What's The Best Oil For My 6.0 SD
#61
#63
i have only pulled light trailers,5000 lb max. fuel mileage without trailer is 18.5.....80% hiway, 20% town, with trailer is 16.2. figured by hand.
my main concern with oil analysis right now is just checking diesel fuel % in oil, just trying to be safe and set a baseline. i plan take a fuel sample every 3,000mi. and let blackstone tell me what i need to do as far as actually changing oil, after i go back to delvac1 next oil change.
you kind of have to take some samples to find out whats normal.
i will post my results.
i ran mobil 1 in my van, changing oil every 10,000 mi. (it was a gasser). when i finally put it to rest it had 320,000 mi. on it.
mobil makes good stuff.
my main concern with oil analysis right now is just checking diesel fuel % in oil, just trying to be safe and set a baseline. i plan take a fuel sample every 3,000mi. and let blackstone tell me what i need to do as far as actually changing oil, after i go back to delvac1 next oil change.
you kind of have to take some samples to find out whats normal.
i will post my results.
i ran mobil 1 in my van, changing oil every 10,000 mi. (it was a gasser). when i finally put it to rest it had 320,000 mi. on it.
mobil makes good stuff.
#64
Originally posted by Canine 582
Thanks for the imfo. ITS A START----------- ANYMORE???
Did you first notice this just after the oil change.
Thanks for the imfo. ITS A START----------- ANYMORE???
Did you first notice this just after the oil change.
My truck ran as smooth as the proverbial "babies bottom"
Had no issues until oil change....obviously oil related. Engine has less romp with a lower oil level...I run the level about 1/3 up from the bottom of the hash mark.
Cheers,
Bryce
#65
All of these posts are supporting what I have said so far, and what I had told the Ford rep that they should recommend for helping to ease their problems with this engine. This is certainly not a cure all, especially for trucks that have mechanical problems, and because there is so much variation in production tolerances, it may not work for all trucks, but if it helps some??? Worth the try, to me.
Again, the lower oil level shows up. There may have been a miscalculation of the oil capacity, even by the dip stick, although mine is running fine on the full mark.(Again production tolerances) Keep it up fellas. Just maybe there is something to to this{:^).
DucatiSSsp, I would not mix the oil. Change wholely to the Mobil Delvac1 and use a by-pass filter and analysis. You won't be sorry. Even if you only extend your drain, 3 times, which is VERY easy, you still come out ahead, in time and labor, and you really know what is going on inside your engine. This last part, is the biggest benefit.
Lariat
Lariat
Again, the lower oil level shows up. There may have been a miscalculation of the oil capacity, even by the dip stick, although mine is running fine on the full mark.(Again production tolerances) Keep it up fellas. Just maybe there is something to to this{:^).
DucatiSSsp, I would not mix the oil. Change wholely to the Mobil Delvac1 and use a by-pass filter and analysis. You won't be sorry. Even if you only extend your drain, 3 times, which is VERY easy, you still come out ahead, in time and labor, and you really know what is going on inside your engine. This last part, is the biggest benefit.
Lariat
Lariat
#66
#67
#68
On the previous page, Canine 582 asked if Mobil Delvac 1300 Super was synthetic and if it was any good. It is not synthetic and I use it with no problems so far.
Also on the previous page, Colorado-native asked if the oil filter from NAPA was the same filter that Ford used. The NAPA-Gold 7314 has the exact same markings on it that my factory original filter had.
Also on the previous page, Colorado-native asked if the oil filter from NAPA was the same filter that Ford used. The NAPA-Gold 7314 has the exact same markings on it that my factory original filter had.
#69
Tim, OilGuard, IS NOT a full flow filter. If you read Debugs post, it appears that ALL these filters for this engine, are made by Racor. My Racor filter has the exact markings and colors of materials as the Ford filter. I bought the OEM to be sure of what I was getting. So it seems that these filters just have different boxes. I would not count on that though, if FRAM is making one. That would be a knock off piece of garbage, and I would be skeptical to use it, even if it had the same markings and all......
Debug. There are just as many of you guys out there with engines that run good ALL THE TIME. Production tolerance variations are mostly what is causing the problems seen, and why some are good, and some are bad. Like I have said before, if it works for your engine, and you want to do regular oil changes, that is the best for you.
Lariat
Debug. There are just as many of you guys out there with engines that run good ALL THE TIME. Production tolerance variations are mostly what is causing the problems seen, and why some are good, and some are bad. Like I have said before, if it works for your engine, and you want to do regular oil changes, that is the best for you.
Lariat
#70
Lariat, ok stupid is permanent and ignorant is only temporary…………so I only am ignorant right now…. so…I know that I will use, Mobil Delvac1, and an oil-guard system. That notwithstanding, my understanding of the oil-guard system is you use it in conjunction with the stock oil filter…
Now if I have that part correct, then my question would be what stock filter should one use.
tim
I know I can get this correct.............hum
Now if I have that part correct, then my question would be what stock filter should one use.
tim
I know I can get this correct.............hum
#71
Larait:
This is for you. Never owning a diesel before and knowing what the Ford OM says about the drain intervils, annnnnnnnnnd knowing how you fill about the Mobil Delvac 1, how far would you go between changes using this oil?
1. I'll pull a 5ver 2000 out of every 10000 miles
2. I'll have a analysis done (everything being ok)
Thanks
This is for you. Never owning a diesel before and knowing what the Ford OM says about the drain intervils, annnnnnnnnnd knowing how you fill about the Mobil Delvac 1, how far would you go between changes using this oil?
