Unfortunately the TQ app doesn't have a gauge for FIPW.
I do understand what you are saying and may have seen something similar when towing with DPTuner. I was feathering the throttle back, trying to hold EGTs steady and noticed the IPR spikes really high 80-95%, and stays there. I thought that was really odd since I was not at full throttle and even backing off.
When I switched to stock, it never did that, the IPR just held steady at 40-50%.

 

PM'd ya back, and it's Razzi with an A

 

I'm glad I have this opportunity to help out.

Fuel Injector Pulse Width
Short Name: FIPW
PID: 221410
Units: ms
Max/Min: 6.0/0.0
Equation: ((A*256)+B)*.008
0.6 ms is "Standby", you need at least 1.2 ms for the injector to work, 3 ms is MAX for a running engine, and 6 ms is MAX for a cranking engine.

Top right corner on the tablet:



If your IPR is approaching 50% at WOT in a stock tune, then something needs to be looked into. If you are looking at peak values on Torque Pro, then you can be "tricked" into thinking you have a problem. While cranking to start, the engine will throw some pretty scary peak values at TP, so I never use the peak indicator if I started TP before the engine.

As for the HPOP, I've been in this conversation on countless 7.3Ls with high pressure oil leaks, and barely a handful with actual HPOP problems. The most common "adventure" is to have a high-mile rig, throw a tune on it, and have the high ICP "break the camel's back" with O-ring seals on the HPO system.

The actual worst-case scenario is a long FIPW on a hot tune. I mentioned peak values before - here is an interesting one: The ICP will show a crazy peak value of something like 3600 PSI after a WOT run on a hot tune, but you'll never see that with your foot down. What you see is the tune being "tricked" when you lift your foot and the tune is all wrapped up in putting the stirrups to the ponies. After being spiked that hard, the ponies don't just stop - they need a sec to settle down. At the instant the fuel to the injectors is cut off (lifted foot shuts the FIPW off), the PCM is hammering away at the HPOP with 90% IPR (ICP DC) - and it takes time to back off. The IPR can quickly drop 40%, but that last bit is going to take a while. So... what you get as a result is what I call a "Stinky Spike" - the ICP is in an uproar, and there's nowhere to go.




I say "worst case" because many people paid more for the tuner and tunes than they would have for a T500 - but it's the tune itself that makes you think you need a T500.

 

Well I just learned a whole bunch of new stuff, now I need to check my own FIPW and see what it's at. Granted big sticks and whatnot, but the SGii has it as an option I just never use it.

Thanks Rich!

 

Lots of good info. I'll check again if my TQ App has the FIPW, if not i'll try and program it in and get some new vids.

I watched my original videos again and really watched the HPOP and IPR. It is doing as you say.
Stock HPOP: ~2700 (no spike), IPR maxes at ~38%
Tow HPOP: less than 2000 (spikes to ~3600), IPR maxes at ~86%
80Eco HPOP: less than 2000 (spikes to 3200, IPR maxes at 81%

So basically what you are saying is to dump the DPTuner as it causing all this (incl high EGTs), before looking into the T500.
Any suggestions for a good tuner?

Thanks

 

I think what he's saying is check your FIPW and see if it's astronomical. If it is, have DP readjust it to something more reasonable.

Personally I had a bad experience or four with DP, and left them for Gearhead. To each their own, experiences differ. I like having a local tuner and the Gearhead guys are up in Tyler so it's only an hour away. They email me new tunes, but it's still nice having them close by

 

Matt is one of my Gearhead converts....

I too had a bad experience with DP and the thought of having a free inspection window and/or me having to replace an engine and transmission because someone can't admit their tuning was the problem....

 

Aggie, if you'd like I can send you a PM with my experiences between the two tuners in question. Not going to express it in the public eye as in the past, it has gotten me a LOT of hate mail.

Regardless, Rich is almost always on point with his advice and knowledge of the 7.3 and it's parameters. If he says check your FIPW, you would be well off checking the FIPW. Between him and Razzi I have been saved many a chase and a LOT of money verifying things were right before throwing parts at things.

 

I reside in the 7.3L forum, and DP is the sponsor there. Take into account people are not eager to hear they just wasted hundreds of dollars on their tune selection, and DP bashing will have that group put a pox on your house.

I want to educate, not spread my opinion to the world in the hope it will grow. The difference between sharing an opinion and educating is backing it up with empirical evidence, and sharing the process so you can verify the problem and make your own informed decision. Like Krazee Matt said, it's best to check if I've diagnosed this correctly - I haven't seen your FIPW to really know. However... this is one of few things I'd bet real money on, because I'm saving up for a boat.

