Escape & Escape Hybrid Ford Escape, Ford Escape Hybrid, Mercury Mariner, Mazda Tribute

2003 exhaust questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-08-2016, 08:47 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2003 exhaust questions

Hi all, I have inherited an 03 Escape with exhaust issues. To make a long story short. My brother-in-law gave me his Escape when it was losing power and the diagnosis was the cats were plugged with a $3,000 estimate. Rather than junk it, I took it. Interestingly, there are no codes showing.
I've got the exhaust completely off and found some things I don't understand. After disconnecting the pipe that goes from the rear manifold back into the intake, I found two small "pipes" coming off the pipe that went nowhere. They look like they would connect to rubber hoses of some type, but I can see nothing that would connect to them.
I hope I'm describing this situation correctly, but if anyone knows where these things are supposed to lead, I'd appreciate the help.
 
  #2  
Old 06-09-2016, 12:43 AM
Torky2's Avatar
Torky2
Torky2 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by beaverplt
......... After disconnecting the pipe that goes from the rear manifold back into the intake, I found two small "pipes" coming off the pipe that went nowhere. They look like they would connect to rubber hoses of some type, but I can see nothing that would connect to them......
It sounds like you are describing the flow path from exhaust through the EGR Valve to the intake manifold. That path has an orifice in the tube, and two pressure tapoffs, one before, and one after, the tube's internal orifice. Special heat-resistant hoses go from those taps to the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback Element). It is a semiconductor device that, via measuring the difference in pressure between the two taps, predicts the actual flow rate of exhaust through the EGR Valve.

You can look up the vehicle on Rockauto, and under "Emissions", find the DPFE, and see the pic. Then you know what to look for. If the cats were plugged, the hoses could have blown of with the excessive backpressure, and that DPFE, if it's still on it, may be shot.
 
  #3  
Old 06-09-2016, 07:08 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I believe you are right on with your description of what could have happened. I found what is left of the DPFE sensor melted to the covering on the flow pipe. I could not find the hoses that would connect the sensor to the tap offs. Looking at this and the condition of the exhaust in general, I'm still amazed there were no codes showing. Something is goofy there, but I'll tackle that after I get the new exhaust, etc on.
 
  #4  
Old 06-10-2016, 10:18 AM
tomw's Avatar
tomw
tomw is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,852
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Maybe the bulb has burned out from being on so long.... ha!

If you are not in CA, you can get aftermarket exhaust manifolds with built-in catalytic converters for about half the cost of OEM. CA will not approve unless they have done their own testing, apparently.
The DPFE is not expensive, the hoses are not either, it's just a pile of rust flakes into the eyeballs getting the nuts loose from the studs holding the manifolds in place. If you don't live in a 'salty' state, you will have better luck removing without breaking the manifold studs.
tom
 
  #5  
Old 06-10-2016, 05:47 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tomw
Maybe the bulb has burned out from being on so long.... ha!

If you are not in CA, you can get aftermarket exhaust manifolds with built-in catalytic converters for about half the cost of OEM. CA will not approve unless they have done their own testing, apparently.
The DPFE is not expensive, the hoses are not either, it's just a pile of rust flakes into the eyeballs getting the nuts loose from the studs holding the manifolds in place. If you don't live in a 'salty' state, you will have better luck removing without breaking the manifold studs.
tom
I know you were joking about the bulb, but it would not surprise me. My brother in law is not the most responsible human when it comes to taking care of stuff.
I live in SE Wisconsin. We have emissions testing, but not as bad as CA. I've got the manifolds off with not a lot of difficulty. I just soaked all the nuts with PB blaster and left them overnight. Another soaking a half hour before removal seemed to do the trick. I broke one. I can handle that.

I found some good prices at RockAuto, Amazon and Ebay for replacement cats. I'm planning on replacing the rest of the exhaust also, so I need to shop around a bit. The thing that surprised me was AutoZone's pricing. Way high compared to everybody else.
 
