Scroll down to pages 106 & 107, which have the component locations, how the circuits work, etc. That's true of each section - schematics up front and locations, how it works, and testing at the back.

 

Ahh thank you sir!!!

 

I just read the description on Page 106, it says it uses a toilet-float-bowl-type of strategy! How funny! Never knew that before...

OK on the rest, thank you for the correction!

 

Sounds like a strategy that should of been flushed!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Gonna talk to myself here, as an opportunity to put up some pictures from the belts-n-hoses project.... 1996 Ford Bronco 351W roller



An antifeeze leak I thought I'd chase:





But notice how high up off the manifold the hold-down bolt is:





That's because the bolt is broken!





Which looks like this when mostly drilled out





And you invariably end up doing this:

 

Damn I hope I don't end up with a leak like that....

 

After reading this I'm going to subscribe to keep up. I want to learn the ins and outs of a lot of what you're talking about for my Beast. Ya know.. Just in case.

Good luck and I'll chime in "if" I can. Otherwise, I'll be lurking!

 

The more the merrier, it's all about learning and keeping up with these things.

 

Mine isn't a 302 so it'll be a little different here and there. But, the fuel stuff has piqued my interest.

 

Here are some pictures finally....






The only thing I was able to find when I went to the junkyard Sat was a fuel door.






After looking at these pictures I am starting to wonder if it's worth it!!! Looks worse than in person.




This is the EGR stuff I was talking about that came apart.




I found this under the dash mid way but more towards the pass side.....Is this the Inertia switch??

 

Yes, that's the inertia witch.

As for the rest of it, all I can say is: eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeee.....

 

That "EGR stuff" is a A.I.R. pump or "thermactor" diverter valve.


Yes, the last picture appears to be an inertia switch.
You reset it by pressing the button on top.
Should have power in and out with the key in run.
Test the yellow wires using a regular pin to pierce the insulation.

 

That could be a really pretty truck!

Maybe your wife will compound and wax it for you???

 

Since I went out and took the pictures and all was quiet other than the buzzing from the key in the ignition.....I turned the key to run and I think I hear the faint hum of the high pressure fuel pump. I will get someone to turn the key on again when I am under it to make sure that it in fact is running. Now if it is in fact running does that mean I need to start at the tank selector switch to see if it is getting power and then sending power out from the switch to each tank pump and then go there and check? I am asking this before I go back to the wiring schematic.

 

Thanks it does have potential but I don't think it's going to come from my wife getting out there and scrubbing on it but I will say she won't hesitate to drive my 96.