2011 F350 Won't Start
#1
2011 F350 Won't Start
Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed. I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Any thoughts? I am pretty perturbed that my 35k mile truck is already giving me problems.
Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
#2
#3
What a bummer for sure.
I know not much if anything about the electronics in these newer rigs but I have noticed with my '11 that they have some sort of newer ignition switch for the key. As in its not like a older vehicle where you turn the key to start and hold it until it starts. On these newer rigs you just have to turn the key to the start position for a brief moment it then starts the truck itself engaging the starter as long as needs be for the motor to fire. I assumed this tech was implemented as the start of the turnover to push button start.
Maybe someone with more info on the ignition switches will pipe in or atleast that's where I'd start digging around further. Please update your thread here with whatever info/fix you find.
Not that it helps you any but my '11 CC lariat 6.2 has 135,000m and no issues. But if I go out today and it doesn't start off the key I'd still be pissed! Good luck.
I know not much if anything about the electronics in these newer rigs but I have noticed with my '11 that they have some sort of newer ignition switch for the key. As in its not like a older vehicle where you turn the key to start and hold it until it starts. On these newer rigs you just have to turn the key to the start position for a brief moment it then starts the truck itself engaging the starter as long as needs be for the motor to fire. I assumed this tech was implemented as the start of the turnover to push button start.
Maybe someone with more info on the ignition switches will pipe in or atleast that's where I'd start digging around further. Please update your thread here with whatever info/fix you find.
Not that it helps you any but my '11 CC lariat 6.2 has 135,000m and no issues. But if I go out today and it doesn't start off the key I'd still be pissed! Good luck.
#4
Well I took it to the dealer and $225 later they had it starting. They said they had to reset some parameters on the computer and there was a code for an unprogrammed key on it. I had tried using an un-programmed one during my troubleshooting so I was a little suspicious to begin with. The truck started up from the dealer and started up coming home no problem yesterday.
This morning when I got in it to head to work it started to crank for a half a second and then stopped. it wouldn't crank over with that key or the other two keys I have. it also would cycle the locks when I tried to start it. I fumed over it and then jumped it on the starter to head to work. When I got to work and shut the truck off I tried starting it back up and it whirled right over and ran no issue.
WTF?????
This morning when I got in it to head to work it started to crank for a half a second and then stopped. it wouldn't crank over with that key or the other two keys I have. it also would cycle the locks when I tried to start it. I fumed over it and then jumped it on the starter to head to work. When I got to work and shut the truck off I tried starting it back up and it whirled right over and ran no issue.
WTF?????
#5
Hmm. I haven't read of this symptom before being connected to it but the only electrical issues I've read about with the 6.2 involved the wiring connector located at the parking brake bracket. May not help at all but next time it doesn't start try wiggling that connector some or even just applying and releasing the park brake. Shot in the dark but you never know right?
Please report back if you do get it sorted and hopefully you get it fixed without to much headache or money.
Please report back if you do get it sorted and hopefully you get it fixed without to much headache or money.
#6
#7
Looks like I may have solved the mystery. After some extensive time on the internet I found something that mentioned ID tags, or rewards tags sometime interfere with the security on Ford vehicles. I removed my gas rewards tag and tried to start the truck, nothing. Jumped it and got it home where I tried one of my new keys and
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#8
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#11
We had an 08 Escape, that has the same design ignition .
The truck had around 60k miles, and was having intermittently starting issues as p.o. has described.
It eventually got worse , and would not start without drama, wiggling the key etc.
Wife could not start it to go to work one day, so I had to delve into it.
The switch is on the opposite side if the key, and has a tiny plastic plunger that actuated the ignition switch when the key is turned.
This plastic plunger is the diameter if a #2 pencil led , and had deformed enough , that it would not actuate the ignition .
The procedure to replace as per factory service manual , involved removal of steering wheel and air bags of course.
I was able to remove the offending parts and replace , without removal .
The dealer was trying to tell me it was the key switch, or the ignition switch , but this part is in between the 2 .
I bought Motorcraft replacement, for I believe it was 38.00 dollars.
Which was less than either if the other parts separately.
The truck had around 60k miles, and was having intermittently starting issues as p.o. has described.
It eventually got worse , and would not start without drama, wiggling the key etc.
Wife could not start it to go to work one day, so I had to delve into it.
The switch is on the opposite side if the key, and has a tiny plastic plunger that actuated the ignition switch when the key is turned.
This plastic plunger is the diameter if a #2 pencil led , and had deformed enough , that it would not actuate the ignition .
The procedure to replace as per factory service manual , involved removal of steering wheel and air bags of course.
I was able to remove the offending parts and replace , without removal .
The dealer was trying to tell me it was the key switch, or the ignition switch , but this part is in between the 2 .
I bought Motorcraft replacement, for I believe it was 38.00 dollars.
Which was less than either if the other parts separately.
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