Any benefits to this upgrade. My fan isn't coming on when pulling my fifth wheel soon enough. I'm steadily watching my gauges all the time.

 

I would personally call a tuner and try to get a tune that adjusts the fan clutch lockup, it can be a trans-only tow tune if you don't want to mess with power levels. The electric fan clutch is a benefit the majority of the time.

What's your definition of "not early enough", because the 7.3L fan clutch the BPD adapter uses isn't adjustable like the clutch you already have is.

 

They allege that it will cool your truck sooner and better than the stock fan, but I agree that one way around that is indeed to have a tuner lower the temp that the fan comes on.

 

I had the same problem. My truck would not command the fan to 100 percent until I was over 220 degrees. I did the Fan Override Mod and it works great. I now turn the fan on to 100 percent when I feel the truck is getting too hot or before big hill climbs.

 

and whats the fan over ride mod? A switch in the line?

Turn on the A/C or get your RPM up.

 

Everyone who I talked to who went this route loved it and suggested it to others. There are 2 other options, 1 has been mentioned about using a tune to adjust the "on" temp. And then there's the "blue wire mod" explained below.

That's what they call the "blue wire mod" you wire a switch to the blue wire on the engine side of the fan plug, and you switch it to GRND only, DO NOT PUT 12v to that wire. That will activate the fan and allow it to come on at 100%, it takes a bit to activate (the oil in the clutch has to warm) and to turn back off, and you will hear the fan run. But you will also watch your temps drop significantly. It works great and is basically a free mod, all you need is a length of wire, a switch, and a saddle tap splice. Don't cut the blue wire just tap into it with your switch wire. Some have used a relay and an upfitter switch, you'll have to search for a wiring diagram on that one.
I had a rocker switch that only required 2 small holes to mount and where I put it will never be seen when I get around to doing the 7.3 clutch someday.
I posted a pic of the switch I used and where I mounted it (the black wire in the pic goes to my CTS, not part of the mod)

 

I just did this mod to my excursion, i bought the harness ends and made a short plug and play harness. Its is about 4-5" long and i just unplugged the fan harness and plugged my jumper harness in between. I didnt want to cut into the factory engine harness. I Ran a 2/16 wire loom into the cab to a on-on switch, and grounded the switch. So in the down position its in automatic mode(pcm is controlling the fan), and when the switch is in the up position its on manual mode. It works pretty good, but takes awhile for the fan to disengage when you turn it off.

 

One thing to consider when going to the 7.3 clutch is the fan speed sensor can't be connected, so you are most likely going to get a CEL. If you have to pass smog you might have to re-install the 6.0 clutch. Not sure where you live, but in CA that's just one more hoop to jump through.

I'd sick with the stock clutch and either get a tow tune to have it come on sooner if you have a tuner, or try the mod.

 

It will throw a soft code but no CEL with either mod

 

So, I am going to put this out there because I think these mods are not necessary. I have never seen the fan not come on at 217 f, even if A/C is off, EOT is below 190. And it comes on quick, as soon as I see the 217, it comes up to 100% right away no wait time. So, I am thinking you either have pigtail issues, ground issues or the fan clutch is dying. It doesn't take time to warm in my experience. I have Ben watching an outlook monitor for almost 10 years on my truck and I am pretty sure neither mod is needed, but to address the fundamental problem. As for turning on early to keep temps down, I have rarely seen over 225 ECT, everything is working well, but that's well below boiling point at full 15 psi of the coolant system. If there are other troubles, in the system, this would be another likely culprit to solve. Radiator fins clean, water pump impeller, belt loose, tensioner, idler pulled ect ect. Hope this helps.

 

That's why I wish he would come back and define "soon enough". If he thinks the truck should run at 180* then the problem is that's not reasonable nor where you want the engine to be anyways. 200-210*f is perfectly normal, I wouldn't want the fan to come on it that range.

 

So why are people worried about running at 220F? Well below the boiling point of the coolant as mentioned above. With a good oil cooler your EOT should stay well within spec (mine gets up to about 235F when I'm pulling a long hill). Trans temp also tends to creep up with higher ECTs but I never get over 200F.

Also diesels run more efficient at higher temps (see Mishimoto 200F stat).

I personally wouldn't want to have to listen to the fan at full speed if I didn't have to since it's so loud. With the stock clutch it's disengaged most of the time saving power & fuel.

 

Agree with you guys on these Temps when towing. It is expected.

People are afraid their 6.0 is going to get hot and blow the EGR cooler, they're going to have to do headstuds and everything else that goes along with that. We've all heard the horror stories. I say if it makes you feel better to do those mods and is not going to hurt the truck any, go ahead for the peace of mind.

I think coolant filters on these trucks are a joke, but a lot of people run one anyway because it makes them feel better. Same thing

 

The stock thermostat isn't fully open until 219 IIRC. I've gone as high as 225 without worrying. I don't know if it means anything, but the default "alert" setting on my Edge is 230.

I'm not sure he has a problem.

 

So my 07 F250 is stock and while on a trip in 95* heat thru the mountains with no load on the truck i found my temps easily above 210 and 215-220 EOT with the AC on. even on flat ground the temps never went below 200. The truck has 150k miles so I am suspect that perhaps the fan clutch needs replaced. I need to go out on another drive and see if it continues or changes between AC and Max AC.

on my scan gauge, which setting is the fan speed?