'89 5.0....so I'm changing the water pump, the one bolt that is common to the AC bracket, thru the waterpump, thru the timing cover and into the block....
The threads snapped off in the block when trying to put it back in.(it was tight coming out too)

How do I get it out? Will the timing cover have to come off?


Thx

 

probably have to drill it out and re thread it

 

Man, that is terrible. Did you try an "Easy Out" on it?

Also HOSE all those bolts down with some penetrant like PB or Liquid Wrench to loosen them up.

All my studs came out without being broken, luckily. I reinstalled them with some black RTV that was highly recommended by lexluthr69 on FTE.

My 3 bolts that held the A/C and PS to the block were a PITA to get out. I let them soak over night and still would not move. I had to bust out the 1/2" drive impact gun to get them out. My 3/8" drive wouldn't move them.

Worse case scenario, you will have to take that front cover off. If you do, you may as well replace the timing chain that far down.

 

The new water pump is already on.
ALL the bolts came out and went back in fine except that one. It was tough getting out...and starting resisting when only threaded halfway back on(yes, I cleaned the threads).

Ya...I was thinking about the timing chain if the cover has to come off.
I need a long block soon...within the yr...(high mileage).
Do short/long blocks come with the timing gear set? I wouldn't want to buy twice.
I'll put a good double roller in it now if I'm gonna need/use it for the new motor anyways.

Thx,
Derek

 

Derek...

Short Block are pistons, rods, and crank. Usually no cam.

Long Block are pistons, rods, crank, heads, and cam.

If you are going for a new block, I would not swap the timing chain then. I use almost all new parts when building motors. Timing chain, lifters, oil pump, all bolts, gaskets, etc.

I would get a nice roller 306 shortblock that are sold for around $750-1000. Run a mild cam (204/210), GT-40 iron heads, and have a compression ratio around 9.5:1. It will make more power and most likely get better economy than you are getting now.

Eric

 

Ya...a new motor will be getting a few upgrades for sure...stock HP just doesn't cut it...but that's a whole 'nother thread when that time comes

I'll just stick to doing the minimum needed to keep this one running for now.

How could I try an easy out with the timing cover on???

 

How much power are you looking for? What is your budget? I can steer you the correct direction...like most!

From what I remember that EasyOut is a small drill bit that drills into that broken bolt then grabs it hard-core to pull it back out. New ones are like $75 I think fo the cover

 

The only easyout I'm familiar with is a bit that you turn with a wrench...first you drill a pilot hole...hammer in the bit....try to turn it out.

What's $75?

My motor budget will depend on what's available when the time comes. What I'm used to is 5.0 Mustangs...I thought the truck 5.0 was similar when I bought it....but then I learned it's setup quite different(read...lame).
It is just a truck though....If it could have at least 225hp that would be sufficient to at least get out of it's own way a little better....hold speed up hills etc.
It won't be hard to accomplish.

 

That is the EasyOut I am familiar with also.

$75 is what I saw a new front cover sell for.

Our 5.0 trucks have a far smaller cam, same junk heads, and a better intake manifold. A very mismatched setup.

Anyway the WORST part of the old SBF is the cylinder heads. They are just plain bad. If you have the cash AFR-165's are the BEST SBF heads on the market right now. A stock internal and stock cam'd roller 302 with long tubes will make ~400hp on an engine dyno with the AFR-165 heads.

If those AFR's are out of the budget, you can find GT-40 irons, GT-40X, Edelbrock Perfomer's, all for $700 or less. These will get you to an easy 300hp with a small (204/210) cam.

 

Actually an easy out has reverse threads. As mentioned, you drill a pilot hole (the size will be on the instructions of the easy out). Then you just start threading the easy out into the broken bolt. It depends on the size of the easy out whether or not you use a wrench on it or just a drill.

The hardest part of extracting that broken bolt with the easy out is drilling the pilot hole DEAD CENTER. Since the cover is still on, this will be even harder because you cannot see the bolt.

This may be a good opportunity to do that cam and timing gear swap!

 

EXACTLY what I was thinking, but high milage is keeping him at bay...for now.

 

I think the cover has to come off eh
Cuz yes....drilling the pilot hole is the tricky part.

Which motor are you refering to Eric? A Mustang HO shortblock? Or rollering my truck block? I recall hearing something about the timing/firing order difference between the two.

Now what about the truck computer? It'll run a 300hp engine? My understanding is that the mustang computer is NOT a plug and play swap into a truck.

As for heads...I really hope to be able to upgrade this part of the motor when the time comes, or at the very least clean out the exhaust port a bit on the stock ones. I have lots of mustang magazines..LOL..so I've heard of the 165's...of course the GT40's are a standard no brainer too...for the same price, I think a guy can also get the cnc'd PowerHeads...not sure what the difference would be though.

 

The truck 5.0 until '93 or so was the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order. The HO 5.0 is a 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

You can get the truck computer to work with a custom chip but you will have to still use the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order.

Lexluthr69 on FTE runs a roller 302 block with a stock 5.0 cam. Also he (as myself and others) runs a FMS MAF kit. The MAF kit is a direct plug and play deal. It will make the injectors a SEFI setup...BUT it still uses the non-HO firing order. Luke rewired his within a few hours for the HO firing order. Apparently his truck runs waaaay better with the SEFI and HO cam.

Lucky for you, I have flow numbers for all of the SBF 160-170cc range on my work computer. Fully ported stock heads will make more power than stock GT-40 irons. Fully ported GT-40 irons make more power than stock GT-40X aluminum heads. It really depends on budget in this area. You get the idea... Fully ported stockers go for ~$400 used on ebay. I'd look for some head with some mild port work. Great deals around just gotta look for them

 

Interesting I'm getting some hope for this truck!
Thx for the info Eric

So with a MAF conversion and a little help getting the firing order straight....I could just drop in a mustang HO 5.0 long block?(modifications aside)

btw.....being here in Canada....you can almost double what it costs you guys to get stuff done

 

There is hope for any vehicle with parts common to a fast vehicle.

My truck was a TOTAL turd when I got it, it would barely get up a hill in OD with the A/C on, the charging system sucked, and was on it last legs. Now I can't really tell that it the A/C is on considering how much more power it has now than when stock. Even stock with everything off it would not even light up the rear tire...now it does big time! BTW, mine is still stock heads, stock cam, stock intake manifold.

Yup a 87-92 is your best bet. Don't forget those years also came with TRW forged pistons! Look in: Mustangs (duh), Lincoln Mark VII, Continentals, later model F-series for the roller blocks also.

Your '89 should have the bosses cast into the lifter galleey for the roller spider tray, my '88 block does. A machine shop can drill and tap those for the roller setup if you rebuild your existing block.

There are TONS of people on this site from Canada!