I think I'm going to reuse what I have. I'd rather use old but proven parts instead of parts off of ebay from unknown origins. I did message a couple of the ebay listers about getting just the springs and spring washers from them.

 

That is a sound way to think about some of the parts. New is not necessarily always better. Check the old over carefully but if it looks ok and it's job is simple like those springs, then reuse them. Plus if something did happen, they are very easy to get to under the valve cover.

I am in the process now of going through a 2.9 v6 with about 140,000 on it. Whoever had it before me never took care of the anti-freeze, and a couple of the freeze plugs started leaking. I tried to swap them out with the rubber type but they kept popping out. I ended up pulling the engine. Glad I did because there is a freeze plug on the back of the block and it was seeping.

My engine didn't use any oil, no knocks, the oil stayed like brand new till it had a couple thousand miles on it. So I am just tearing it down for inspection looking things over, not replacing much except the gaskets and seals. Did have to replace the cylinder heads. Even the timing chain and sprocket looked good, it had a metal sprocket on it. I like that chain tensioner they use on this engine.

I don't like the torx head bolts. I don't like the threaded bolts they use to hold the y-pipe to the manifolds, had to torch them off.

I don't like the timing cover that floats around with no dowel pins. They say these engines where made in Germany. After working on a bunch of German made machinery in a woodworking factory, I can see them cringing each time they had to fiddle with aligning the timing cover without using alignment dowels or pins. The Germans make some good stuff.

 

Alright I've almost got her wrapped up. Hopefully I'll have her running Monday. I'll update the OP with a more extensive parts list after I'm done.

I do need a little help right now, though. Behind the intake on the engine wire harness where the manual transmission and O2 sensor connectors are there's a little black orphan connector. What is it suppose to be connected to???

In regards to the springs. After inspecting them while taking apart the rocker arm assemblies I decided to reuse them as they looked to be in great shape and still seemed to provide more than adequate force. I've seen multiple forum where guys where asking about how to get the 3 mounts off of the shaft.
First only 2 need to come off if you're reusing the shaft.
Second I was replacing the rocker arms with melling replacements. If reusing the RAs I don't recommend this.
Third I used a small hammer and lightly tapped an old rocker that was setting against the mount until it fell off of the shaft. I used the old rocker arm to put the mounts back on in the same manner. Worked great! Just take your time.

I found some "new" springs on ebay if anybody wants them $20 shipped. They look like they've been sitting on a shelf for a while.

 

Anyone???....

 

Pacesetter... Never again!

First the bolts for the y pipe to the headers were to long. I got a set of fully threaded Stainless Steel shorter M-10 bolts.

I get everything bolted up, the truck off the jack stands and now the front drive shaft is contacting the y pipe at the rubber boot.

 

I've updated the OP with a comprehensive BOM. However, I still have more O Reilly receipts to go through to complete the BOM.

 

Where do you put the 2 extra fuel injectors?

Only bothersome, to me, part is the K&N. Getting them oiled properly so you don't coat the MAF takes care and meticulous work. Too much and the MAF gets coated, too little, and the filter doesn't. I am too lazy. I use paper.
If you plan on changing oil after first startup and run for xx hours, I would have said get a less costly filter instead of a 'long life' as it likely may not stay in use for long.

tom

 

In the heater core of course. HAHA No I couldn't find a set of 6 cheaper on ebay. Now I've got 2 extra.

I spray off the MAF with a can of MAF cleaner every oil change and I've never had a problem with other cars.

I'll change after 500 hours. I strongly disagree with getting a cheap filter here. This filter should see more metal than any other filter after if as you break in the engine. The oil filter working is critical during the first 500 miles.

 

I still like Motorcraft and Purolator. Both are the cotton wad type, I think. Unless they switched to pleated. Either way, most crud stuff will flow in the first few miles as you note, but you won't wear out the least expensive filter in that time unless something is grossly wrong. I have used Fram (horrors!) for ~250k on a Vulcan with no lube issues.
I think all filters will catch the detritus left by machining and will not be bypassed in the 'break-in' time, but you certainly are free to install whatever you prefer. (I kinda think the brand difference is marketing, as your engine should NOT be producing grind-em-up stuff as it runs unless something is wrong, and any filter will do to catch that) Oil changes are the key to long engine life, IMO. Varying speeds and throttle opening in the first few hundred miles are more important to long engine life than filter brand. Just MY opinion, and I honor all others freedom to disagree.
Hope things go together well, and it runs a long time.
tom

 

Why can I not edit my OP? Can a mod please help. I'd like to keep it updated for others who may find themselves where I was 4 weeks ago. Ignorant and clueless.