1995 F250 RCLB with 5.8. Think it's a 10.25 rear axle.

E-brakes stuck engaged on both rear drums. As well as both drums being frozen to axle. Can't get drum off.

Truck will move with throttle, but they're tight enough that it holds position on an incline. While driving, truck shakes, rattles pretty badly.

I tried massaging with a hammer. Got a ton of rust knocked loose, some of it almost 1/4" thick. Pretty sure the drums are shot. I miss Texas trucks, no rust!

Think I'll try a HF slide hammer next. Any other ideas or tricks? Need to get truck on the road

 

Spray the opening between the axle and the rear drum where the pads would make contact with some type of penetrating oil.

Ive had to really massage them in the past, but they were going in the trash along with the pads anyway. Didn't care how they came off!

May try using a MAPP torch and heat an area and give it a good smack with a sledge hammer.

 

If you're replacing the E-Brake cables, take some bolt cutters (or cutoff wheel) and cut them next to the backing plate, cleaner the cut the better ... That should help there.

Then take a screwdriver or small bar and go through the adjuster slot and gently pry the adjuster up on one end (or the other) and see if you can dislodge it ... That should release the brakes from the drum then all you have to fight is the drum off the axle.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

That's genius. The cables are in great shape though.

Guess I'll get some more Kroil or PB Blaster and keep trying with a slide hammer

I used an entire can of PB Blaster getting the rims off. Lugs hadn't been touched in god knows how many years.

 

Bigger hammer

 

^^^^this^^^^
the E brake cables may look good, but if the e brake is stuck on the cables are bad internally.
the inner cable is plastic coated steel. what happens is over time the plastic coating wears and starts to separate from the cable. then it binds with the outer sheath and holds the brakes partially engaged.
cut them flush at the backing plate and replace them.

once you get the cables cut they should release enough to remove the drums.

 

The cables (sheath) look good on the outside but is the cable actually frozen inside? As stated, back off the star wheel adjusters, spray Blaster around the wheel studs and hub. Sometimes a little heat from the MAPP torch helps. I have had to break the drums with the BFH to get them off but they were thinner mini-van and car drums.

I'd be thinking about replacing all three cables, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and all the hardware.

 

Most of the time you can just take a pneumatic hammer with a straight blunt punch and hammer between each lug and the drums will come right off before you get all the way around.

That has worked for others on here with the same problem.

 

The cables look good externally, and they slide in the sheaths by hand when I mess with them at the "T" on drivers side.

That's why I think the mechanism under drum is frozen. But if I can't get any progress, I'll just chop them

Gonna be under there with a sawzall anyways cutting the muffler and rusted out tailpipe off.

 

I suspect you'll have better luck breaking them off then Sawzall'ing them off ... Probably eat up the Sawzall blades.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Sawzall is for exhaust and E take

I have a BFH to beat up those drums

 

i have found when the drums get rust welded on, that heat and penetrating oil work real good before whomping on the drum with a BFH

 

Penetrating fluid is one of those where more is not better ... Any more than wet does nothing but waste penetrating fluid.

Penetrating fluid takes time not quantity!

Personally, I don't like spray penetrating fluids, all it does is get everywhere doing no more than a few drops making it wet would.

As one of my mentors used to say ... A little dab'l do, frequently!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I sprayed all 4 rims with PB Blaster several times over 2 days. Just had to wrench them off...incidentally sheared 2 lugs. Whoops. Luckily they're easy to replace

Did more hammering today, and used the access hole on backing plate to manual loosen the tensioner. Didn't help any. They're still STUCK!

Going to pick up a map torch tomorrow. Looks like replacement parts are gonna run about $150. Unreal

 

Yea but to try and put a positive spin on it at least you know everything will be new and won't have to touch it (minus the occasional clean and adjust) for years.