Thanks again Jim.. That is some wonderful information to have.. I wondered why my aluminum one piece driveshaft was popping.. Of course it said that it might be covered under drive-train warranty and i am sure that has passed.. I had just stopped by the shop that does my driveshaft work and he said that it has a crimped sleeve that is popping. That when i get time, bring ti to him and he would weld it and balance it for me..

Another was the surging at low speed I mentioned. The TSB said dirty injectors cause that..

Then there is the chirping belt.. TSB said to adjust the PS pulley

and then the TSB about the engine oil dipstick level.. I just changed the oil and after putting in 5qts with a new filter, it still showed almost 2 quarts low,, i added one more for a total of 6 because I knew it couldn't be 7.. I wonder if that is part of my disappearing oil issue? I was running it at the full mark before the oil change..
Again thanks for that great info.. now i know how important it is to keep up with the TSB's


I pulled the Codes.. nothing on key on engine off but code 11 which is good
KOER the first time around showed 77 and 52 both my fault for not turning the steering wheel and pressing the gas peddle

The next time around though with the engine running I think I didn't get the timing right on pressing the gas peddle because it gave me a code 13
13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO)
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking

I did notice when doing the WOT with the peddle that the engine rattled a little like poor gas maybe need medium grade instead of regular gas.. or i should check the timing as I haven't done that yet as was supposed to.

And thanks for letting me know about removing the air box frame to access the timing marks.... I had a hard time accessing the timing marks on my 85.. only a little window to get it with...

 

Missed the A/C question, Anna!
Best temps mine did was ~52°F with 90 something degree air outside.

The temp control runs a blend door between the heater core and evaporator, crude setting with the rest of the job done with fan speed. On MAX A/C, the outside air should be closed off. The recirc air is directly in front of the passenger seat and you can hear it open/close. Max A/C is recirculated air, colder faster and removes inside moisture.

The rear unit has a heater valve inside the doghouse below the cowling, driver's side. The valve is vacuum controlled so the backseat passengers can't call for heat with A/C selected up front.

 

edited as repeat post

 

Did the engineer ever think about how to replace the wires on the passenger side without removing the plenum? That was a job!

There is a bolt in the middle of the plenum that is a bit hard to access. It does not appear to be a standard bolt, perhaps hex/allen or torx?

How hard is it to remove the throttle body.. After we finished tuning it up and changing the FPR in 97 degree temps, and looking at the throttle body, i decided to save the TPS and EGR for a later date after i get back from the mountains..

After the tuneup, it runs about the same as it did before.

What is the deal with the distributor turning counter clockwise? i was pretty sure my 85 turned clockwise? Maybe i am wrong as my neurons seem to be slowing down these days.

 

Just updating what is going on. I did the tune-up and it didn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. While I had the doghouse off I changed the FPR. The only other part I have changed out is the Map sensor and it made a huge difference. It runs much more smoothly now and it doesn't smell like it is running rich any more. I still have a slight hesitation sometimes at very slow take off but i still have the Oxygen sensor, TPS, EGR, and clean the throttle body to go.. That will probably solve that issue as it is running so much better now..

Thank you again Jim for the TSB list. i have had squealing and chirping serpentine belt problems since I bought the van and the PO had bypassed the AC. Even with the AC and everything back on, it was chirping. One of the TSB's was about the power steering pulley not being all the way flush with the shaft. I fixed that Friday and WOW,, it not only fixed the chirping but it is much quieter inside the cab now. I didn't realize how much noise it was making. The pulley needed to be pulled up onto the shaft about 3/16".
I cant believe it went all these years like that!

Since doing the compression check and getting it smoothed out, i have much more confidence in the van now. After finishing up the above mentioned work, I think I'll check the slack in the timing chain...

Those water pump pics of yours Jim, still scare me!
!

 

Scared me too!
Chirping noises can also be fan clutch. Comes and goes, and sounds JUST like belt squeak, even goes away if the belt is sprayed or treated or replaced but always comes back.