  #6  
Old 06-11-2016, 08:18 AM
tomw's Avatar
tomw
tomw is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,852
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
If there was any question about the condition of the COPs and spark plugs, I would replace them before firing it up after replacing the cats. If the COP fails, the cats will melt relatively quickly it seems in this particular model.
I read somewhere that Advance or AutoZone had a COP set of 6 that was a reasonable cost and supposedly decent quality. I speak from ignorance, so if it is untrue, eh, well...
tom

added: If you check each of the spark plugs, consider that if there is oil in the plug 'well', then you will have misfire occur, leading to cooked cats. There are O-ring type seals for each plug well that are supposed to keep oil from seeping in and ruining the 'boot'. A ruined boot(they cannot successfully be cleaned) will allow the spark to jump the the head vs going across the electrodes. Misfire will then occur, and possible cat destruction. Check the plugs & boots for oil contamination is the summary.
tom
 

Last edited by tomw; 06-11-2016 at 08:21 AM. Reason: add
  #7  
Old 06-12-2016, 09:40 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You are correct on the pricing on a COP set. It's under $25 for a set. Well worth it considering how much I'm already spending on the exhaust system.
 
  #8  
Old 06-14-2016, 11:36 AM
got2bjoester's Avatar
got2bjoester
got2bjoester is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 516
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
COP and plug replacement is a good insurance purchase against re-doing the exhaust.
 
  #9  
Old 06-14-2016, 09:45 PM
scott91370's Avatar
scott91370
scott91370 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burleson, Tx
Posts: 1,796
Received 94 Likes on 76 Posts
It is Auto Zone that has the set of 6 for about $230.
 
  #10  
Old 07-24-2016, 03:19 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I did something stupid. When I took the old exhaust off, I did not mark which of the upstream O2 sensors went where. Now in the front, I've got a sensor with a blue wire covering and one with a green wire covering. I don't remember which is front and which is rear. Can anyone help?
I'm assuming these two are the upstream sensors.
 
  #11  
Old 07-25-2016, 08:43 AM
tomw's Avatar
tomw
tomw is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,852
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
From what I have read, the O2 sensors are all the same. The difference being in the length of the wires. For my 2 cents, I'd want the 'best' sensors upstream of the converters. Sensors that 'flip' quickly will report well, and those that are 'coated' with deposits will flip slower, and have a bit less mpg, I think, as they give the computer quicker response to changes in O2 level in the stream. Downstream just checks that the converter is working.
tom
 
  #12  
Old 07-30-2016, 12:03 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question for those who know. Im going to replace the COP's. I see a "Coil-on-Plug boot & Spring kit" that seems to be just a boot and spring.



I also see "Ignition coils" that look like an individual coil has been added to the boot.

which one do I want to get?


For the O2 sensors, I bought Bosch sensors. I bought the exact fit ones instead of the universal fit. That's why I was angry with myself. I did figure it out and have them installed correctly. (Note to self; WRITE IT DOWN AS YOU TAKE IT APART *******)
 
  #13  
Old 07-30-2016, 02:38 PM
scott91370's Avatar
scott91370
scott91370 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burleson, Tx
Posts: 1,796
Received 94 Likes on 76 Posts
If you want brand new/maximum electricity to be delivered to each plug you want the ignition coil. If the rubber and/or spring attached to your existing coil(s) is damaged you want the boot/spring kit.
If you're getting all new coils I posted up earlier that AutoZone sells a set of 6 for about $230 with lifetime warranty. It's a pretty good price since they are about $65 each. Also, you can buy online if you have the time to wait and get a discount plus gift card.
 
  #14  
Old 07-30-2016, 04:33 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Interesting that AZ is at $230 and Amazon has a set of 6 Motorcraft Plugs and 6 ADP ignition coils for $84 with shipping. They appear to be the same thing.

 
  #15  
Old 08-23-2016, 06:37 PM
beaverplt's Avatar
beaverplt
beaverplt is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi again, if you have read this thread, you may remember that the DFPE sensor was melted and the two tubes from the exhaust manifold were gone, I've got the new sensor and tubes attached to the new manifold, but am having a hard time finding where the sensor mounts. I don't see any mounting screws or bolts that are missing or with any broken plastic hanging on them. I'd hate to just leave this sensor hanging loose. Any help is appreciated.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Soarer
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
04-24-2014 10:49 AM
myerss
Modular V10 (6.8l)
8
12-24-2012 09:44 PM
jerryga
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
01-06-2009 09:53 PM
allford86
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
11-15-2004 08:54 PM
Paarrothead
Computer Chips & Tuners
3
05-09-2002 11:50 PM



Quick Reply: 2003 exhaust questions



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:04 PM.