It's already July thread........
#511
07-27-2016, 10:18 PM
Evening guys...
Double-flares can be a real bugger...
Not many people do. I've done lots of them on our race cars and the kit-cars I've built. Even with the best tools (I use Rigid) I still have one every now and again that refuses to seal up. Dave and some of the other guys have probably had similar experience. I think sometimes it might be due to a hard spot in the line..
Not many people do. I've done lots of them on our race cars and the kit-cars I've built. Even with the best tools (I use Rigid) I still have one every now and again that refuses to seal up. Dave and some of the other guys have probably had similar experience. I think sometimes it might be due to a hard spot in the line..
#514
07-28-2016, 05:14 AM
#515
07-28-2016, 05:28 AM
I think I got the lines fixed. I did do what you said Randy.....sorta. I ended up cutting and flaring a new line in place of the old rusty one. I started with the one that went between the rear drums and ended up by the front drivers wheel by the time I finished. Note to self don't wiggle rusty brake lines!
#518
07-28-2016, 06:07 AM
NiCopp brake lines are some of the best. They flare easily without work hardening in the flaring process. Run of the mill steel brake tubing from NAPA is not bad, but you can easily overwork the flare. The OEM tubing is some of the toughest stuff along with stainless steel tubing.
My GT40 has all stainless lines that are double-flared from the mfgr and I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that they seal up. If not, I will cut the flares off and use a 37 degree single-flare with AN backer sleeves and fittings. That's an expensive solution but certainly acceptable.
#520
07-28-2016, 06:46 AM
#521
07-28-2016, 07:11 AM
#522
07-28-2016, 07:29 AM
Fleet Owner
Good morning guys.
#523
07-28-2016, 07:54 AM
#524
07-28-2016, 08:33 AM
#525
07-28-2016, 09:13 AM
