The reason for changing the coil was i dropped it and it had a piece break off.
Now the reason for changing the crank & cam senors was a shot in the dark. I figured on changing them anyway over a period of time.

Ok now if im getting spark, I wondering why its not firing with the introduction of starting fluid?

I had a outboard once and the thing was getting spark with plug out, but once I put the plug back in it would not start period, but after installing a new stator it ran fine so the spark I was getting wasn't enough.

I have cleaned all the grounds I could find.

going to pull bed off Friday for better access on finding any other grounds and easier testing


Thanks

ED

 

Hold off pulling the bed, until you listen to the fuel injectors to see if they're clicking/working & hook up your fuel pressure gauge, start it & monitor fuel pressure when it stalls. Being an 05, fuel pressure needs to be 64 +/-8 psi, so post up the KOEO & KOER fuel pressure Numbers your measuring.

 

Well it's running! It was weird had one plug out to check compression which was 160 psi and decided to check spark with a new spark plug grounded it to battery and the damn thing started a stayed running I let it run for a few minutes even though the plug was out. so most definitely its a grounding problem, put plug back and started it and it ran for a good 10 minutes I did touch the gas or anything but finally it died would not restart going to address the grounds today, what do you think of this?

fuel pressure stayed at 60 psi and could barely hear injector pulse

 

OK, that's a good find & feedback.

Well you could pull & clean the battery to body & engine grounds, or try a good quality/low resistance/large wire gauge ground jumper, directly from the battery to body, then if no joy try it to the engine & see if you can narrow down which might be suspect.
Could be broken wire strands, poor contact between the wire strands & the end lug, or loose corroded, rusted ground, but the jumper, if good contact is made, could help quickly narrow down the suspects as if properly connected on both ends, would provide a good ground path.

If you know how to use your multimeter to perform under load voltage drop testing, you could narrow it down that way, as the poorest connection point with the largest voltage drop across it would be suspect. Also, if the voltage drop is large enough & the connection point is carrying enough load, you might be able to detect it by feel, it should be warm or hot, depending on how much load & voltage drop is occurring across the faulty connection.

I once had a intermittent no crank on my Renault that was finally traced to a faulty connection between the factory B+ battery cable wire strands & end lug. Renault years later had a recall on the dang cable, too late for me, but the Tech & I learned how to perform under load voltage drop testing to find the problem.
Turns out we could have found it by using a known good jumper cable & paralleling the faulty one, or could have used the touch test, as it was Hot after trying to run the starter motor.

Have you been having any other unusual operational happenings with other electrical/electronic equipment, as that could provide clues if it might be faulty body, or engine grounds.

Some trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Will do working on it in a few hours.

Thanks

 

Spent the morning changing ground ends and testing to no avail yet will continue Monday.

Question power 12v for the coil and fuel injectors come from which point in the engine fuse box?

Schematic isn't real clear

Ed

 

if i am not mistaken the computer tells the fuel injectors to fire from a signal from the camshaft sensor ( at least that way on my 3.0 ) and pretty sure the coil works kinda the same way,,,fuse box does power fuel pump threw a relay,,, Not real sure where the coil gets it power from but I would think it gets signal threw the computer somehow,,,,, maybe the crankshaft sensor sends signal to computer to fire the coil ????????????????

 

I know the computer grounds the coil/injectors when its wants them to fir but need to know where the 12v that powers comes from?

 

Input your vehicle particulars here to have a look for the 12 volt B+ feed to various engine control systems. Search Wiring Diagrams

 

Got it

Thanks

Mr Ed

 

Using your multimeter, make sure you aren't getting a under load B+ voltage drop to the fuel injectors & coil pack from a faulty/high resistance B+ 12 volt feed connection.

 

Ok have engine power/fuse box all unbolted to gain access to see wiring underneath been back probing everything so far is OK waiting till Friday to put all back together and try it also was thinking the ignition module that is on the steering column came to mind I have never checked that, you think that could cause all this?


Ed

 

Well I have tried everything still it only starts with that one plug out its making no sense at all. I'm going to add some more grounds from frame to motor/chassis etc.

Ed

 

Try adding the grounds with a good quality low resistance/large wire gauge jumper cables, as they're quicker to use to indicate which ground may be faulty, then go to that ground point & inspect it's connections & run. Just use good clean, unpainted connection points. Don't forget that the fault could be out of sight, inside/under the insulation of the wire run, or a faulty connection between its wire strands & end lug.
SO, a wire run or its connections can look ok but be faulty out of sight under the insulation.

 

Okie Dokie