94 250 7.3 turbo power but no crank
#1
94 250 7.3 turbo power but no crank
Ok so here's the deal. Bare with me because I'm not completely mechanically savy. So my clutch went out turns out I needed a new master cylinder which I replaced as well as the slave cylinder because i thought I might just need both. Took me awhile since those damn roll pens suck to get out, but I'm feeling pretty proud of myself. Go to start the truck lights work, wait for the "wait to start" light goes off turn key and nothing! Long story short, I remebered I arched a wire that runs just above the master cylinder to the starter solenoid on the passenger fender. So to test because I don't have a multimeter at this point, I decided to by pass and see if the starter would turn. It did. So I'm thinking that's my issue by the 13.99 part replace it get it hooked back up exactly how it was before. Turn the key and nothing! I am trying to rule the starter out as much as i can since I really don't want to spend the 160 bucks of I can avoid it. Is there anything else I should check to see if that could be the problem before I start spending more money?
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It's been a while since I installed a new clutch master cylinder, but the new one should have come with a new push rod that links the clutch peddle drop arm to the master cylinder. The clutch safety switch mounts over that pushrod. When the clutch peddle is depressed the switch presses against the firewall, closing the switch to complete the starting circuit between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If you have cruse control, that switch interrupts the circuit to disconnect the cruse, if it is being used, when the clutch is depressed.
#6
Ok so I did find the switch, and that was bypassed and the wire had come out so that was certainly part of the problem. The other part is I have a 12 gauge wire running from the solenoid to across the firewall to a relay above the master cylinder then into the firewall by the steering column. It's not connected to anything. My guess would be it goes to the clutch safety switch, but before I start plugging random wires places just want to be sure .
#7
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#8
Hmm I believe you only need to connect two wire in the clutch safety switch to bypass the solenoid. I can't think of what that other wire is off the top of my head so it may still play a role though.
My clutch safety switch was bypassed with the donor truck I purchased. They only had one jumper wire like yours to bypass that switch. I also don't remember which two wires need to be jumped, but it could be you put the jumper wire in the wrong spot on that connector.
My clutch safety switch was bypassed with the donor truck I purchased. They only had one jumper wire like yours to bypass that switch. I also don't remember which two wires need to be jumped, but it could be you put the jumper wire in the wrong spot on that connector.
#11
That is a circuit breaker that you have pictured. The previous owner must have used the starter relay for a power source for something he added in the cab. (CB radio?) If that red wire is hooked to the large post on the starter relay that has several other wires on it, Do not plug that red wire into the clutch switch, as that wire is hot at all times. If prior to installing the new clutch master, you could start the truck without the clutch being depressed, then the clutch safety switch was bypassed. If this is he case, you probably have the wrong two wires jumped.
#12
That is a circuit breaker that you have pictured. The previous owner must have used the starter relay for a power source for something he added in the cab. (CB radio?) If that red wire is hooked to the large post on the starter relay that has several other wires on it, Do not plug that red wire into the clutch switch, as that wire is hot at all times. If prior to installing the new clutch master, you could start the truck without the clutch being depressed, then the clutch safety switch was bypassed. If this is he case, you probably have the wrong two wires jumped.
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