2003 exhaust questions
#1
2003 exhaust questions
Hi all, I have inherited an 03 Escape with exhaust issues. To make a long story short. My brother-in-law gave me his Escape when it was losing power and the diagnosis was the cats were plugged with a $3,000 estimate. Rather than junk it, I took it. Interestingly, there are no codes showing.
I've got the exhaust completely off and found some things I don't understand. After disconnecting the pipe that goes from the rear manifold back into the intake, I found two small "pipes" coming off the pipe that went nowhere. They look like they would connect to rubber hoses of some type, but I can see nothing that would connect to them.
I hope I'm describing this situation correctly, but if anyone knows where these things are supposed to lead, I'd appreciate the help.
I've got the exhaust completely off and found some things I don't understand. After disconnecting the pipe that goes from the rear manifold back into the intake, I found two small "pipes" coming off the pipe that went nowhere. They look like they would connect to rubber hoses of some type, but I can see nothing that would connect to them.
I hope I'm describing this situation correctly, but if anyone knows where these things are supposed to lead, I'd appreciate the help.
#2
......... After disconnecting the pipe that goes from the rear manifold back into the intake, I found two small "pipes" coming off the pipe that went nowhere. They look like they would connect to rubber hoses of some type, but I can see nothing that would connect to them......
You can look up the vehicle on Rockauto, and under "Emissions", find the DPFE, and see the pic. Then you know what to look for. If the cats were plugged, the hoses could have blown of with the excessive backpressure, and that DPFE, if it's still on it, may be shot.
#3
I believe you are right on with your description of what could have happened. I found what is left of the DPFE sensor melted to the covering on the flow pipe. I could not find the hoses that would connect the sensor to the tap offs. Looking at this and the condition of the exhaust in general, I'm still amazed there were no codes showing. Something is goofy there, but I'll tackle that after I get the new exhaust, etc on.
#4
Maybe the bulb has burned out from being on so long.... ha!
If you are not in CA, you can get aftermarket exhaust manifolds with built-in catalytic converters for about half the cost of OEM. CA will not approve unless they have done their own testing, apparently.
The DPFE is not expensive, the hoses are not either, it's just a pile of rust flakes into the eyeballs getting the nuts loose from the studs holding the manifolds in place. If you don't live in a 'salty' state, you will have better luck removing without breaking the manifold studs.
tom
If you are not in CA, you can get aftermarket exhaust manifolds with built-in catalytic converters for about half the cost of OEM. CA will not approve unless they have done their own testing, apparently.
The DPFE is not expensive, the hoses are not either, it's just a pile of rust flakes into the eyeballs getting the nuts loose from the studs holding the manifolds in place. If you don't live in a 'salty' state, you will have better luck removing without breaking the manifold studs.
tom
#5
Maybe the bulb has burned out from being on so long.... ha!
If you are not in CA, you can get aftermarket exhaust manifolds with built-in catalytic converters for about half the cost of OEM. CA will not approve unless they have done their own testing, apparently.
The DPFE is not expensive, the hoses are not either, it's just a pile of rust flakes into the eyeballs getting the nuts loose from the studs holding the manifolds in place. If you don't live in a 'salty' state, you will have better luck removing without breaking the manifold studs.
tom
If you are not in CA, you can get aftermarket exhaust manifolds with built-in catalytic converters for about half the cost of OEM. CA will not approve unless they have done their own testing, apparently.
The DPFE is not expensive, the hoses are not either, it's just a pile of rust flakes into the eyeballs getting the nuts loose from the studs holding the manifolds in place. If you don't live in a 'salty' state, you will have better luck removing without breaking the manifold studs.
tom
I live in SE Wisconsin. We have emissions testing, but not as bad as CA. I've got the manifolds off with not a lot of difficulty. I just soaked all the nuts with PB blaster and left them overnight. Another soaking a half hour before removal seemed to do the trick. I broke one. I can handle that.
I found some good prices at RockAuto, Amazon and Ebay for replacement cats. I'm planning on replacing the rest of the exhaust also, so I need to shop around a bit. The thing that surprised me was AutoZone's pricing. Way high compared to everybody else.
