1. it seems only my front brakes are working. the ABS light is still on. I dont know what to do.

2. after pressure testing the IC system I still don't get over 12 ish on boost, when I put the tuner on to 100 i get 20. the needle is bouncing all over so I don't even know if it is getting that and may be false. It hauls *** and feels better that when I first got it.

 

I have had good luck with adjusting the rear drums until the just make a little noise when turning by hand. The starwheel adjusters don't seem to work all that well.

AS for boost. I make 6psi and 1600* with plenty o smoke.(very bad)
Load the truck up and see what it gets.

 

my front brakes were smoking from 5 test runs. they are not dragging.
the spedo is working so I don't think it is the thing in the pumpkin.
I don't have LED lights in the system and the, brake lights work turn signals ok, fluid is fine. vacuum pump is working I believe. connections seem tight. Everything was working before I pulled the rear of the truck apart but i never messed with the brakes.

 

You didn't happen to undo the brake lines either? If there is ABS, maybe a plug is still undone on the rear if you took it apart? I'm not too familiar with ABS and I had to get rid of it on mine unfortunately since the diesel wiring harness didn't have the wiring for it with my swap.

You may have listed in your other thread but I didn't catch, do you have the boost gauge hooked up to the MAP vacuum line or is it tapped into the spider at the turbo? I've read a lot that the boost gauge will get some flutter when it is connected to the vacuum line. I drilled and tapped a hole in my spider and have zero flutter with my boost gauge.


I haven't driven much at all with my gauges yet, but I don't get much above 5 to 8 psi boost with normal driving. When I accelerate a little faster, it can go up to around 12-15. If I hit the gas pretty hard, it will go up pretty far (it's gone up to 30 a few times), but that's if I'm hitting it hard which it blows tons of black smoke so I don't do that much yet. Are you getting only 12 with WOT?

 

I don't know. I have checked the fittings I know about. Why would the fronts get so hot and feel like the stopping power was lacking. If it is a proportioning valve of some sort, why would it stop working when I did the work?
my boost like it tee'ed into the Map Line. I may tap it into the spider or move it down close to the manifold it's self.

 

Hmm I can't think of anything off the top of my head. There should be one fitting to each rear drum for the brake fluid. As far as I know, the proportioning valve is totally hydraulic/mechanical, so there shouldn't be any tricky electronic stuff going on.

I suppose it's possible the brake lines got clogged. It happened to my friend on his 91 camaro once. We spent weeks changing things like the calipers (twice), brake pads, soft brake lines, until we finally pulled the hard line and cleaned it out. I doubt your lines would be clogged though if you didn't do anything to the brake system.... it wouldn't hurt to check the fluid quality though just in case and see if there are any potential leaks. If you haven't tried flushing the brake system, that might be a good thing to do as well in case air got in the lines (or if the fluid is too old and contaminated with moisture/debris.)

You'd most likely notice this as well, but it wouldn't hurt to quickly check the vacuum line to the brake booster as well. I'm sure you'd feel that in the pedal if it wasn't working correctly though.

 

On the brakes, how does the pedal feel? Firm or soft? Does it drift down when your sitting at a stop light?

Is the red brake warning light in the cluster on also?

Here is a link to the procedure to pull ABS codes.

How to: Retrieve ABS trouble codes - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

Once you get the code you can troubleshoot what needs to be fixed.

There is a bleeder screw on the ABS valve on the frame rail right under the drivers door. I'd start there and bleed it and see if fluid comes out. Then work back to the bleeders on the rear wheels. When fluid quits coming out the blockage is between.

Did you stretch the rubber hose from the frame to the rear axle? Maybe it is torn on the inside causing a blockage.

I also have to re-adjust my rear drum brakes about every 6 months. They back off on their own. I get a pedal that I have to double pump to get a good braking action when the time comes to adjust them again. Could be parts missing in the rear drums for me, but I haven't been in there for a while to check.

Kevin

 

It feels about normal to me, no lights except the ABS light, the pedal does not creep down. It possible I stretched the rear hose but I don't think so.

