Truck has started running out of fuel at 1/8-1/4 tank of gas. I have read many things about this and was hoping I wouldn't have to worry about it. But my time apparently my card is up and have to plan on doing this. What parts do I needed to order to prepare for this fix? Have to get it fixed before I burn my fuel pump up.

 

I presume this is a diesel, and we are talking the Hutch mod.
The inexpensive way.
A 5/16 metal brake line (cut one end off).
A 3/8 metal brake line (cut one end off).
A compression fitting of each size.
A 33972 fuel filter.
Enough 30R9 fuel line to go from tank to pump.
About 8 clamps to double clamp each end of the flexable line.

Go to Guzzles site and follow the directions.
(Do NOT replace the umbrella, use the 3/8 brake line).

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/hutch.php

 

So being that it said it modifies it to not be making air bubbles, would that make it so I would not need an FRx and the works? I thought it was supposed to take the air out of the fuel rails? Or am I just dumb? If I am tell me to shut up and I will move on

 

Has anybody used the strictly diesel kit that was linked on guzzles site? I normally would get the parts together myself but I am crunched for time. So I was thinking of ordering the kit.

 

I used the Driven Diesel kit for the same reason your looking at it. It is a complete kit and worked well, I had no issues with. I have since swapped the Baldwin filter for the racor PS120 based on input from others. I really didn't have a problem with the Baldwin but I do prefer the clear bowl on the ps-120. Makes it easy to tell if you have air or dirt in the system.

 

People get really carried away with this mod...

All you need is a 3/8" compression union and a short piece of 3/8" tubing (I use alum because I have lots of short pieces leftover from doing veggie conversions). I put a 90* bend on the end so I can place it right on the bottom of the tank. Just cut the return hose in the middle of the bend and point it in the opposite direction of the new pickup.




Then, cut the flexible hose off the steel line just before the pump and install a WIX 33972 using about a foot if 30R9 5/16" fuel hose and (4) of the correct size fuel injection hose clamps. (NOT worm clamps!!!)




Do not make the mistake of trying to add filtration pre-pump!! You want no finer than a 50 micron filter here. It's only job is to protect the pump. Too much restriction pre-pump will kill fuel pumps.

 

The whole air intrusion thing is way overblown, but if you see bubbles in your WIX 33972 (or Racor PS120) - you can always do more...

The fuel enters the bottom of the factory filter bowl, directly below the return. The flow rate thru the return is several times the flow to the injectors, so if any air were present - it would rise and be drawn out the return. The fuel to the injectors must pass thru 2 layers of filter media and down to the bottom of the filter housing. It is naturally difficult for air to make this journey.

Of course, that is if air is present in the first place. I've done this mod as I described above to literally dozens of trucks. NONE of them had an air issue...

This renders the FRx totally unnecessary and maybe even worse by increasing the flow thru the filter media.

JMHO based on lots of experience fooling with fuel systems.

 

Way to go Jason. You can't just go along and make we feel like I am on the right road . Thank you very much for all your information. I have to look some more before I order. Does the kit that I listed above have the chance of being to much of a filter? I DO NOT want to burn up a fuel pump trying to fix the issue of burning up the fuel pump with low fuel. ��

 

How long have you had this kit installed? Time? Miles? Wondering about longevity?

 

There is no need for a kit. Get a 3/8" compression union and I'll send you a piece of tubing for the price of a stamp. Get a foot of 5/16" 30R9, (4) fuel injection hose clamps and WIX 33972 from oriellys or napa. This whole project costs under $20 doing it my way.

I've done several of these in one week before. Seriously, I've lost count of how many I've done exactly like this. Spend the money on a fuel pressure gauge instead of an over-priced kit.

The fuel pressure gauge is the most under rated gauge and is actually the most important one!!!

 

I appreciate all your advice Jason. Should have done this mod when I lived in Georgia and maybe could have talked you into guiding me through it . I will start getting everything around. Is the 30R9 stuff easily had at Autozone/OReillys or should I go to NAPA for something like that. I have seen the filter on EBay. They are going for like $10. Will get a couple. I have thought about a fuel pressure gauge. Where do I install the sensor for that gauge? If it's an easy place I might just go ahead and order it. Could take out my boost gauge and install it there.

 

Yep, we coulda knocked it out easy here!!

30R9 is 'fuel injection hose'. That, fuel injection hose clamps (see my pic) and WIX 33972 are at oriellys for sure. I've been paying about $8 each for the filters - with a little haggling.

The fuel pressure gauge sender installs in the filter housing. You'll need an adapter to go from ORB to NPT for sender.

If you look at where the 2 lines exit the bottom passenger side of filter, you'll see a plug behind them that faces the rear of the truck. This is the 'post filter' port you want to use.

Get a 4-gauge pod and sell your 3-gauge pod!!!

 

About 1.5 yrs, maybe 5k miles at most. Less the ps120 maybe the last 6 months or so. As for longevity, if you take away the filter you are talking about pre-bent tubing, hose and fittings for the most part. I actually have enough left over hose I think I could re-do it if needed.
I don't disagree that the kit isn't necessary, more of a convenience. I actually think most of the cost of it would be the spin on filter and housing, that in hind sight may not have been ideal on the suction side of the pump (there are differing opinions on this I have no data to support it either way).
If I were to do it over, I think I would opt to build my own kit and still include the PS 120 because I like that it is see through and a easily cleanable.

 

Here's a pic of a PS120 installed on one of my veggie conversions in case somebody wanted to know what they look like. I mount them horizontally like this for WVO so they are easier/less messy to change. I also put a valve on the inlet so it doesn't let the fuel fun out while servicing filter. I've also installed lots of these.



Fwiw, this is a 240 micron 'strainer'. Again, it's ONLY job is to protect the pump and in a normal world never needs to be cleaned/serviced!! Mounted vertically, it may collect some condensation over time - but unless you're pumping nasty crap in your tank the filter will never 'clog up'.

 

Hey Jason,
Are you using the push lock fittings with just standard hose. I had looked at them before I thought I needed to use Parker hose. Sure would make the jobs a lot easier.