#6
If there was any question about the condition of the COPs and spark plugs, I would replace them before firing it up after replacing the cats. If the COP fails, the cats will melt relatively quickly it seems in this particular model.
I read somewhere that Advance or AutoZone had a COP set of 6 that was a reasonable cost and supposedly decent quality. I speak from ignorance, so if it is untrue, eh, well...
tom
added: If you check each of the spark plugs, consider that if there is oil in the plug 'well', then you will have misfire occur, leading to cooked cats. There are O-ring type seals for each plug well that are supposed to keep oil from seeping in and ruining the 'boot'. A ruined boot(they cannot successfully be cleaned) will allow the spark to jump the the head vs going across the electrodes. Misfire will then occur, and possible cat destruction. Check the plugs & boots for oil contamination is the summary.
tom
I read somewhere that Advance or AutoZone had a COP set of 6 that was a reasonable cost and supposedly decent quality. I speak from ignorance, so if it is untrue, eh, well...
tom
added: If you check each of the spark plugs, consider that if there is oil in the plug 'well', then you will have misfire occur, leading to cooked cats. There are O-ring type seals for each plug well that are supposed to keep oil from seeping in and ruining the 'boot'. A ruined boot(they cannot successfully be cleaned) will allow the spark to jump the the head vs going across the electrodes. Misfire will then occur, and possible cat destruction. Check the plugs & boots for oil contamination is the summary.
tom
Last edited by tomw; 06-11-2016 at 08:21 AM. Reason: add
#7
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#10
I did something stupid. When I took the old exhaust off, I did not mark which of the upstream O2 sensors went where. Now in the front, I've got a sensor with a blue wire covering and one with a green wire covering. I don't remember which is front and which is rear. Can anyone help?
I'm assuming these two are the upstream sensors.
I'm assuming these two are the upstream sensors.
#11
From what I have read, the O2 sensors are all the same. The difference being in the length of the wires. For my 2 cents, I'd want the 'best' sensors upstream of the converters. Sensors that 'flip' quickly will report well, and those that are 'coated' with deposits will flip slower, and have a bit less mpg, I think, as they give the computer quicker response to changes in O2 level in the stream. Downstream just checks that the converter is working.
tom
tom
#12
Question for those who know. Im going to replace the COP's. I see a "Coil-on-Plug boot & Spring kit" that seems to be just a boot and spring.
I also see "Ignition coils" that look like an individual coil has been added to the boot.
which one do I want to get?
For the O2 sensors, I bought Bosch sensors. I bought the exact fit ones instead of the universal fit. That's why I was angry with myself. I did figure it out and have them installed correctly. (Note to self; WRITE IT DOWN AS YOU TAKE IT APART *******)
I also see "Ignition coils" that look like an individual coil has been added to the boot.
which one do I want to get?
For the O2 sensors, I bought Bosch sensors. I bought the exact fit ones instead of the universal fit. That's why I was angry with myself. I did figure it out and have them installed correctly. (Note to self; WRITE IT DOWN AS YOU TAKE IT APART *******)
#13
If you want brand new/maximum electricity to be delivered to each plug you want the ignition coil. If the rubber and/or spring attached to your existing coil(s) is damaged you want the boot/spring kit.
If you're getting all new coils I posted up earlier that AutoZone sells a set of 6 for about $230 with lifetime warranty. It's a pretty good price since they are about $65 each. Also, you can buy online if you have the time to wait and get a discount plus gift card.
If you're getting all new coils I posted up earlier that AutoZone sells a set of 6 for about $230 with lifetime warranty. It's a pretty good price since they are about $65 each. Also, you can buy online if you have the time to wait and get a discount plus gift card.
#15
Hi again, if you have read this thread, you may remember that the DFPE sensor was melted and the two tubes from the exhaust manifold were gone, I've got the new sensor and tubes attached to the new manifold, but am having a hard time finding where the sensor mounts. I don't see any mounting screws or bolts that are missing or with any broken plastic hanging on them. I'd hate to just leave this sensor hanging loose. Any help is appreciated.
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