I don't think I could bleed the thing under the drivers door. It's a ball of rust and looks like hell. I don't even see it. It looking like I need to pull everything off and rebuild it. Figures........................................... .....

How do I pull codes? I don't have a code reader. I did get some blue tooth thing that plugs into the port and there is an app for my phone but my phone broke and I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. I can't drive it to a Parts store to pull a code as it does not have tags yet.


Did I say I hate the F@*% who sold me this truck.

 

To retrieve the ABS codes on an OBS truck you locate and unhook the wire under the glove box.

Turn key to on position then short the connector to ground and then release. One side will blow a fuse, the other will make the ABS light on the dash flash out codes. I can't remember, but I think it is the black with an orange trace that needs to be grounded.

Count the flashes to figure out the code. The code will be some quick flashes then one long one. Count both the quick and the long. Code four would be quick-quick-quick-long. The codes should repeat.

Check out the link I put up before. It has more detail and lists the code problems. Follow guide for a 92 vehicle.

You will need to know if the red brake light in the cluster works and is on or off.

I have put 2 ABS valves on my 95 truck. My pedal had a lot of travel due to the bad ABS valve. Both were from a salvage yard, so you never know what you end up with. The first one I put on lasted about 6 months or so till I had to do a panic stop. 2nd one has been good for about 12 months and still going. You can get them from 92-93 F-150 and Bronco. I think the 94-96 trucks have a different plug, so check that first before shopping. I may have the compatible years reversed, but at some point they put 4 wheel ABS on the trucks. There is a test you can do with an OHM meter to somewhat test the valve in the junk yard to see if it may be good. Rebuilt ones are around $120. (I thought they were around $160. last year.)

Kevin

 

ohhhhh ok. 11 short 1 long nor red light. red light works

 

Description: Code 12 is generated when the anti-lock electronic control module detects that the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir is low for one or more seconds during an anti-lock stop. It can also be generated by a short in the stoplamp circuit.

Possible Contributing Base Brake Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns

Low master cylinder fill level

Fluid leaks in vehicle brake system

Worn or damaged master cylinder fluid level switch, or fluid level circuit shorted to ground

Master cylinder float that sticks in the bottom of brake master cylinder reservoir or does not float

Failed diode/resistor element in stoplamp circuit

Damaged ignition switch

Ground short in Circuits 512 or 531

Damaged anti-lock electronic control module

R1: CHECK WARNING LIGHTS

Key OFF.

Locate and disconnect the diagnostic connector from its mating half (Circuits 571 [BK/O] and 483 [R]).

Reconnect diagnostic connector.

Key ON.

Do BOTH the red BRAKE and yellow RABS lamps come on?

Yes: Hard fault. GO to «R2».

No: If the brakes have been serviced recently, or if brake fluid has been added to the system recently, MOST likely, the Code 12 was falsely set at that time and the RABS is OK. If this is NOT the case, GO to «Test T» for intermittent diagnosis procedures for the affected circuits. REFER to the mini-schematic for this pinpoint test.

R2: CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER

Key OFF.

Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Is the fluid level within specification?

Yes: GO to «R3».

No: CHECK for leaks in the brake system. REPAIR as required. FILL brake master cylinder reservoir to the required level. GO to «R9».

R3: VERIFY FLOAT BUOYANCY

Remove the master cylinder filler cap.

Attempt to push down the float with a clean, blunt steel implement, then let it float back up.

Does the float go down then float back up?

Yes: GO to «R4».

No, the float stays on the bottom of the brake master cylinder reservoir: REPLACE the brake master cylinder reservoir. BLEED the brake system. GO to «R9».

R4: CHECK CIRCUIT 531 (DG/Y) FOR GROUND SHORT

Key OFF.

Disconnect brake fluid level switch harness connector.

Disengage parking brake.

Check for ground short on Circuit 531 (DG/Y) at brake fluid level switch harness connector.

Is there a ground short?

