unless it's something you're really flogging often and/or hard. You're usually just using 4WD in slower-moving offroad situations where you're not pulling 17k worth of gooseneck at 80 mph 
Really, most people could just hook up and go, and it might be OK. But I tend to be **** about break-in, as doing so helps eliminate a lot of variables that turn into problems down the road.
