No power at working temperature
#17
I ran a air test through the ICP and it doesn't seem like there is a large amount of air. The Edge was saying about 130* F. I put air to it and there is some air movement, but not a hissing noise. From the information I've found there is always some air that will make its way through on the HPOP. Kept air on for about five minutes and once the oil was blown out it never changed past the slight air noise.
#19
Depending on the type of stand pipe you have it may take quite a bit to clear
the oil from the passenger side to the driver side.
Here is the orifice that is in the top on the newer stand pipes.
It's setup so that it will allow oil to flow at full rate to the injectors and
restrict reverse flow from the rails. So it can take a bit to push all the oil out if
the leak is on the far end away from the ICP port. One way to blow the oil out
is not energize the IPR and just let it blow for a short while and let the oil vent
into the crankcase from the IPR pressure bleed port.
Once my week settles down if you want we can meet up and have a look
at the fuel pressure and run the diag with IDS (Way better that AE)
Also I have a lot of the oddball tools that are used for the 6.0L. One that
most don't have are the oil rail port block-off tools.
If you want to do that PM me and we can set things up.
EDIT : I with Benny because I am not thrilled with the FICM voltages.
But deal with the HPOP first.
Sean <BR>
6.0L Tech Folder
the oil from the passenger side to the driver side.
Here is the orifice that is in the top on the newer stand pipes.
It's setup so that it will allow oil to flow at full rate to the injectors and
restrict reverse flow from the rails. So it can take a bit to push all the oil out if
the leak is on the far end away from the ICP port. One way to blow the oil out
is not energize the IPR and just let it blow for a short while and let the oil vent
into the crankcase from the IPR pressure bleed port.
Once my week settles down if you want we can meet up and have a look
at the fuel pressure and run the diag with IDS (Way better that AE)
Also I have a lot of the oddball tools that are used for the 6.0L. One that
most don't have are the oil rail port block-off tools.
If you want to do that PM me and we can set things up.
EDIT : I with Benny because I am not thrilled with the FICM voltages.
But deal with the HPOP first.
Sean <BR>
6.0L Tech Folder
#20
****, it's a newer FICM. I want to say the paperwork was within a year of me buying it so that would make it 3 years old. The HPOP is a newer unit also because I remember researching it when I saw it said DieselSite on it when I opened it up last time. I'm thinking I should have bought the larger alternator a few months back when I was thinking about it. I'm going on call this week so it's going to have to sit for a while until I'm back on a regular work schedule. On call 24/7 for the next week, it sucks.
#23
Sean, is it possible he is hearing his injectors starting to empty out?
Flashback to last fall when we chatted, this was my problem that in fact was not a problem, you alluded to this as normal in some cases...........where the air will eventually displace all the oil in the top of a few of the injectors depending on how they are sitting at the time of shut down.
I would be keeping a close eye on that FICM only topping out at 47 and flirting below that.
Flashback to last fall when we chatted, this was my problem that in fact was not a problem, you alluded to this as normal in some cases...........where the air will eventually displace all the oil in the top of a few of the injectors depending on how they are sitting at the time of shut down.
I would be keeping a close eye on that FICM only topping out at 47 and flirting below that.
#24
#26
Thanks for checking with me. No luck as of yet, I haven't really had a whole lot of time to mess with it since I was on call for an entire week and then we had family in town, three kids birthday parties, more family, my daughter's doctor and therapy appointments, and then Independence Day. OOOOOhhhhh, and I royally messed up when I was taking the HPOP cover off, kind of set me back a bit. I have these sweet little racheting box wrenches and mistakenly used one on the front bolt on the passanger side of the HPOP cover. Problem is that you reverse the movement by flipping the wrench over, so when I backed the bolt out and realized the wrench would not allow the bolt to back out enough I had no way of threading the bolt back in to take the wrench off. It was an exercise in brain power, that's for sure.
#27
Has anyone ever had an STC fitting that leaked without catastrophic failure? I'm going to replace it regardless, but I'm wondering if I should be looking for something else while I have it open or do I reassemble and test? This does not appear to be the STC fitting that I am seeing that is prone to failure. I have a 2004 motor, but the HPOP cover is the solid one piece style that holds the IPR in it. Does that make sense?
#29
I have not read about anyone finding a reliable bench test for the round pump.
It shue would save a lot of people a lot of money. I guess it you had some way
to mount a high pressure gauge to the pump while the cover is off you could
crank it with the engine and see how well it builds pressure. You would want the
gauge to be the only thing on the outlet so that you could eliminate the rest of the
HPOP.
Sean <BR>
6.0L Tech Folder
It shue would save a lot of people a lot of money. I guess it you had some way
to mount a high pressure gauge to the pump while the cover is off you could
crank it with the engine and see how well it builds pressure. You would want the
gauge to be the only thing on the outlet so that you could eliminate the rest of the
HPOP.
Sean <BR>
6.0L Tech Folder
#30
That flat cover says you don't have an STC fitting. May have wavy rails? If you do, then you have dummy plugs and stand pipe. You've got the cover off, may as well take the vavale covers off as well and do dummies, the pipe and maybe reseal injectors..... I just did mine, under $200 for everything.