99 F350 V10 4WD CREW CAB
#1
99 F350 V10 4WD CREW CAB
Greetings.
I am new here, and I just purchased a used truck.
1999 F350, V10 4x4. It has some issues and I hope to address and fix them a bit at a time with some guidance from members here.
I paid $1,300 for the truck.
Upon purchase, the truck would not start at all. No crank even. Battery was dead, so I replaced it. Only got a click upon key turn. I pulled the starter from a parts truck I have, a 2001 F350 5.4.
I also pulled the starter to battery cable from my parts truck and replaced the cable on the V10.
Truck cranks over, wanted to start, finally did. Upon start up, very rough idle, wanting to die. Lots of white smoke from the tailpipe. Idle settled down, but still smoke, white in color from the pipe. Smoke smells more like gas and oil than anything. Shut off the truck. Recheck the engine oil, nice and clean, no milkshake. Siphon some gasoline out of the tank. Stuff is urine yellow and stinks to high heaven. Put some in a lawn mower and the lawn mower starts billowing white smoke from its exhaust as well.
Noticed that the brake pedal sinks almost to the floor. Had someone suggest that i check the brake booster, for brake fluid. They are suggesting that the master cylinder may be leaking fluid into the booster, and then the vacuum may be sucking fluid from the booster, into the engine, resulting in white smoke.
I will check this weekend for oil in the booster first to try and find the guilty party for the white smoke....as well as drop the fuel tank, clean it out of all the stale fuel, before I assume a blown head gasket is the cause.
I'd be interested in hearing experienced members suggestions on how I should approach this. I am hoping the stumbling, rough idle, white smoke, to all be a combination of bad gasoline (truck sat for well over 1 1/2 with the tank almost full of fuel), brake fluid leaking into the booster and sucked via vacuum, fuel injectors dirty from the old fuel, spark plugs fouled up from the bad fuel and brake fluid (if the brake fluid is in fact, leaking into the booster).
I am not a mechanic, but I am somewhat handy and can follow directions.
Thank you everyone.
I am new here, and I just purchased a used truck.
1999 F350, V10 4x4. It has some issues and I hope to address and fix them a bit at a time with some guidance from members here.
I paid $1,300 for the truck.
Upon purchase, the truck would not start at all. No crank even. Battery was dead, so I replaced it. Only got a click upon key turn. I pulled the starter from a parts truck I have, a 2001 F350 5.4.
I also pulled the starter to battery cable from my parts truck and replaced the cable on the V10.
Truck cranks over, wanted to start, finally did. Upon start up, very rough idle, wanting to die. Lots of white smoke from the tailpipe. Idle settled down, but still smoke, white in color from the pipe. Smoke smells more like gas and oil than anything. Shut off the truck. Recheck the engine oil, nice and clean, no milkshake. Siphon some gasoline out of the tank. Stuff is urine yellow and stinks to high heaven. Put some in a lawn mower and the lawn mower starts billowing white smoke from its exhaust as well.
Noticed that the brake pedal sinks almost to the floor. Had someone suggest that i check the brake booster, for brake fluid. They are suggesting that the master cylinder may be leaking fluid into the booster, and then the vacuum may be sucking fluid from the booster, into the engine, resulting in white smoke.
I will check this weekend for oil in the booster first to try and find the guilty party for the white smoke....as well as drop the fuel tank, clean it out of all the stale fuel, before I assume a blown head gasket is the cause.
I'd be interested in hearing experienced members suggestions on how I should approach this. I am hoping the stumbling, rough idle, white smoke, to all be a combination of bad gasoline (truck sat for well over 1 1/2 with the tank almost full of fuel), brake fluid leaking into the booster and sucked via vacuum, fuel injectors dirty from the old fuel, spark plugs fouled up from the bad fuel and brake fluid (if the brake fluid is in fact, leaking into the booster).
I am not a mechanic, but I am somewhat handy and can follow directions.
Thank you everyone.
#4
Removed my fuel tank, cleaned it out, installed a new fuel pump, replaced the inline fuel filter. Fired up the truck.
Oil is sputtering out of the tailpipe, and the engine is struggling. Oil soaking the plugs certainly won't let them fire properly.
