Just maul the drums apart already ...

 

put never seize on the axle flange where the drum will touch, and a dab on each wheel stud. this will make it much easier to remove the wheels and drums the next time you have to do it in 15 years.

 

I've never had much luck with just a dab of Never Seize, I find that just a dab doesn't spread and cover all ... I find completely coating (like painting) with a very thin layer works best!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

that is what i call a dab.
cover it so no bare metal is showing.

 

Awesome ...

I see many folks just putting a dab on the end of the bolts and that does not work ... So I like to make it clear.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

My left rear wheel on my 1988 F250 won't turn unless I drive the truck. I set the emergency brake last week and drove the truck until I noticed the smell of brake lining and the wheel began to smoke.

I've turned the adjustment wheel up many turns (it won't turn down). I can see a loose spring or part of a spring through the adjustment hole.

My plan is to proceed as follows until the drum is free or turns.
1. Cut the ER cable at back plate
2. Drill out the pins that hold the brake shoes
3. Unbolt the wheel cylinder and brake line

Once the wheel turns, I'll address removing the drum with PB blaster, heat, tapping, etc.

Thanks for comments and or further guidance/advice.

Oldforddy

 

interesting approach. if i remember correctly, the brake return springs pass behind the axle flange, so i am not sure the whole works will come off, as you are planning, but i am curious to see how it turns out. good luck.

 

like a sledge hammer!

 

I ended up removing the axle from the truck and using a sledge. lots and lots of hammering to get damn things off. hands down the worst brake job I've ever gotten stuck working on

I did cut the e-brake cable since they were frozen. sadly the whole mechanism had frozen interal to the drum so nothing worked

 

I would be one of them that this worked for.

If you don't have air tools, try a metal rod and a hammer.

Hope the input helps.

John

 

It's been two months, but I did get the drum off. The sledge broke the drum loose, but the broken spring jammed the adjuster. Once I drilled out the pins from the back, the drum gave. After that, I was able to work it off.

Thanks,
Oldforddy

 

This ^^^^^^ is exactly why we rotate our own tires, or do the winter/summer tire swap ourselves. What would take 10 minutes in a shop takes 2-3 hours for us, because we pull both drums and inspect everything, give the non-friction moving bits a light coat of Fluid Film, make sure there's no ridge/lip on the drum from pad wear, etc. And remove and lube the caliper pins up front, etc. Learned the hard way, had a couple drums rust-freeze to the hub and had to "ring the bell" with a sledge hammer.