1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Bleeding brakes after 30 yrs 65 F100

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Old 06-25-2016, 09:55 AM
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Bleeding brakes after 30 yrs 65 F100

I've got the motor running, but now on to brakes. The single master is topped off (was empty) and pedal gets stiff, but there's no fluid pushed through to the wheels with the bleeder opened. Is there blockage in the lines, or at the junction for front/rear? I have not opened the lines to see where the blockage might be coming from yet, just fishing for ideas.

At this point I'm anxious to drive around the block and rattle the neighbors windows - the glaspack was a ball of rust. Still other things to be done before it's road worthy, but would be nice to be able move around the driveway.

Found the original seat covers in excellent condition under another vinyl cover..and those custom door handles!
 
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:02 AM
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Save yourself a lot of time, and maybe a wreck, rebuild the master, replace the lines, rebuild or replace the wheel cyl's.
 
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Old 06-25-2016, 01:55 PM
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Just for the fun of it, remove the bleeder completely and see if fluid moves. Rust will bock the bleeder hole(s).
 
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Old 06-25-2016, 04:00 PM
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Possibly air in the MC if there was no fluid, and you need to bench bleed? +1 on replacing or rebuilding everything after the pedal. At least test thoroughly before driving.
 
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Old 06-25-2016, 05:16 PM
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New lines, new rubber, rebuilt or replaced wheel, master cylinders, checked springs, good shoes, all hardware in good repair, cleaned up backing plates, and functioning parking brake before it hits the black top.
 
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:13 PM
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Single to dual master conversion?

Agree on replacing everything... was just thinking about being able to do a celebratory neighborhood trip after getting engine and fuel system going. There's fluid pushing at the line/rubber hose connection (some cracking noticeable on the rubber). Loosening the hose at the wheel cylinder does not leak anything, and bleeder was not clogged. Know this is just something that could be any cause and the best course is to replacing everything, but I'm curious as to why this might happen.

Thinking of replacing the single master for a dual master while I'm doing this, but keeping the drums as is for now. If I use a '67+ drum/drum master, is there a external proportional valve needed?

The e-brake is working - not rolling down the driveway yet.

Thanks!
 
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