Wheel hub assembly purchase?
#1
06-06-2016, 07:24 PM
Wheel hub assembly purchase?
What I've learned so far with my roaring issue is.. my front tires have a leaks, I have a pinion seal leak and feel confident that the roaring is coming from the front. After the alignment the roaring was only a low droning because tire pressure was up, but after losing air pressure the lion is back. Also, my auto hubs will go in 4x4 and that's probably why the roaring is louder because I'm driving around in 4x4 because the auto hubs have locked into 4x4.
I'm going to rotate my tires and see what happems. Do you believe with bad front hubs, that will cause the hubs to stay locked/activate? I'm 94% all vaccum lines are good because I switch to 4x4 inside the truck. I know I could purchase mile markers and that will eliminate the auto hub issue, but I want the convenience inside the X to switch from 4x4.
For the guys that have purchased the whole hub assembly. .what did you use and from where? As always, thank you so much!
I'm going to rotate my tires and see what happems. Do you believe with bad front hubs, that will cause the hubs to stay locked/activate? I'm 94% all vaccum lines are good because I switch to 4x4 inside the truck. I know I could purchase mile markers and that will eliminate the auto hub issue, but I want the convenience inside the X to switch from 4x4.
For the guys that have purchased the whole hub assembly. .what did you use and from where? As always, thank you so much!
#3
06-06-2016, 11:57 PM
I'm in the middle of a huge front end rebuild. Went back with stock motorcraft auto hubs because I too am a fan of the 4x4 ESOF. One easy way to see if your hubs are locked is to watch the u joints and front driveshaft while driving. If they are unlocked then it shouldn't be turning. A GoPro or someone else just walking alongside can see it easily. You can also just jack up one of the front wheels and spin it. If the front driveshaft also spins then your auto hubs are either in lock or shot.
#5
06-07-2016, 08:06 AM
Lead Driver
as well as the axles. just reach in grab the u joint yoke and rotate. if the hub is locked the axle will not turn with the tire on the ground. if unlocked it will turn with a firm grip.
#6
06-07-2016, 12:02 PM
#7
06-07-2016, 12:05 PM
I'm in the middle of a huge front end rebuild. Went back with stock motorcraft auto hubs because I too am a fan of the 4x4 ESOF. One easy way to see if your hubs are locked is to watch the u joints and front driveshaft while driving. If they are unlocked then it shouldn't be turning. A GoPro or someone else just walking alongside can see it easily. You can also just jack up one of the front wheels and spin it. If the front driveshaft also spins then your auto hubs are either in lock or shot.
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#8
06-07-2016, 12:07 PM
I did that and hubs was locked in. The joys of rebuilding the front end..replace a worn part..only to find two more.
#10
06-07-2016, 01:16 PM
Am I wrong about this?
#11
06-07-2016, 01:50 PM
Cargo Master
If you go to manual hubs, you just have to lock them in on a day you think you will need them. If it is snowing out, I lock them in so I can just switch to 4x4 as needed. If I am taking the truck off road, same reason. But I like manual because I unlock them for highway driving and I know I am not turning extra parts.
Here is some info on the hubs:
Here is some info on the hubs:
Here are 2 articles that explain how to remove and disassemble the hubs to clean and service them.
2004 F250 ESOF Hub Service
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...l#post14810028
As for the play in the shaft, there is a needle bearing inside the unit bearing that the axle shaft rides on. That is probably toast. There are also axle shaft seals that are probably worn out and need replaced. This post may help with that: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16123971
All the parts I ordered are in the bottom of that post with prices and where I got them from.
Additional Info
Needle bearings: 2004 F250 Needle Bearing Replacement
Seals: 2004 F250 Ball Joint Replacement
If you are tackling this job and you live in the rust belt, be prepared to order new ABS sensors. The rubber o-ring on them seizes to the unit bearing and the typically just rip apart. You can get new ones from Rock Auto or if you want to just replace the unit bearings (a bit more pricey) they come with sensors installed.
Finally, if you are reusing the old bearings, get one of these adapters from RiffRaff Diesel. Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting for Ford 7.3L 99-04
This allows you to grease the non-serviceable unit bearing. It is cheap insurance to prevent them from wearing out prematurely. Use a good synthetic NGL1 or 2 grease. I prefer AMSOIL.
2004 F250 Front End Service
Hope this helps
2004 F250 ESOF Hub Service
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...l#post14810028
As for the play in the shaft, there is a needle bearing inside the unit bearing that the axle shaft rides on. That is probably toast. There are also axle shaft seals that are probably worn out and need replaced. This post may help with that: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16123971
All the parts I ordered are in the bottom of that post with prices and where I got them from.
Additional Info
Needle bearings: 2004 F250 Needle Bearing Replacement
Seals: 2004 F250 Ball Joint Replacement
If you are tackling this job and you live in the rust belt, be prepared to order new ABS sensors. The rubber o-ring on them seizes to the unit bearing and the typically just rip apart. You can get new ones from Rock Auto or if you want to just replace the unit bearings (a bit more pricey) they come with sensors installed.
Finally, if you are reusing the old bearings, get one of these adapters from RiffRaff Diesel. Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting for Ford 7.3L 99-04
This allows you to grease the non-serviceable unit bearing. It is cheap insurance to prevent them from wearing out prematurely. Use a good synthetic NGL1 or 2 grease. I prefer AMSOIL.
2004 F250 Front End Service
Hope this helps
#12
06-07-2016, 01:59 PM
#13
06-07-2016, 02:04 PM
The hardest part for my swap to manual hubs was getting the originals to break loose and come off the stub shaft and out of the housing. The Warn's I threw on took all of 25 minutes, with the longest part being the spiral lock followed by the cap install purely because I didn't have my screw gun and was stuck with an allen wrench.
