Strange engine sounds and transmission woes...
#1
06-14-2016, 10:39 AM
Strange engine sounds and transmission woes...
Ever since I cut the muffler off my truck, it makes a weird huffing noise at idle. No idea what it is, and how to fix it... Here's a video of the sound of the engine bay and the sound from the exhaust.
Also, my OD light has been flashing and I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes and all they could get were codes 62, 65 and 67. They got them once and then they couldn't get the codes at all after that. Another system is that my tach doesn't work at all.
Any ideas?
Also, my OD light has been flashing and I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes and all they could get were codes 62, 65 and 67. They got them once and then they couldn't get the codes at all after that. Another system is that my tach doesn't work at all.
Any ideas?
#2
06-14-2016, 12:59 PM
#3
06-14-2016, 01:18 PM
Sorry I'm late to answer your burning question. Sometimes I have to work. I don't get paid enough for this gig to be sitting at my computer at all times to answer any questions that might come up.
Before trying to fix the trans codes fix the tach. The tach sensor is visible in your video just to the right of the oil fill cap. Either the sensor is bad, or the wires are damaged, or both.
They couldn't get the codes again because they unknowingly erased them. But you have them. Until the tach is working the codes don't mean much.
Before trying to fix the trans codes fix the tach. The tach sensor is visible in your video just to the right of the oil fill cap. Either the sensor is bad, or the wires are damaged, or both.
They couldn't get the codes again because they unknowingly erased them. But you have them. Until the tach is working the codes don't mean much.
#4
06-14-2016, 01:32 PM
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Sorry I'm late to answer your burning question. Sometimes I have to work. I don't get paid enough for this gig to be sitting at my computer at all times to answer any questions that might come up.
Before trying to fix the trans codes fix the tach. The tach sensor is visible in your video just to the right of the oil fill cap. Either the sensor is bad, or the wires are damaged, or both.
They couldn't get the codes again because they unknowingly erased them. But you have them. Until the tach is working the codes don't mean much.
Before trying to fix the trans codes fix the tach. The tach sensor is visible in your video just to the right of the oil fill cap. Either the sensor is bad, or the wires are damaged, or both.
They couldn't get the codes again because they unknowingly erased them. But you have them. Until the tach is working the codes don't mean much.
Also, funny atory, went out and started my truck and the tach is working and the OD light isn't flashing...this is the first time in the week I've owned it that this has happened. The only thing different is that it's raining outside...strange
#5
06-14-2016, 08:50 PM
#6
06-15-2016, 01:42 AM
It does have that sound of a dead hole - either bad injector, burned valve or holed piston. It's not likely but don't rule out a bad fuel distributor. In essence, one hole ain't hitting worth doodle-squat.
A quick way to figure out which hole is dead is to use a type of crayon that diesel mechs use to mark the exhaust manifolds at the ports. The dead hole burns the mark off last, if at all. Some auto parts stores used to carry this stuff, back some years ago.
Noting odd about that tach issue, it just needs to be repaired. Mark pointed that out.
A quick way to figure out which hole is dead is to use a type of crayon that diesel mechs use to mark the exhaust manifolds at the ports. The dead hole burns the mark off last, if at all. Some auto parts stores used to carry this stuff, back some years ago.
Noting odd about that tach issue, it just needs to be repaired. Mark pointed that out.
#7
06-15-2016, 03:23 AM
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#8
06-15-2016, 08:39 AM
Originally Posted by tjc transport
my bet is a bad injector.
Originally Posted by raystankewitz
It does have that sound of a dead hole - either bad injector, burned valve or holed piston. It's not likely but don't rule out a bad fuel distributor. In essence, one hole ain't hitting worth doodle-squat.
A quick way to figure out which hole is dead is to use a type of crayon that diesel mechs use to mark the exhaust manifolds at the ports. The dead hole burns the mark off last, if at all. Some auto parts stores used to carry this stuff, back some years ago.
Noting odd about that tach issue, it just needs to be repaired. Mark pointed that out.
A quick way to figure out which hole is dead is to use a type of crayon that diesel mechs use to mark the exhaust manifolds at the ports. The dead hole burns the mark off last, if at all. Some auto parts stores used to carry this stuff, back some years ago.
Noting odd about that tach issue, it just needs to be repaired. Mark pointed that out.
#9
06-21-2016, 09:27 AM
#11
06-21-2016, 09:42 AM
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
This is the first time I've seen this thread and video ...
That's a Valve, Notice how it SOUNDS like it cleans up at higher RPM!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
That's a Valve, Notice how it SOUNDS like it cleans up at higher RPM!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Reasonable or no?
#12
06-21-2016, 10:09 AM
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Yup, It could be a stuck lifter holding the valve open.
The VERY VERY first thing to do is have him do a compression check ... BEFORE tearing anything apart.
This is not only to prove it does have a leaky valve but to pin point exactly what cylinder.
If he doesn't have the tools, tell him to buy them, a cheap Diesel compression set can be had for less than $100, an adapter will likely need to be made from an old Glow Plug though!
The longer you run it, the more the damage could be!
i.e. If it is just a stuck lifter holding the valve open, keep running it and it will burn the valve ... Just like an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
The VERY VERY first thing to do is have him do a compression check ... BEFORE tearing anything apart.
This is not only to prove it does have a leaky valve but to pin point exactly what cylinder.
If he doesn't have the tools, tell him to buy them, a cheap Diesel compression set can be had for less than $100, an adapter will likely need to be made from an old Glow Plug though!
The longer you run it, the more the damage could be!
i.e. If it is just a stuck lifter holding the valve open, keep running it and it will burn the valve ... Just like an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#13
06-21-2016, 10:31 AM
Join Date: Mar 2009
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BTW, You need to get that Tach fixed ... That E4OD will not work correctly without a Tach signal.
It's likely dead due to cracked wire on the Tach sensor, they typically crack allowing moister into the sensor.
The Tach sensor is located on the IP housing.
They are like $100 bux, so head to a junk yard looking for one that does not have cracked wires where they go into the sensor ... Odds are it'll work just fine! They don't typically fail except by moister getting in through cracked wires.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
It's likely dead due to cracked wire on the Tach sensor, they typically crack allowing moister into the sensor.
The Tach sensor is located on the IP housing.
They are like $100 bux, so head to a junk yard looking for one that does not have cracked wires where they go into the sensor ... Odds are it'll work just fine! They don't typically fail except by moister getting in through cracked wires.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#14
06-21-2016, 10:44 AM
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
BTW, You need to get that Tach fixed ... That E4OD will not work correctly without a Tach signal.
It's likely dead do to cracked wire on the Tach sensor, they typically crack allowing moister into the sensor.
The Tach sensor is located on the IP housing.
They are like $100 bux, so head to a junk yard looking for one that does not have cracked wires where they go into the sensor ... Odds are it'll work just fine! They don't typically fail except by moister getting in through cracked wires.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
It's likely dead do to cracked wire on the Tach sensor, they typically crack allowing moister into the sensor.
The Tach sensor is located on the IP housing.
They are like $100 bux, so head to a junk yard looking for one that does not have cracked wires where they go into the sensor ... Odds are it'll work just fine! They don't typically fail except by moister getting in through cracked wires.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~