I will post up pics of my current situation but long story short I bought a truck for 500 bucks. She seems to have been taken good care of for a good chunk of its life up until recentish. I bought it knowing it had issues, much to my surprise though it started and ran perfectly, drove up and down the road and shifted in all gears and even has fresh plugs wire cap rotors and front pads and just loads of potential but the head gasket is cooked. And I don't mean h hey it runs hot and I slowly lose coolant. I mean it puts quarts of water in the oil and has a James bone effect so good at my buddy's house we smoked out the highway from 30 feet away.

Anyways so I've voted at first to pull it apart and see if it was fixable. Got to looking around and noted on top of the timing cover there was what looked like a crack, Grabbed my brush cleaned off the rust, yep........Big crack.

So I'm calling this engine deadish. Now to save money I "want" to reuse my 302 that I've had from my other F-150, But I know its a little more than drop in and go. I know the PCM isn't a big deal, but the smog stuff is different than what I've ever seen, its got canisters on the drive side valve covers and pipes going into the exhaust right after the manifolds and all kinds of weird things that may have to get deleted, which I don't want in a truck I may be reselling. So I'm at a cross road. 302 or find another 351w thats good.

I'm just going stock with this beast I don't have time to do any mad stroker build with turbos or NOS as much fun as it would be. But I wouldn't mind either a junkyard engine or at least freshing this one up at the very worst
It did have water in the oil and I know it was run like that somewhat here and there so I'm worried it may of worn down some bearings during that time.

Any input is welcome.
Even swapping a 350 into the poor thing..........I'm joking I wouldn't dream of it.

Once again pictures of it and some of this stuff in the morning.
Thanks again.
Shadow.

 

It's pretty much just drop in. Just transfer the relevant smog equipment to the 302.

 

What about the cross pipe for the exhaust tubes? Can they be bent inwards or is it a cut and weld situation? Also the Dizzy in my 302 is one of the ones with the ignition module mounted on it, however the 351W does not have that. It has one on the fender well. Will it interchange or am I stuck getting a new dizzy?

 

The y-pipe has to be cut and welded. I believe there is ~1.5" difference in overall width.

Your thread title implies the truck and the donor 302 are both 1993 model year. Obviously the 302 is pre-1992. That means you need 1992 or later distributor to work with the existing ignition system. Be sure you get one with the correct distributor gear. There is difference in cam material for a flat tappet vs. a roller.

 

Based on your description of the smog system on the 351 it's not the original motor for the truck either it's from a HD truck. The good news is that it's functionally the same as what is found on the F150 engines so you can attach the plumbing to the crossover pipe on the back of the 5.0 and it'll work fine, or you can rearrange it to look like the F150 302 system, or just delete it all because if the stock cats are gone this system serves no purpose anyway.

Other things you need are a 50oz flexplate for whatever trans the truck has, ideally a 5.0 PCM for engine/trans combo, and the correct distributor for the EFI system in the truck. The worst thing you want to do with an engine swap is to start hacking the wiring harness it's always better to get the correct parts to make it plug and play, you can hot rod it later on down the road one it's proven to be a reliable driver.

 

I should of stated earlier in the thread that this is in fact an 90s 302. Always forgetting something with these darn cry for help threads . AKA pulled from a 90 F-150 in solid running order. Now In regards to the egr. Can I just leave the 302's egr in place and block off the egr tube on the passenger side manifold? How much hell am I gonna be in to get that nut loose though? Could I maybe cut and smash the pipe shut firm and leave it at that? As can be seen in one picture I am taking EVERYTHING that is good from the 351W and grafting it to this engine, I have an extra water pump I can use but other than that I got nothing bolted to the 302 except heads and intake and jank valve covers.






Yep. Thats a sign.








These are the tubes. I had started working on it and took off its attachments prior to pictures.




Looks like two head port connection???












Fuel connection should be the same right?




Smog tube








As can be seen. Anything good off the 351 is going to this engine.

 

If there is one thing I don't like. its wiring. I refuse to hack wires together unless needed. I assume the harness from the 351W would be plug in play with most of the 302's injectors and TPS and other odds and ends. I may not hod rod this truck at all but keep it as a winter beater/hauler so my Blue F-150 can have its plans completed with ease.

 

The EGR tube on the 302/5L engine goes to the lower intake manifold. No reason change any of it. Plug in the connector to the EVP, call it done.

 

Yes all the connectors will plug right into those devices since they are the exact same devices, the bulkhead connectors where the engine portion of the harness attaches to the body portion probably aren't though so it's always best to lift off the upper intakes of both motors(6 bolts) and remove all wiring currently on the donor motor and plug in the wiring currently in the truck once that motor is in place.

 

With all due respect in mind I concerned about one coming off the exhaust manifold and up to the 5.8 intake on the 5.8L engine. I'm curious as to how I can remove that setup and thusly block it off to prevent an exhaust leak. I'd hate to change a whole manifold over a small pipe. Maybe I'm over-thinking it. Other than that this looks to be easy.

I have no idea what trans is it in. I'll get the vin decoded and see as I doubt its anything other than stock. It looks to be an electronic trans of some kind at the very least. And I found also, I can remove the smog system. This truck has an after-market exhaust Y pipe, Cat, and muffler. The cat is a newer style cat so I'm not worried about the pump or its components now. A blessing to me and the next owner I suppose. Looks like a shop custom did some of this setup.

 

The EGR tube on the 5.8L engine screws onto a fitting that is also screwed into the manifold. You can remove everything then plug the threaded hole in the exhaust manifold.

 

Those fittings don't look to be in too bad a shape.. I have got worse looking apart. Use a propane torch to heat up the female side of the connector before putting torque on it, often that is just enough to break it free. And if you do end up damaging the tube these particular ones aren't expensive.

If the truck was originally a 5.8 the trans is an E4OD, find the calibration decal on the drivers door pillar and look for the trans code, E is E4OD and U is 4R70w which is the only other electronically controlled trans available but it wasn't factory installed behind a 5.8.

 

Well we are in luck cause its an E trans code. AKA E4OD. being honest, I've always wanted a truck with one of these trans just because of how tough they are. Anywho it looks like I'll be talking to my local junkyards for these parts here soon.

 

Update: Got a flywheel and dizzy from advance auto a week ago. Getting the 302 prepped. I just remembered that the rear main seal was about toast on this engine sooooooooo I'm gonna get some gaskets and at least do this truck half right. I also took some of my spare time to grind off the smog bumps on one head. Will do the other soon. I'ma have to rob so many bolts off of that 351W to make this all work out.










Yes before anyone asks. I put rags in the hole before grinding and took extra care to clean up the chips afterwards so this engine doesn't explode.




Sigh......What an exhausting part to get free from the intake........




Dirty trick for lazy people :3




God this engine is ugly.

 

If you're going to block off the cross over tube at the rear of the heads, at least just remove the whole thing and put plugs in the back of the heads. I don't recall the bolt size I used on mine, 7/16 coarse thread comes to mind but it was several years ago. Edit: looked it up, 5/8 diameter 11 pitch, 3/4 inch long will do the trick.