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Turning front wheels by hand while jacked up

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  #16  
Old 09-25-2016, 06:44 PM
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you have hub bearing assemblies. there is no nut to loosen.
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:07 PM
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Thank you. I replaced those last year. Wasn't sure if he meant the spindle nut or not. Wasn't sure if they could bind things up
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:13 PM
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Please note that this is with the front wheels off the ground, in P, not running and in 2wd.

Also, as stated earlier when I put it in 4wd I hear the typical clunk and you can clearly tell it is then locked in by both sound and feel.


it has been like this for months....probably longer.
probably why I get 13 miles to a gallon.


I just can't figure out what it would be.
any value in changing on the two solenoids on the fire wall or is that just wasting money?
 
  #19  
Old 09-26-2016, 04:10 PM
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Bump
Stumped
 
  #20  
Old 09-26-2016, 04:14 PM
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remove the locking hub. then see if the axle still spins. i bet it will not. this will prove the locking hub is bad and staying locked.
 
  #21  
Old 09-26-2016, 07:01 PM
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Does a truck this year have one? I thought it was just a straight hub.
 
  #22  
Old 09-26-2016, 11:25 PM
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This generation of F-150 w/4WD has a dog-clutch on one axle shaft inside the front axle assembly. When it is disconnected, one axle spins free (still connected 100% permanently to its wheel), the other wheel, when spun by hand or road contact, turns its axle shaft, which in turn spins the spiders in the diff, so there will be more drag and more mass effect. You can see which axle half gets the disconnect by looking where the vac motor and its link goes to. I think its the passenger side...

For the next-design 2004 (not 2004 Heritage, which is the 2003 design), they went back to dual disconnects to reduce overall drag when in 2WD. Went full circle, probably due to gas prices, and EPA corporate full economy.
 
  #23  
Old 09-27-2016, 05:37 AM
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So after all this this may be normal?
About ready to hit the dealer.
 
  #24  
Old 09-27-2016, 04:07 PM
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oh crap, i was not aware you were dealing with a F150. i thought you had a superduty.
 
  #25  
Old 09-27-2016, 06:07 PM
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Thanks Tom.....now that my truck is in 37 pieces
 
  #26  
Old 09-27-2016, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Torky2
This generation of F-150 w/4WD has a dog-clutch on one axle shaft inside the front axle assembly. When it is disconnected, one axle spins free (still connected 100% permanently to its wheel), the other wheel, when spun by hand or road contact, turns its axle shaft, which in turn spins the spiders in the diff, so there will be more drag and more mass effect. You can see which axle half gets the disconnect by looking where the vac motor and its link goes to. I think its the passenger side...

For the next-design 2004 (not 2004 Heritage, which is the 2003 design), they went back to dual disconnects to reduce overall drag when in 2WD. Went full circle, probably due to gas prices, and EPA corporate full economy.
Sooooo WTH could be wrong?
Or is this normal?
Thx
 
  #27  
Old 09-27-2016, 08:52 PM
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Looks like I should jack one side at a time and try!!!!!?

From F150.net

Regarding the binding feeling when spinning the passenger side wheel when raised. I don’t believe this is an issue. The differential is not centered, the passenger side axle/CV is longer. I had raised the truck under the frame cross member, both wheels in the air. The driver side has no binding, the passenger side does. I believe with the truck raised this way, the CV joints on the right are fully extended at a more severe angle. This is why it binds when spun. When I jack the truck under the normal jack point the passenger side does not bind when spun
 
  #28  
Old 09-30-2016, 12:03 AM
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If I were conducting the experiment, I would put jacks or jackstands under both lower control arms at the same time, such that the front wheels just clear the ground, with wheels pointed straight ahead. This will put the front suspension at regular ride height, so both CV half-shafts will be running straight inline while you spin the wheels by hand. This will take any CV joint angular losses out of the picture. Just like working on a FWD car front end.
 
  #29  
Old 09-30-2016, 07:23 PM
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Apparently it has been two years but only 8k miles. Can't be shot at the same time. Can they?
 
  #30  
Old 10-02-2016, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Torky2
If I were conducting the experiment, I would put jacks or jackstands under both lower control arms at the same time, such that the front wheels just clear the ground, with wheels pointed straight ahead. This will put the front suspension at regular ride height, so both CV half-shafts will be running straight inline while you spin the wheels by hand. This will take any CV joint angular losses out of the picture. Just like working on a FWD car front end.
Driver-side spin slightly easier. Maybe this is normal?

OK, how do you post a video?

 


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