Considering it would make bolting the bell housing back up easier. I may go that route.

 

Soooo I've hit a snag in my work. Pictures to come, I just need to get a moment to upload them. Any who I was down and around fighting bolts loose and for the life of me I can't get the torque converter bolts out, I mean I had a guy holding the engine dead still with a three foot cheater and even with a wrench doubled up I could not get the bolt to budge, hell I bent part of a wrench actually. Soooo how screwed am I? Can I pull the engine as it sits with the converter going with the engine? Or is there a way I can avoid leaving enough fluid on the ground to make people think someone ate his last meal under the thing.

 

Ah yes, new stuff on old junk.



I don't know why but the rusted chrome looks amazing to me.



wiring out of the way.



The fram filter is why this engine died.



The most ghetto idea I have ever had. But it'll serve as a vent until I can get a proper PCV valve for this engine.

 

Good to see its, hanging out.........

 

Yeah that air fitting or whatever is not going to work as a PCV valve. That will just be a huge vacuum leak right into your intake.

 

In the words of some guy on the internet "its going to be used ONLY for "testing" purposes. So it'll be okay.

 

No I literally mean it's not going to work. You're going to start the engine and it's immediately going to go to 2500-3500 RPM and stay there. Either get the correct $8 PCV valve or just plug it off if it's only for "testing"

 

Where did that lift bracket come from?

 

I'm curious too. The 5.0s have two, one on the driver's side (front corner), and the other on the passenger side (rear corner). Haven't seen a 5.8 with the passenger side bracket.

 

I have yet to run the vin to confirm anything but This truck has allot of weird stuff that while is factory emissions equipment its not all supposed to be for an F-150 but more of an HD F-250. I've noticed the exhaust manifolds seem to have larger ports and the exhaust is not two inch but at least 2 1/4 if not larger in diameter. Classic generic newer cat gutted in the exhaust booger welder to the cheapest glass pack you can get at an exhaust shop ( I know the shop that did this work, they couldn't weld an inch plate of steal together right).

The bracket is for sure a Ford thing, I do know that. It bolts to the back of the head in the area where the smog tube will go if this engine had one, yet it don't even though they look like E7 heads. it just has two tubes that go from the smog pump straight into the exhaust on the manifolds. But I was happy when I looked at the trans on this truck. Its either a rebuilt one or a reman of some kind because the inside of the bell housing is brand new looking. God I got one weird combo. What's next?

 

I've crawled over a few in the JY & haven't come across anything like them though they certainly look factory. Wish I could find a pair. Can see where they would definitely interfere with air injection plumbing.

 

 

Forgive the bottom topwise pictures, I'm still learning this system for FTE Anyways I'm gonna clarify a few things in these pictures. Some will note that thoose are STOCK mustang "Mainifolds" AKA Fords stock style shorty header. I tried to use the mainifolds but they won't bolt up Something wonkers with the hole alinement and to boot to it looks like someone already hogged out its holes for the bolts making them way over sized and so close to the port that they are not good for my usages, they will most likely crack and require a replacement later on.. The shorties I already had that were for a crown vic I had that ended up getting sold and traded for a Chevy (lets not talk about that sin......) but anyways after forgetting to put on the shim plate and re pulling the engine I ran into an issue. I found I can't just bolt it up and then try to aline the Torque converter. Any tips to get it lined up and tight to the bellhousing like I need? I don't want to pull the engine all the way back out a third time and I need to get this truck moved either towed or under its own power in two weeks time on top of all my living crap. Any and all advice is welcome. Even fire. :3

 

Bam! Photo SPAM!




























Took some photos of the Exhaust for anyone curious as to if the stock mustang shorty's fit on an OBS. They in fact do. I got lucky with the exhaust. I was able to mod the drivers side pipe to a decent angle as well as found to flex pipe to kind of make up a systems for much less than an exhaust shop. Note that the booger welds are from a "Shop" from the front of the cat on back. Some will note the reuse of the nylon lines in some areas. I found the old lines to be in remarkably good condition, seeing that and being I did not have enough rubber to do this all up I made do and reused it where it deemed to be necessary. Good for patching two cut hoses together as well soo all and all not a bad deal there. I did fix a massive oil leak from the valve cover. as it turns out silicone and a shot cover don't work well at all. Really though I had a fire going for a bit at one point. Smog pump runs to nothing now just there for stock belt length, I was lazy and didn't feel a need for extra work to bypass it.

I did take it for a test run before I fixed the valve cover, transmission shifts flawlessly thus far, timing seems a little advanced by the feel of it and I got a massive vibration by what I think is just old out of balance mud tires. But the truck PULLS HARD for a 302 with manly stock everything. And when I say pull I mean it burned rubber from a dead hit of the gas and ran up to 60 in no time (I ain't crazy, vibrations at that speed mean issues). But enough rambling. This is basically done for now save for the hood. And I will surely update this for other future mods so its all in one hole for folks that care.