1. I'll pull a 5ver 2000 out of every 10000 miles
2. I'll have a analysis done (everything being ok)
Thanks
#72
Tim,
Any Filter MANUFACTURED by Racor(they make um for all the filters being sold, it seems). They will all have the same printing on the filter itself if it is the correct manufacturer. They can be sold under RACOR, FORD MOTORCRAFT OEM, NAPA GOLD. Just not FRAM. Sorry, I don't know of any more than these. They are expensive. Around $20 a pop. Believe me, you get what you pay for in these things. IF you get one for $5 or $6 bucks, leave it on the shelf. Not worth risking that new motor on something this cheap. That is unless Wally World starts carrying the Motocraft filter for that price!!! By the way, Oilguard says that you can also extend the filter change interval, because the bulk of the work is being performed by the oilguard filter. Give Mark or Roy a call.
Canine,
If the by-pass sytem is used, or even if it is not, you have to trend the motor. That is do analysis more frequently in the beginning, to determine a usable cycle. Anaysis will tell you the specifics. Most labs will also recomend a time in mileage in which you can continue to use the oil. Anaylsis is the best toool to determine oil longevity in your vehicle. Driving habits, fuel used, idle time, time of year, the vehicle itself, and of course severity of use, all detrmine how quickly the oil's additive package gets used up. You should easily double the drain interval. After that analysis, will keep tabs on it for you. Do analysis at about 1000 miles before you would normally change the oil. This allows time for the lab to do it's thing. Then go by what they say. This is after you have switched to the synthetic. But do include a by-pass filter. Saves the additive package by reducing it's work load. Also eliminates the particle sizes, which can get in the oil film around bearings and the like, and still be big enough to grind into the bearing, causing scoring.
My personal experience, I only changed the oil in my last engine 3 times in 10 years of running after synthetics installed. Never because the analysis said to do it, just cuz I wanted to. That engine OM said a MAX of 2500 miles or 3 months. Consumed less oil at it's tenth year than it did in it's first, and I still see it running around.
Lariat
Any Filter MANUFACTURED by Racor(they make um for all the filters being sold, it seems). They will all have the same printing on the filter itself if it is the correct manufacturer. They can be sold under RACOR, FORD MOTORCRAFT OEM, NAPA GOLD. Just not FRAM. Sorry, I don't know of any more than these. They are expensive. Around $20 a pop. Believe me, you get what you pay for in these things. IF you get one for $5 or $6 bucks, leave it on the shelf. Not worth risking that new motor on something this cheap. That is unless Wally World starts carrying the Motocraft filter for that price!!! By the way, Oilguard says that you can also extend the filter change interval, because the bulk of the work is being performed by the oilguard filter. Give Mark or Roy a call.
Canine,
If the by-pass sytem is used, or even if it is not, you have to trend the motor. That is do analysis more frequently in the beginning, to determine a usable cycle. Anaysis will tell you the specifics. Most labs will also recomend a time in mileage in which you can continue to use the oil. Anaylsis is the best toool to determine oil longevity in your vehicle. Driving habits, fuel used, idle time, time of year, the vehicle itself, and of course severity of use, all detrmine how quickly the oil's additive package gets used up. You should easily double the drain interval. After that analysis, will keep tabs on it for you. Do analysis at about 1000 miles before you would normally change the oil. This allows time for the lab to do it's thing. Then go by what they say. This is after you have switched to the synthetic. But do include a by-pass filter. Saves the additive package by reducing it's work load. Also eliminates the particle sizes, which can get in the oil film around bearings and the like, and still be big enough to grind into the bearing, causing scoring.
My personal experience, I only changed the oil in my last engine 3 times in 10 years of running after synthetics installed. Never because the analysis said to do it, just cuz I wanted to. That engine OM said a MAX of 2500 miles or 3 months. Consumed less oil at it's tenth year than it did in it's first, and I still see it running around.
Lariat
#73
#75
i had the same questions when i bought my 6.0l
i called ford to check on acceptable oil grades, because shell came out with a 5w40 synthetic, but after talking to ford i have shyed away. it was expressed to me that even though it met ci4
and ch4 specs it would void the warrenty if the vehicle was brought in for a problem involving oil related maintenance, and the viscosity levels of an oil sample came back low. so i use shell rotella15w40, but was also highly recomended to use mobil delvac 1300 15w40. the use of 10w 30 during cold temps seems to be impossible since there is no one i found that carrys a ci4 or ch4 acceptable 10w30. although you can buy caterpillar 10/30 which does meet specs, if you have access to it. i have not seen a need for it. i have started my 6.0 on days below zero with no trouble using 15w40 , because i forgot to plug it in. oil pressure came up as normal.
i called ford to check on acceptable oil grades, because shell came out with a 5w40 synthetic, but after talking to ford i have shyed away. it was expressed to me that even though it met ci4
and ch4 specs it would void the warrenty if the vehicle was brought in for a problem involving oil related maintenance, and the viscosity levels of an oil sample came back low. so i use shell rotella15w40, but was also highly recomended to use mobil delvac 1300 15w40. the use of 10w 30 during cold temps seems to be impossible since there is no one i found that carrys a ci4 or ch4 acceptable 10w30. although you can buy caterpillar 10/30 which does meet specs, if you have access to it. i have not seen a need for it. i have started my 6.0 on days below zero with no trouble using 15w40 , because i forgot to plug it in. oil pressure came up as normal.