I understand that brake fluid collects moisture. So if I want to change out the fluid, whats the best way?

 

Empty the reservoir to just above the bottom. Refil with fresh fluid. Then have a helper pump up brakes then proceed as if you are bleeding the brakes until you get fresh clean fluid coming out of your brake caliper bleeders. Start with the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Don't forget to keep and eye on the reservoir fluid level. You will probably need one of the big cans of dot 3.

 

There is a way to do a 1-man brake bleed. I've done this a couple times and it works well.

Supplies

1. empty clear bottle that is clean
2. fish tank air hose
3. bleeder valve wrench
4. Brake fluid


Process

0. Top off brake reservoir with brake fluid (co425's steps above to remove as much old as possible will speed this up - great idea!)
1. Put some new clean brake fluid in bottle (enough to be able to submerge air hose end in)
2. Place one end of the fish tank hose in the bottle (end submerged in fluid)
3. put wrench on bleeder valve, then put other end of air hose over valve end
4. open valve with wrench
5. pump brakes about 10 times (5-8 times on front disc since reservoir is small)
6. refill reservoir
7. repeat steps 5 and 6 until you see clean brake fluid in the air hose going into the bottle.
8. Close valve with wrench.
9. refill reservoir
10. Move to next brake.

Note: Do brakes in order of Passenger rear, drivers read, passenger front, driver front.

 

Note2: I've read in the FTE forum threads about a button on the proportioning valve that you may need to push/pull to ensure a good balance afterwards - I've never had to do it but its worth checking out.

 

Just FYI not all plastic will stand up to brake fluid. I prefer an old Mason jar I keep in my shed or in a pinch I just use a small brake fluid bottle with a home drilled through the top. I also use the push and hold method.
Put 2x4 under the pedal so you don't ram the seal down past its normal range of motion and into the crud and rust at the end of its rub that it's been sweeping there for ten or twenty years. Then push the pedal and hold until the air bubbles stop, then release (repeat). Requires less pumping and gets more air out.

Anyway I'm a one man band most of the time and I don't have a fancy mitty vac so that's how I do the one man bleed.

I also have a length of clear hose with a large nut zip tied to the bottom, which helps keep the hose under the fluid. If the end of the hose comes out you get air in system and have to start all over again.

 

No it does not... unlike some race cars, there is no check valve nor return line in the hydraulic system.

 

Main thing, whatever process you use, is to get the old dark brake fluid out of the system as much as possible and replaced with new clear fluid. A hot topic of discussion is which brake fluid to use - DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3 and they are compatible, DOT5 is silicone based and attracts water - I understand it has a very high boiling point but in return you get more water and air in the brake lines and spongier feel, plus you have to do a complete flush before you put it in (some folks have had previously good cylinders fail, too.) It's a bit of a crapshoot and personal preference thing, but whichever way you go, make sure you get all clean and thoroughly bled fluid through the system. Most of the above is from a Triumph forum I lurk on - me, I just run factory brakes with DOT 3 and don't heat up my brakes much.