What's The Best Oil For My 6.0 SD
#91
Originally Posted by KurtNJr
I looked at a jug of the new Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic at Wal-Mart this weekend and it only has CH-4 rating, not CI-4. Regular Rotella T now has the CI-4 rating listed on the container. They are both cheap compared to Mobile Delvac 1 that I am using but the truck runs great with none of the idle problems some experience so I am sticking with the Delvac 1. I will not run it past 7500 miles at most and figure the extra cost is worth the peace of mind and good performance.
#92
Haven’t read the whole thread but thought I would throw in a little bit for new guys to understand better.
“This latest category, technically called CI-4, was developed in response to recent changes in the EPA's rules governing emissions from on-highway diesel engines. These strict regulations have forced most engine makers to start using cooled-exhaust-gas recirculation, or EGR, a technology that routes a portion of the exhaust stream back into the cylinders where it helps lower peak flame temperatures and the formation of oxides of nitrogen, the primary target of the EPA's mandate. The new lubes are designed to handle the extra soot, acid and heat generated inside EGR engines.”<O></O>
“CI-4 oil is built with greater wear protection, more thermal stability, improved oxidation control and increased soot-handling capabilities. This combination of factors should offer longer drain intervals and, ultimately, lower operating costs, says Dan Larkin, technical advisor for ExxonMobil. Larkin is intimately familiar with the CI-4 category. Formerly with Detroit Diesel Corporation, he was the chairman of the group that drafted the initial set of oil performance requirements for EGR engines.”<O></O>
“In the current alphanumeric jargon, “C” means compression ignition, and “4” stands for four-stroke. The middle letter, “I” in this case, changes with each new level of performance.”<O
<O
Quotes from http://farmindustrynews.com/mag/farming_best_oil_bestkept/ <O></O>
Hope this helps a little<O
might also look at this page
http://api-ec.api.org/about/index.cf...02003002000000
good links and info from API themselves
<O
Brad<O
“This latest category, technically called CI-4, was developed in response to recent changes in the EPA's rules governing emissions from on-highway diesel engines. These strict regulations have forced most engine makers to start using cooled-exhaust-gas recirculation, or EGR, a technology that routes a portion of the exhaust stream back into the cylinders where it helps lower peak flame temperatures and the formation of oxides of nitrogen, the primary target of the EPA's mandate. The new lubes are designed to handle the extra soot, acid and heat generated inside EGR engines.”<O></O>
“CI-4 oil is built with greater wear protection, more thermal stability, improved oxidation control and increased soot-handling capabilities. This combination of factors should offer longer drain intervals and, ultimately, lower operating costs, says Dan Larkin, technical advisor for ExxonMobil. Larkin is intimately familiar with the CI-4 category. Formerly with Detroit Diesel Corporation, he was the chairman of the group that drafted the initial set of oil performance requirements for EGR engines.”<O></O>
“In the current alphanumeric jargon, “C” means compression ignition, and “4” stands for four-stroke. The middle letter, “I” in this case, changes with each new level of performance.”<O
<O
Quotes from http://farmindustrynews.com/mag/farming_best_oil_bestkept/ <O></O>
Hope this helps a little<O
might also look at this page
http://api-ec.api.org/about/index.cf...02003002000000
good links and info from API themselves
<O
Brad<O
Last edited by hbguy; 07-15-2004 at 02:12 AM.
#93
Originally Posted by KurtNJr
I looked at a jug of the new Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic at Wal-Mart this weekend and it only has CH-4 rating, not CI-4. Regular Rotella T now has the CI-4 rating listed on the container. They are both cheap compared to Mobile Delvac 1 that I am using but the truck runs great with none of the idle problems some experience so I am sticking with the Delvac 1. I will not run it past 7500 miles at most and figure the extra cost is worth the peace of mind and good performance.
Meets or exceeds the diesel engine requirements of API CI-4, , Cummins CES 20078, Detroit Diesel, John Deere, Dodge, Ford, GM, International, Mack EO-N Premium Plus 03, Volvo and others. For gasoline engines, it exceeds API SL.
#94
1st oil change
I just purchaed oil and filter for my first oil change at 1200 miles. I went with the Wix filter, but the receipt states that it is for the F-350 and I have the F-250. I know the suspentions are different between the two, but the the motors are identical.....right? The Wix part number is 57314. I just want to be sure I have the right parts before I do the deed. Is $23 for the filter a rip-off or pretty standard?
