RE SEALING DRIP EDGE TIPS
#4
#5
I'm with Vettex2 on the 3M stuff----its pretty much the benchmark for materials like flexible seam sealer, the major USA manufacturers use it during new vehicle construction.
I'm a bit torn whether to rip all the existing out first---small cracks in the top surface (just under the paint) don't necessarily mean that upper seam is now or will leak anytime soon.
Personally I'd mask off the areas on either side of the exiting sealant but maybe 1/8" wider than what's already there, apply and smooth into place a new top coating of the 3M product. Naturally you'd clean and degrease the roof and drip rails with a good preparation solvent.
The reason for this is the factory applied material tends to adhere VERY well, removing and replacing it not always the most successful for the longer term. Plus the "top coating" method is a lot less work but just as effective.
HTH
I'm a bit torn whether to rip all the existing out first---small cracks in the top surface (just under the paint) don't necessarily mean that upper seam is now or will leak anytime soon.
Personally I'd mask off the areas on either side of the exiting sealant but maybe 1/8" wider than what's already there, apply and smooth into place a new top coating of the 3M product. Naturally you'd clean and degrease the roof and drip rails with a good preparation solvent.
The reason for this is the factory applied material tends to adhere VERY well, removing and replacing it not always the most successful for the longer term. Plus the "top coating" method is a lot less work but just as effective.
HTH
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