Without sharing opinion - here's a history lesson: Had DP - weird symptoms at WOT, bought AE. This is where I should point out that tuners were having a party until AE, Torque Pro, FORScan, Dash Command, and other logging apps figuratively took a pee in the punch bowl. ScanGuage and other consumer products were around for a while, but they didn't log - and it's the readings over time through an event that can analyze the chemical makeup of the Kool-Aid. Worked with Jody - I probably had 30 iterations of my tunes (I stopped counting). Threw in towel, got a Hydra and somebody else to tune. Partying ever since. Traded my F6 for some help with my injector cups - gave the recipient fair warning. He went on to get many iterations of tunes for his truck... before he yanked the chip and sold the truck.

I should point this out: Before I swapped tuners, I was urged to replace my HPOP - and I installed a T500. It helped a lot, but I still had the same problem - just to a lesser degree. I have data to back this up.

Tyler, eh? My son and his family live in Tyler.

 

Perhaps I was a little to blunt with my previous post and didn't intend to put people on the spot.

I've had the DPTuner for about 3yrs and have been very happy with it as it was highly recommended. I probably would have continued to be happy had I not had these POTENTIAL fueling issues (perhaps not even related to the DPTuner) but they have caused me to dig deeper and uncover other items.

So far its one step at a time.
1. I did get the FIPW gauge on my TQ Pro and will get 3 more vids to compare.
2. This weekend its going to fun dropping the tank to inspect the in-tank mixing filters for clogging up. Also preventive measure to remove them and install the Hutch Mod (parts on the shelf) and do the Harpoon Mod.
3. More comparison vids
4. ???

Thanks for the time and help.

 

More Vids, Now with Fuel Inj Pulse Width !!!

Stock

Tow

80Eco

I also played around with my TQ Pro and recorded some data streams of the same runs.

Stock



Tow




80Eco
Part 1



Part 2

 

So things I noticed were for the FIPW

Stock: Maxes ~3300
Tow: Maxes ~4600
80Eco: Maxes ~4700

The line traces are much easier to read but don't give exact numbers. Pausing the videos you can see the Max value (I reset them before each run).

So what do you guys think???

 

I think I've seen this a gabillion times. If anybody had taken me up on my bet, I'd be closer to buying my boat.

You can ask Jody to get the FIPW down to something closer to stock, then see if he gets it done - or if he tries to sell you a T500 or a live tune. The T500 will help, but it can't cover the whole problem. Live tuning will likely get it done, but that same money will get another chip and tuner in Texas.

 

Bold, italics, and underlined.....

See if he gets it done?!? He'll argue tooth and nail with you that HIS tuning isn't the problem and that you have a problem with YOUR perfectly healthy truck. Skip the BS you're about to be put through, sell your F5, F6, or whatever you bought from Jody and get yourself either the Hydra or the TS chip. I've done that song and dance with Jody; he sent me on a wild sensor chase and then had the ***** to suggest that I needed to pay for HIM to come live tune my truck to figure out what the problem was with HIS F'ing tuning!!!!!

I had an F5, had to pay for the upgrade to an F6 because I didn't have money to keep shipping my chip overnight to and from Jody, had to pay "licensing fees" to convert the tunes for the F6, only to have the problem get worse, and nothing get resolved.

"How did I know it was his tuning?" Great question!

When you pull the chip from your PCM and the truck runs like it should on stock tuning, not missing a beat, AND THEN you drive to College Station, buy someone else's chip, put it on your PCM and it STILL runs great 4 years later; that says a lot!

 

So that's good news and bad news.
Good news, its not MY TRUCK that's messed up.
Bad news, I have a modification in my truck causing an issue.

Plan...
I still need to verify that MY TRUCK is operating at/or close to 100%.
-I'm still going to drop my tank to check the in-tank filters (verify if they are clogged or not) and still install the Hutch Mod for preventive measures.
-Do I need to install Fuel pressure gauges, to verify lift pump (low pressure) and after fuel bowl (high pressure) are operating correctly?
-I'm assuming based on my data runs that the HPOP and Injectors are OK but perhaps a little tired?

The issue now is I've spent all my budget for Truck Mods for the year.
I may be able scrape enough together enough for either a T500 or a custom tune (probably a local TX tuner...).

So what do you guys think? You've been down this road before...
A. Leave it how it is and save $$ for next yr? Will the DPTuner potentially ruin something?
B. Beg and plead with Wife to get a T500, keep DPTuner?
C. Beg and plead with Wife to get a custom tune (local), keep current HPOP?


Thanks for you're knowledge and experience.