BTW, I went with the Delo 400 15-40 ($7.69/gal). For the Texas summers I figured the 15-40 would do fine. Has anyone had any problems with using 15-40 the rolling idle in the summer?
I also have my Futumo valve ready to install. FTE is a great source of info!
BTW, I went with the Delo 400 15-40 ($7.69/gal). For the Texas summers I figured the 15-40 would do fine. Has anyone had any problems with using 15-40 the rolling idle in the summer?
I also have my Futumo valve ready to install. FTE is a great source of info!
#95
i just got some Mobil Delvac 1 synth. 5w40 from a dealer this afternoon for my i think 4 change 15,000. i got my FUMOTO valve ready as well. cool little item. Cant wait to try it out. Oil to high on the stick just open her up and take out half a quart or so. I also got the one with the nipple on it so i can drain right into some gallon milk juggs and take to discount auto for free disposal. Should work out nicely.
#96
Tim, you run the OilGuard W/ the MD1 that thing must be smooooooooth. Im not leasing so i want it to be the best for the the logest it can be. So it will last the 300,000 i want out of it (or more) so you recommend the Oil Guard as well as the MD1, i thought the MD1 was enough. I mean the cheapest i can get down here in Fort Lauderdale FL, is $96 for a 4 gallon case. online is like low 80's but with the $15-$20 in shipping it does't make sence when i can just go pick it up that day for the same price. Sorry for the long post really just curious about your opinion or anyones at the about using the MD1 in conjunction with the Oil Guard. thanks . I am also guessing that i wont get to use my nice new fumoto valve. Does the drain on the oilpan with the Oil Guard similiar with a quick flow or do you have to take out the SPECIAL Oil Guard pan nut to drain the oil. I was excited about using the fumoto with the nippple and a hose attached so i can drain right into galllon jugs for easy use. sorry again for the long post. thanks for all input
#97
#99
No matter what oil you are using Dont forget oil analysis. Oil is the lifeblood of these engines and can tell you a lot about whats going on with the engine and oil. A fuel injector malfunction could show up with extra dilution of the oil. This could save you from ruining a engine before serious damage occurs. It will tell you if the oil change interval is right or not. Wear metals and so forth. With these expensive engines its pretty cheap insurance to tell you whats going on instead of just guessing.
#100
Originally Posted by jdadamsjr
Are they both CI-4 rated ?
I looked yesterday and my little podunk wally world didn't even have the truck/SUV and I thought I looked for another synthetci, but couldn't find it...
I looked yesterday and my little podunk wally world didn't even have the truck/SUV and I thought I looked for another synthetci, but couldn't find it...
#101
Well Guess What Guys.....I used to use the Rotella T in 15/40 but found the Motorcraft 15w40 in Walmart, switched and thought that was the best thing I've ever done. My gas mileage went from 15mpg to about 20 mpg. I figure that I'm safe as well since I'm using their own product in their own truck! It is a good oil despite what they write about it and was about $1.66 a quart. Anyway...just thought I'd throw that out there. My truck is a 2003 with the new 6.0 liter diesel. Another thing is that this oil says it meets the CI-4/SL requirment, not just CI-4. Anyway...again..go figure.
#102
Hey yall,
I have a 03 6.0 i have ran Rotella 15-40 in my truck for most of its life i now have 25000 miles. We also have a 99 7.3 and we run rotella in it and it has 130000 miles on it. i have found that the Rotella makes my 6.0 smoke a little more when the turbo is kicked in, but i find it cool. i get my oil filter at Advanced for $19
I have a 03 6.0 i have ran Rotella 15-40 in my truck for most of its life i now have 25000 miles. We also have a 99 7.3 and we run rotella in it and it has 130000 miles on it. i have found that the Rotella makes my 6.0 smoke a little more when the turbo is kicked in, but i find it cool. i get my oil filter at Advanced for $19
#103
Thanks for all the good info posted throughout this link. I've learned a lot by reading...and reading........and reading. :-) Anyway, I'm leaning toward the MD1 and the Racor filters. Here's a couple concerns I have:
1) Although the responsibility is Ford's to prove damage was done by something you've done before they can refuse repair, I am concerned about extending the oil change interval. I know (and a lot of you know) that extended oil changes should be fine as long as you do regular Oil Analysis check-ups... The one thing that people tend to forget about oil is that it isn't only the lubrication characteristics that make oil approved. There's also a lot of additives. If the quantity of additives drop below an allowed value, the oil can degrade QUICKLY (hence the frequent Oil Analysis).