I placed the tailgate across from the tailpipe, to catch the exhaust and oil. You can see here what it's looking like.
So now I need to troubleshoot the oil in the exhaust.
What should I do next here? Thank you all.
Oil is sputtering out of the tailpipe, and the engine is struggling. Oil soaking the plugs certainly won't let them fire properly.
I placed the tailgate across from the tailpipe, to catch the exhaust and oil. You can see here what it's looking like.
So now I need to troubleshoot the oil in the exhaust.
What should I do next here? Thank you all.
#5
Normally Ai'd suggest looking at the intake gaskets for a vacuum and oi leak into the intake port, but these engines have a dry valley, so that's out.
Sometimes valves seize in the guides on engines not run for an extended time period. If an intake guide is scored, that could let oil get into the combustion chamber.
Sometimes valves seize in the guides on engines not run for an extended time period. If an intake guide is scored, that could let oil get into the combustion chamber.
#6
Normally Ai'd suggest looking at the intake gaskets for a vacuum and oi leak into the intake port, but these engines have a dry valley, so that's out.
Sometimes valves seize in the guides on engines not run for an extended time period. If an intake guide is scored, that could let oil get into the combustion chamber.
Sometimes valves seize in the guides on engines not run for an extended time period. If an intake guide is scored, that could let oil get into the combustion chamber.
How would I go about checking valves for seizure?
#7
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#8
I had a mechanic come out this morning to look at my truck.
The test that he did (I'm not privy to the details) showed that with the engine running and the oil fill cap on the valve cover removed, air and oil residue was being blown up and out of the fill hole. His next statement to me was that the engine was done, and it would be cheaper to simply find a junkyard engine to replace it with than to repair the issue.
What would this "test" he performed mean or indicate?
When I suggested if replacing piston rings could not just be done by pulling the heads off, he stated that this motor has a double timing chain that is a nightmare to deal with.
what would be the recommendation of members here? If I had the funds, I'd do this right, by having someone pull the motor and such, but I need to do as much as I can myself as I don't have a lot of money to play with.
Help!!!!
The test that he did (I'm not privy to the details) showed that with the engine running and the oil fill cap on the valve cover removed, air and oil residue was being blown up and out of the fill hole. His next statement to me was that the engine was done, and it would be cheaper to simply find a junkyard engine to replace it with than to repair the issue.
What would this "test" he performed mean or indicate?
When I suggested if replacing piston rings could not just be done by pulling the heads off, he stated that this motor has a double timing chain that is a nightmare to deal with.
what would be the recommendation of members here? If I had the funds, I'd do this right, by having someone pull the motor and such, but I need to do as much as I can myself as I don't have a lot of money to play with.
Help!!!!
#10
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Fort Smith, Arkansas
Posts: 1,908
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11 Posts
I had a mechanic come out this morning to look at my truck.
The test that he did (I'm not privy to the details) showed that with the engine running and the oil fill cap on the valve cover removed, air and oil residue was being blown up and out of the fill hole. His next statement to me was that the engine was done, and it would be cheaper to simply find a junkyard engine to replace it with than to repair the issue.
What would this "test" he performed mean or indicate?
When I suggested if replacing piston rings could not just be done by pulling the heads off, he stated that this motor has a double timing chain that is a nightmare to deal with.
what would be the recommendation of members here? If I had the funds, I'd do this right, by having someone pull the motor and such, but I need to do as much as I can myself as I don't have a lot of money to play with.
Help!!!!
The test that he did (I'm not privy to the details) showed that with the engine running and the oil fill cap on the valve cover removed, air and oil residue was being blown up and out of the fill hole. His next statement to me was that the engine was done, and it would be cheaper to simply find a junkyard engine to replace it with than to repair the issue.
What would this "test" he performed mean or indicate?
When I suggested if replacing piston rings could not just be done by pulling the heads off, he stated that this motor has a double timing chain that is a nightmare to deal with.
what would be the recommendation of members here? If I had the funds, I'd do this right, by having someone pull the motor and such, but I need to do as much as I can myself as I don't have a lot of money to play with.
Help!!!!
#11
Thank you sir. Now to re-evaluate my options with this. What I thought would be a good deal, seems to be turning into a turd with dollar signs attached.
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