I've broken the rear case on my transmission, and the plan is to have it welded (unless someone can recommend something better). Links to pictures are below. The transmission is off a 92 f250 diesel, and is a zf-s5-42 4x4. The guy doing the welding would like to have the rear case removed for ease of access, and he's also concerned about burning up the rear oil seal.

So I have a few questions, because I'm new to this. Also, here's a link to the factory manual regarding the transmission assembly/disassembly.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByG...ew?usp=sharing

1st, I plan to place the bell housing on the floor and remove the rear case instead of the way described in the manual (taking the front case off to expose the gearing). If I do this, should I still remove the detent springs from the front case, or am I fine leaving them in place since I'm not removing the gears from the front case?

2nd, I obviously need to remove the rear seal once I have the rear case off, but is there anything else that might get fried if not removed? For example, the bearing races or the shift rail bearing?

Thanks for the help in advance, and please mention anything I might be overlooking.

Doug

 

I'll just post what I'm doing as I go.

You can't just take off the rear case, because the shift interlock is bolted to the rear case from the inside. My new plan is to remove the detent springs, remove reverse idler gear retaining screw, remove the interlock plate, then remove the front case.

I'll try to skip the step where the gears are strapped together and removed entirely. To do this, I'll remove the capscrews holding the shift rails to the rear case, as well as the reverse idler gear. Then I'll put the front case back on, flip the transmission to sit on the bell housing, then pull the rear case off.

 

I think I'd throw in the towel on that trans.

 

Agreed. You can get it welded but no guarantee on it lasting let alone 100% alignment for the t-case.

 

True for both. But, replacing it from the local junkyard will cost over $1k, and having it welded costs $120. It's a risk I'm willing to take. Also, a bent drive line was the reason it broke. With that fixed, I don't see it breaking again. We'll see about the alignment. I'm concerned about it, mainly because of possible warping from welding it. I'll bolt the t-case to it and see how it feels before I install it. I figure it will be pretty obvious at that point whether or not it will work out. It'll either bind, or it won't.

I bought this truck for less than $2k, and only use it as a wood truck on rural roads. Avoiding big $ for repairs on it is critical, or I might as well heat my house with gas in the winter.

 

By the way, I pulled the case pretty easy. I also pulled the seal and shift rail bearing so they won't get fried. It's at the shop this week. I'll post back with how it goes.

 

Waaaaaaaaay back in the early '70's I snapped part off a C6 where it mated to the 428, one of the ears for a bolt. I wasn't as severe as this but was of concern anyway..........

It was welded back in place and until the Shelby GT500 was sold everything was okay.

Like your deal Doug it was considerably cheaper and worth the slight gamble. If you're willing to try it and don't mind it not working it can't hurt anything to try.

I do have to say that's one ugly break though.

 

My case looked just like yours. I bought a new case for $250

 

I looked all over locally, and i couldnt find one. I also tried Transtar, but they couldnt help either. I didnt look too hard online though. I wasnt really too hot on the idea of a new case anyway, because id have to potentially re shim the bearings. I just went the farm fix route for an old beat up farm truck. Hopefully it doesnt bite me.

Shop is busy and hasnt gotten to my case yet, by the way.

 

What are they gong to charge you? Hopefully everything will line up properly.

 

I was quoted $120.

 

I got this welded a couple months ago and put it back together. I'll never use this welding shop again, because they did a half *** job. It's been holding together though, and I haven't been taking it easy on it. I've hauled at least ten cords of wood without an issue.