This may be helpful to people who would like to lift their Navi. I got a set of shocks ( non- air ) from Air Bag It for $500.00. They come with 3" lift on the front and 2" lift on the rear. It was pretty easy conversion. Took about 4 hours wit air tools. Depending on what you want to do, you can run 37" tires. I put 30" rims on mine with 255/30/30 tires. NO RUBBING!!!!!!

 

Not a fan, but that's just my taste. I'm sure this will be helpful for someone with tastes similar to yours. The giant tire / rim combo really accentuates how the rear axle isn't centered in the wheel arch.
What else do you have painted under there?

 

Yea I know. But I've seen a couple of threads where people wanted to Lift and put bigger tires on. Just repainted the factory stuff. Silver and black. You wouldn't happen to know how to turn off the SUSPENSION SWITH OFF warning would you? Is there a fuse or something.

 

I have asked before but, why are the rear wheels not in the center of the wheel well?

 

Because as you lift the vehicle the rear control arms pivot down and pull the axle forward. You need longer custom length control arms if you want the tires to remain centered.

 

Ditto...around here they'd probably shoot at it thinking aliens have landed.

 

Not my cup of tea either, but what really bothers me is how easy those wheels can break with such a low profile tire. I don't really dislike the look (don't like it either, indifferent I guess). It just seems unsafe to me what can happen when a rim breaks at highway speed.

 

Never had a rim break or crack. Been doing custom rims for 30 years. The tire is what you have to worry about....potholes, curbs, manhole covers, etc.

 

I went with a buddy last year to pick up a set of rims and tires off of a late model Mustang, they weren't stock rims but some aftermarket 20" or 22" with low profile tires. (my buddy was just looking for some rims and tires to roll his project around). One of them was severly broken on the inboard side bead area. With them being so wide and having all the offset to one side it is a risk I would rather not take myself, but to each their own, if you like them more power to you.

 

You can crack or break any wheel if you hit it hard enough! A lot of people think they can just buy a set of used rims off of ebay or craiglist and slap them on the car because the lug pattern fits. I run a rim shop. You need the correct offset and the right size tire for the rim. You use the correct set-up you will not have any problems. Most people that come in our shop with broken or bent wheels were drinking or high and hit a curb. And want to blame us for defective rims. ALL BULL ****!!!!!!!

 

Of course you can crack or break any wheel, but more sidewall equals more cushion. (I think of leather vintage football helmets compared to modern football helmets) I accidentally hit a curb in the dark a few years ago with my Ford Focus while turning into a side street. I wasn't doing more than 10 MPH, the rim did bend a little on the inner bead area of the rim (195/60-15" tires), I can't say that a lower profile tire would have broke the rim nor can I say a higher profile would have prevented the bend. One would have to try the higher/lower versions to get accurate results. The wheels my buddy has may be some foreign made junk but seeing the way it is broken and having a vague recollection the seller had of how it happened makes me not want to take the chance.

 

lmas! You sure you weren't going 100 instead of 10???????

 

Sorry, I should have specified, this wasn't my rim I bent. The rim pictured is one of the ones my buddy bought that I originally referred to. I was with my buddy when he bought this, the seller said he hit a rock or something like that to break the rim pictured.

 

So this is essentially converting the air ride suspension over to a static suspension. The air compressors will continue to run unless you wire in the correct resistors to trick the air suspension into thinking the bags are at a specific PSI and ride height... otherwise expect your compressor to run non stop and have service suspension system warning lights. It looks like the suspension is completely maxed out with whatever kit you went with, just by looking at the rear rims they are off center and almost look like they will rub the inner wheel well. I would look at extended rear control arms and various other components, front/rear sway bar link extensions, probably lowering the transfer case because of the angle it's at now. Is this a daily driver or a show truck? I'm worried those brakes won't be able to handle the added weight of those rims and burn up at an accelerated rate unless you upgrade those as well.

 

royeco, I have a question for you. Does that Navigator ride rough? I just put some bigger wheels on mine and now it rides rough as hell. The tires and rims I took off were Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 265/70-R17 with a load range of E13 (2535 LBs @ 44 PSI), The ones I put on are Goodyear Wrangler AT/S LT275/65-R20 Load rang E (3750 LBs @ 80 PSI). I am in no way near the weight rating of the tires with my vehicle so at first I figured I'd try running them @ 70 PSI before I even test drove it. After a short ride it felt like I was riding on solid steel wheels as I could feel every little pebble in the road. I then lowered the air pressure to 60 PSI in each wheel. Now I guess I will have to do the math to get the lowest pressure I can for my load.
I like the look better than the stock wheels, but I'm not sure if I can put up with the ride. And yes, these were some wheels off of Craigslist, but they came off of a Supercrew F-150 so my application is similar. I couldn't beat the price, $225 for all four and 22 bucks for some new lug nuts. Attached is a pic of the bigger wheels.