2) and this one's kinda for Lariat... first, thanks for all the great info. next, I was checking out the Oilguard system...very cool. I just bought one of the Fumoto Oil drains and it looks like you get a special oil plug to fit the supply line onto. What does the Oilguard drain plug look like, and do you remove the plug to drain the oil (or does it have a separate drain valve)?
3) For those of you that are getting 18-20 MPG...bite me :-) I'm still breaking in and am only getting about 14 MPG.
thanks again, Rob
1) Although the responsibility is Ford's to prove damage was done by something you've done before they can refuse repair, I am concerned about extending the oil change interval. I know (and a lot of you know) that extended oil changes should be fine as long as you do regular Oil Analysis check-ups... The one thing that people tend to forget about oil is that it isn't only the lubrication characteristics that make oil approved. There's also a lot of additives. If the quantity of additives drop below an allowed value, the oil can degrade QUICKLY (hence the frequent Oil Analysis).
2) and this one's kinda for Lariat... first, thanks for all the great info. next, I was checking out the Oilguard system...very cool. I just bought one of the Fumoto Oil drains and it looks like you get a special oil plug to fit the supply line onto. What does the Oilguard drain plug look like, and do you remove the plug to drain the oil (or does it have a separate drain valve)?
3) For those of you that are getting 18-20 MPG...bite me :-) I'm still breaking in and am only getting about 14 MPG.
thanks again, Rob
#104
Originally Posted by P3NFO
Thanks for all the good info posted throughout this link. I've learned a lot by reading...and reading........and reading. :-) Anyway, I'm leaning toward the MD1 and the Racor filters. Here's a couple concerns I have:
1) Although the responsibility is Ford's to prove damage was done by something you've done before they can refuse repair, I am concerned about extending the oil change interval. I know (and a lot of you know) that extended oil changes should be fine as long as you do regular Oil Analysis check-ups... The one thing that people tend to forget about oil is that it isn't only the lubrication characteristics that make oil approved. There's also a lot of additives. If the quantity of additives drop below an allowed value, the oil can degrade QUICKLY (hence the frequent Oil Analysis).
2) and this one's kinda for Lariat... first, thanks for all the great info. next, I was checking out the Oilguard system...very cool. I just bought one of the Fumoto Oil drains and it looks like you get a special oil plug to fit the supply line onto. What does the Oilguard drain plug look like, and do you remove the plug to drain the oil (or does it have a separate drain valve)?
3) For those of you that are getting 18-20 MPG...bite me :-) I'm still breaking in and am only getting about 14 MPG.
thanks again, Rob
1) Although the responsibility is Ford's to prove damage was done by something you've done before they can refuse repair, I am concerned about extending the oil change interval. I know (and a lot of you know) that extended oil changes should be fine as long as you do regular Oil Analysis check-ups... The one thing that people tend to forget about oil is that it isn't only the lubrication characteristics that make oil approved. There's also a lot of additives. If the quantity of additives drop below an allowed value, the oil can degrade QUICKLY (hence the frequent Oil Analysis).
2) and this one's kinda for Lariat... first, thanks for all the great info. next, I was checking out the Oilguard system...very cool. I just bought one of the Fumoto Oil drains and it looks like you get a special oil plug to fit the supply line onto. What does the Oilguard drain plug look like, and do you remove the plug to drain the oil (or does it have a separate drain valve)?
3) For those of you that are getting 18-20 MPG...bite me :-) I'm still breaking in and am only getting about 14 MPG.
thanks again, Rob
As with all oil threads...ug...however, I do run MD1 and the oil-guard.
I only pull with my truck and do it for long distances and long hours.
This last trip was 3145 miles, I only turned the motor off once in 15 hours and 45 minutes of pulling....use GPS...The first half of the trip I climbed 34,987 vertical feet. Lowest 182 feet the highest mountain was 7764, hottest temperature was 107 ambient. Coldest 48.
so I change at 5k never longer.
Oil Guard is a great product easy to use.
#105