When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm rebuilding a '95 5.8 to go in a '52... subsequently I can be emissions-free.
So even though I took photos during the tear-down, now that I'm putting it back together I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed (did I mention this is my first engine build?).
I'll be leaving off the air pump and the PS pump... so not sure what that means for belts, for starters. Guess I'm looking for the best manual and/or diagrams for this motor — so many "things" (hoses, wires, brackets, vacuum lines, sensors, doohickeys, etc).
EGR is a separate system from smog and cannot be deleted without setting codes, but the whole air injection system can be removed no problem and it including the air pump and all associated hoses and valves, just make sure the holes in the back of the heads(f150 motor) or the exhaust manifolds(F250 motor) are plugged and the TAB/TAD solenoid/s near the coil remain electrically connected. If you are installing headers you can disable EGR by leaving the tube off and plugging the hole in the intake so no fresh air gets in but the valve must remain in place with both the electrical and vacuum attached to keep the computer happy. Alternatively adding a bung to the header isn't that hard and functioning EGR does improve gas milage slightly and reduces the engines sensitivity to detonation.
A,C & D (muffler) are your AIR injection system & can be removed if you leave the solenoids on the intake electrically connected as Paul said. The cross over pipe between heads can be removed & the ports under there are threaded for 5/8ths bolt, coarse (11TPI) threads. Or you can buy spec plugs from a Fox Mustang supplier.
Save the parts, good used ones could be sold later.
195* on the stat.
Its somewhat trick to keep your EGR vac supply & the missing vac reservoir (that little red hose,3 port black vac connector goes to it), but can be done.
is this motor speed density or mass air (how do i tell)?
There is nothing SD or MAF specific about a motor itself that is determined by the EFI control system, so if you have all the intake plumbing out to the airbox it will include a MAF meter if the system is MAF, and if it doesn't have that sensor then it's SD. A MAF meter is a large aluminum cylinder with a heated sensor in it so it would be pretty obvious, see below.
Just go to ebay & do a search for a actual 95 F series Ford manual, (shop & EVTM) on disc. Between that & FTE there's nothing you can't accomplish in your build.
(On edit, That looks to be an E4OD, you want to keep that? Its doable. How much of the doaner truck do you have access too or is it long gone? )
i'll look through my tubs of "stuff" from the tear-down, but that MAF cylinder does not look familiar.
i'm not too concerned (at least not yet) -- not looking to build a race motor... someone just told me that MAF will be more agreeable to mods than SD. basically i've rebuilt this motor .30 over with flat-top pistons to bump compression a bit. stock cam, stock rebuilt heads (for now), but will run headers. no smog. no PS. no AC. based on this thread i'll have to figure out what to do with EGR. mostly i'm concerned about what to do for belts?? serpentine? custom length? don't want a bunch of idler pulleys hanging off the front.
Scndsin, the plan is to run an E4OD... though not that particular one -- i sold that since the donor chasis was a 4x4, so turned around and bought another from a RWD. i do have the harness (though i could kick myself for not pulling the mounts first on the one i sold). along those lines i'm also looking for recommendations for a shifter. sounds like only one aftermarket floor shifter for E4OD which is kinda spendy and not a great match for the era. we'll see.
06-14-2016, 10:58 PM
more help please