Yes: REPAIR ground short in Circuit 531 (DG/Y). RECONNECT all components. GO to «R9».

No: GO to «R5».

R5: CHECK DIODE/RESISTOR ELEMENT

Engage parking brake.

Check for ground short on Circuit 531 (DG/Y) at brake fluid level switch harness connector.

Is there a ground short?

Yes: REPLACE resistor/diode element. RECONNECT all components. GO to «R9».

No: GO to «R6».

R6: CHECK CIRCUIT 512 FOR GROUND SHORT

Key OFF.

Disconnect battery negative cable.

Disconnect fluid level switch.

Disconnect ignition switch (11572).

Disconnect anti-lock electronic control module.

Check for short to ground on Pin 2 of anti-lock electronic control module harness connector (Circuit 512 [LG]).

Is there a ground short?

Yes: REPAIR ground short in Circuit 512 (LG). RECONNECT all components. GO to «R9».

No: GO to «R7».

R7: CHECK IGNITION SWITCH

Reconnect ignition switch.

Check for short to ground on Pin 2 of anti-lock electronic control module harness connector (Circuit 512 [LG]).

Is there a ground short?

Yes: REPLACE ignition switch. RECONNECT all components. GO to «R9».

No: GO to «R8».

R8: CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH

Reconnect brake fluid level switch.

Check for short to ground on Pin 2 of anti-lock electronic control module harness connector (Circuit 512).

Is there a ground short?

Yes: REPLACE brake fluid level switch. RECONNECT all components. GO to «R9».

No: REPLACE anti-lock electronic control module. GO to «R9».

R9: CLEAR CODE/PULL CODE

Key OFF.

Reconnect battery negative cable.

Verify all connectors are installed.

Locate and disconnect the diagnostic connector from its mating half (Circuits 571 [BK/O] and 483 [R]).

Key ON.

Begin diagnostic trouble code flashout by grounding Circuit 571 (BK/O) for 1 second.

What code was retrieved?

DTC 16: GO to «Pinpoint Test S» .

DTC 12: If all steps are complete, GO to «Pinpoint Test T» . If all steps are not complete, RETURN to the last step completed and CONTINUE.

Different DTC: GO to pinpoint test for corresponding DTC.

 

I have a RABS II so I don't know if this all works.
I tried to push the float down. I don't know where it is but pushing down with the cap off the res, did nothing. is it easy or did i need a pointy small item? It feels like there is a cage to keep it from moving??? Perhaps this is the problem. I don't have any rear brakes So i will try and bleed them tomorrow. the fluid in the res looks very dirty too. Not sure why ? mix of colors? I have clear new fluid and only have seen clear. I like to know what is wrong before I start replacing everything...

New brake lines and the rusted out thing under the driver door in the frame. I need to know how to test master or get new res.

 

Anyone know who makes a replacement brake like kit? I see them for gas f350's but not for diesel. Could be the same?

 

Well I think I will be retiring the prospector for the summer. Just too much left to do and no more cash. Unless Gun sales pick up... 52k guns sold each day and only about 25k made a day. its going to be a slow summer.
Left to do before road worthy use.
Steering issue figured out
Alignment
New breaking system due to age and rust damage.
AC repaired.
Any other thing that may show up, Usually does.


Other stuff to make it right.
Need rear door electric window replaced
paint cab top after removing rust.
Replace cab corner, paint.


Hopefully I can still gather parts and or info. Sell some other stuff around the home I don't use or need.

 

Dang, well hopefully all goes well! I'd love to buy some more guns but I don't have the money now! I never thought I'd get rid of gun, but I ended up getting rid of my S&W shield to help get the donor F-250 with the diesel.

While I'm sad it's gone, I'd do it again to get the setup in my truck! However, I do need another 9mm as soon as I get the chance!


I'd be happy to give advice if you need it for the AC work when you get around to doing that. I'm no professional HVAC technician, but I did study some refrigeration in my mechanical engineering degree but more importantly I've repaired the AC on 6 different vehicles so I have a good idea of what I'm doing!