Thread sizes, oil pressure & water temp
#1
Thread sizes, oil pressure & water temp
Hey,
So my Speedhut gauges are supposed to arrive today; oil pressure & temp, water temp, fuel pressure, boost, and EGT.
I already know where fuel pressure is going. I am going to mount the EGT at the back of drivers side manifold.
Water temp is going to get tee'd from the existing water temp sender, but I don't remember what that thread size is, can anyone remember?
The oil pressure and oil temp, I'm not quite sure where I want to mount, I know I am going to have to adjust when I install the turbo, so maybe there is a place where I can install that will be out of the way. Also does anyone know the thread size for the oil ports?
Thanks Again,
Devin
So my Speedhut gauges are supposed to arrive today; oil pressure & temp, water temp, fuel pressure, boost, and EGT.
I already know where fuel pressure is going. I am going to mount the EGT at the back of drivers side manifold.
Water temp is going to get tee'd from the existing water temp sender, but I don't remember what that thread size is, can anyone remember?
The oil pressure and oil temp, I'm not quite sure where I want to mount, I know I am going to have to adjust when I install the turbo, so maybe there is a place where I can install that will be out of the way. Also does anyone know the thread size for the oil ports?
Thanks Again,
Devin
#2
You don't want to tee in temp gauges. A tee doesn't let the sender get the flow of the fluid. Pressure gauges are fine to tee in as the pressure is the same everywhere.
You can remove the stock coolant temp sender to install the aftermarket one, which will render the stock gauge useless, but may still retain the idiot light if it overheats, I think that depends on which sender you remove (there are two I believe, maybe 3 if you could the cold start circuitry)
Another option is to install it somewhere else. I put one further back on the driverside head. There is a port there with a square headed plug near the exhaust manifold. I believe its 1/2" pipe thread. It was a pain in the *** to get the plug out as I didn't have a square socket of the right size. Also it seems that either the temperature there reads high, or maybe the exhaust manifold being so close is elevating the temp it reports.
There are oil ports by the oil filter in the rear of the engine block. I want to say its small square plugs near the back of the block. The ATS aftermarket turbo gets its oil feed from that location.
You can remove the stock coolant temp sender to install the aftermarket one, which will render the stock gauge useless, but may still retain the idiot light if it overheats, I think that depends on which sender you remove (there are two I believe, maybe 3 if you could the cold start circuitry)
Another option is to install it somewhere else. I put one further back on the driverside head. There is a port there with a square headed plug near the exhaust manifold. I believe its 1/2" pipe thread. It was a pain in the *** to get the plug out as I didn't have a square socket of the right size. Also it seems that either the temperature there reads high, or maybe the exhaust manifold being so close is elevating the temp it reports.
There are oil ports by the oil filter in the rear of the engine block. I want to say its small square plugs near the back of the block. The ATS aftermarket turbo gets its oil feed from that location.
#6
That's true, in fact each head has two coolant ports and only one of the four is in use (over-temp light).
#7
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I looked at an engine I had on a stand and it looks like the op sensor is bigger than 1/4" npt, I think 3/8. It has an adapter that screws into the block with what looks like 1/8" npt. It didnt look like there was enough room to install a t. There wasnt room to screw one on from what it looked like.
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#9
I've been searching my saved threads, and i can't find it. But I think I remember reading that some engine have different sized threads for the oil pressure sender. I don't remember where I read it though. I thought maybe it was in a turbo install thread. Maybe it was a 7.3 vs 6.9 thing.
Devin
Devin
#10
Yes, sometimes suggesting using that port starts an argument that you get an inaccurate reading there because you loose a fraction of a degree in heat.
For those that OCD over this I suggest moving the over-temp switch to the rear port and use the front for your gauge. There's plenty of wire to move the switch without modifying anything.
But it really doesn't matter; the coolant travels so fast any difference in reading (if any) is negligible.
You do need a 9/16 8 point to get that plug out.
For those that OCD over this I suggest moving the over-temp switch to the rear port and use the front for your gauge. There's plenty of wire to move the switch without modifying anything.
But it really doesn't matter; the coolant travels so fast any difference in reading (if any) is negligible.
You do need a 9/16 8 point to get that plug out.
Last edited by Chevy_Eater; 06-23-2016 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Typo.
#12
IDK that i would use that port. first, its in the back of the head, second. Trying to run my fan controller from where the idiot light went was a nightmare. One minute it was running too cool, the next it was overheating. Finally bought and IR temp gun, the head port can be as much as 40* off from the t-stat housing (where it should be mounted). Moral of the story is, i drilled and tapped my t-stat housing for my controller, and worked flawlessly.
The oil pressure port, the factory one anyway, is 1/8"npt on NA engines, and 1/4" on turbos. There is also a 1/8" port near the bellhousing on the drivers side that comes off the mains.
The oil pressure port, the factory one anyway, is 1/8"npt on NA engines, and 1/4" on turbos. There is also a 1/8" port near the bellhousing on the drivers side that comes off the mains.
#13
Odd. I put my own sensor in that place(a RTD sender) and it's perfectly stable and right in the range I expect(185-195F range under normal driving conditions, going higher under heavy load up hills etc).
#15
Man I wish you luck on all that aftermarket stuff. I just finished pulling all of it off my truck and got the stock gauges back working again. I dont need egt, fuel pressure, or oil temp for my work truck. And dont have a turbo.
I guess if you are hot rodding your truck or pulling a big heavy trailer, those will be helpful. I just got tired of all the wires and thermocouples running all over the place. The mechanical oil pressure gauge was run with small plastic line just like whats used on air shocks. I had those melt and get broken. Not anymore!
I guess if you are hot rodding your truck or pulling a big heavy trailer, those will be helpful. I just got tired of all the wires and thermocouples running all over the place. The mechanical oil pressure gauge was run with small plastic line just like whats used on air shocks. I had those melt and get broken. Not anymore!