So I called some junk yards today. And no body has one they said they could get one shipped to them for around $600. I think that's a lot for an old truck motor. Hell I could just buy a whole truck for that. and rip out the engine and probably recoupe most of my money back selling parts off of it. and scrapping the rest whitch I'm condensering at this point.

 

That's where my current 351 came from. Rusty old plow truck. Kept engine, trans, transfer case, and noticed the rear fuel pump was a 6 month old motorcraft, so grabbed that too. Scrapped the rest for the cost of the truck. Granted, that was a hell of a deal, but keep your eyes peeled.

 

what do you guy think about this kit. I know its and ebay kit but im not looking for crazy hp. it sounds like it be an ok kit for what i want to do.

Ford 351W 408 Budget Stroker Kit Crank Rods Pistons Rings Bearings | eBay

 

The only thing in that kit that might be any different from another kit is the crank. It honestly might not be any different than some other kit....never know who manufactures what these days. Hellofa value, forged pistons. For low rpm truck engine I'm sure it's fine, and the seller has all positive feedback. Wouldn't hurt to get it balanced.

 

That is a nice kit that should be more than adequate for your needs. But be aware that forged pistons do need a little special treatment, they expand more than cast or hyper pistons so giving the engine sufficient warmup time before WOT and heavy loads is more important. Also note that because of this increased expansion they are typically fit looser than other pistons and that can lead to a little piston slap noise at cold start.. not always but sometimes.

 

So I take it with the aluminium pistions it will need more attention to detail when installing the rings because I'm going to have account for the exspantion of the pistons correct

 

Installation is no different between forged and cast.

 

So i think I found me a junk yard near me with an engine a guy at work told me about them. so I went down there today and they said they are pretty sure they have one from a 89 out in the yard. but they asked if it does not have a 351 if a 351 from a 95 would work. they have one up front and knows it has a 351 in it for sure. So what would I have to change on a 95 engine to make it work. Since its a maf truck.

 

Flywheel and a SD 5.8 computer. Use all the wiring from your truck and may have to get a 89 distributor and swap the drive gears

 

Im looking at these heads what do you guys think according to the stroker kit description my compretion with these heads should be about 10.6:1

Ford 289 302 351W 408 427 5 0 Mustang Aluminum Heads GT40 EFI Carburetor | eBay

 

Those are the exact heads I suggested earlier in the thread, they're good heads for the money and should be great for a truck application.

10.6:1 is perfect, not pushing the limits with aluminum head but high enough to make the most difference (max effort would only yield ~10 more hp anyway). Your part throttle pedal will be amazing, torque will be off the chart, 93 will be required (I know you said you're ok with that, just being clear)

That's going to be one hellofa runner with that combo, prepare yourself for big smiles and bald tires.

 

So I've been doing some surching on other 408s people have built. and it looks like I'm going to probably hit way past my goal. not a bad thing but then the transmission and rear end start comeing in to the picture of needing upgraded. how much will the stock rear and transmission handel I know they probably will be fine. as long as I don't lanch it for a while but they will probably brake Eventually.

 

M5OD, not sure but I've seen a few 8.8s hold up to serious abuse. A bone stocker in a lifted 89 with 38s getting clutch dumped at 4500 in low range, albeit it was behind a 300. But, that's still a hefty shock load to absorb. And an 8.8 with a spool in a 85gt on 30" drag radials coming off the T-brake at 4000 behind a (I was sitting shotgun in the car watching the data logger), 1016RWHP turbo 504 BBF. And it would go mid 8s. So as long as you don't try doing massive burnouts I'll bet you will be OK for awhile. Oh and get some sort of traction aid. Axle hop kills parts faster than HP.

 

You're going to demolish your power goal. I'd expect 350whp easy even from factory 460 speed density with that compression and displacement, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was more on the dyno.

M5od unfortunately won't live long under that power level. I say unfortunately because it's a great transmission for ripping around; the gear ratios are almost just right. Zf5 is cheapest option for strength and reliability, but it sucks with its 3 acceleration gears vs the m 5 ' s 4 usable gears.

4x4 t56 would be best for your build but it's way pricey.

An upgraded 8.8 should live plenty long, even factory should be good as long as the miles haven't made it sloppy. Some 1350 u joints would be a solid upgrade as well.

 

If you are fast with the 1-2 shift, a close ratio zf isn't too far off of a M5od. And 2-5 is so close that there isn't enough difference to even notice.