5th Wheel Maintenance checklist / schedule

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Old 06-06-2016, 11:36 AM
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Post 5th Wheel Maintenance checklist / schedule

Brand new RV owner here. Want to keep it operating & looking nice.
Share your fifth wheel maintenance checklist / schedule here.
Thanks!
 
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:24 PM
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re-torque lug nuts and check air pressure before each trip.

Walk the roof 2-3 times a year checking all vents and seams.

Check tires and level of heat at each hub on fuel stops.

Wheel bearing regrease/repack depending upon the axles you have..

Always check the water level in your battery. At least monthly.
 
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:37 PM
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If you have lubeable shackle pins grease them every year. If not replace them Not expensive and easy to do.
 
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:38 PM
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Get rid of the chitty tires the mfg put on and buy GOOD tires that won't blow out.
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cyncwby
Get rid of the chitty tires the mfg put on and buy GOOD tires that won't blow out.
Never had any problems with the originals on mine. Finally changed them due to age.
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:49 PM
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All depends on what brand tires they put on your rig.....or you were just a lucky man. I've seen more 5th wheels and travel trailers on the side of the road here in So. Utah with blown tires and damaged rigs then I care to count. First thing I did was get rid of the GY Marathons and switch to Sailun S637's when we got our 5th wheel home. It's just an FYI to the OP, he's asking so that's my recommendation.
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cyncwby
All depends on what brand tires they put on your rig.....or you were just a lucky man. I've seen more 5th wheels and travel trailers on the side of the road here in So. Utah with blown tires and damaged rigs then I care to count. First thing I did was get rid of the GY Marathons and switch to Sailun S637's when we got our 5th wheel home. It's just an FYI to the OP, he's asking so that's my recommendation.
Mine weren't made in China. I had the upgrades made in Taiwan. LOL
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:09 PM
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Good man, I'm having a Corona in your honor since you're a brother Viet Nam vet. As you most likely know, the Sailun Company is also in China....but it's the best big truck tire company they have and these S637's are beasts........Dave
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
re-torque lug nuts and check air pressure before each trip.

Walk the roof 2-3 times a year checking all vents and seams.

Check tires and level of heat at each hub on fuel stops.

Wheel bearing regrease/repack depending upon the axles you have..

Always check the water level in your battery. At least monthly.
Good, keep it simple and basic. None of it has to be done all at once. Some of the stuff you read about on the Internet almost never happens in the real world and the stuff I have to fix is always the same. If you do the above and anything you find the manufacturer says to do, you will be fine.

Steve
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:44 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by senix
Check... level of heat at each hub on fuel stops.
Wheel bearing regrease/repack depending upon the axles you have..
When I got my new tires installed last week I had the mechanic squirt some grease into the hubs.
My rig has been sitting for 18 months & I noticed on this trip the brake shoes are screeching so I know it's time for new ones. I was thinking that since the drums were going to be coming off that it might be a good time to re-pack the hubs. Thoughts?
Also, how often is hub repacking supposed to be done?
Thanks.
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Loxley
When I got my new tires installed last week I had the mechanic squirt some grease into the hubs.
My rig has been sitting for 18 months & I noticed on this trip the brake shoes are screeching so I know it's time for new ones. I was thinking that since the drums were going to be coming off that it might be a good time to re-pack the hubs. Thoughts?
Also, how often is hub repacking supposed to be done?
Thanks.
If your hubs have zerks and are greasable why would you repack them?
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
If your hubs have zerks and are greasable why would you repack them?
I'm brand new to all this, so "zerk" is a new term for me. He just popped off the cap & squirted grease all around the inside.
People just keep telling me that I need to "repack" them. I guess I don't know what the difference would be, or even if there is any...
thanks.
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:10 AM
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I am sure it was not done correctly. Those that are regreasable need to be off the ground and rotate the tire while adding grease.


You are suppose to put enough in there that the old comes out around the zerk.


I would still recommend a complete cleaning and repack by someone who works on these. At that time I would also replace the inner grease seal as well.


Your RV service dept is probably best to do this.
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Loxley
I'm brand new to all this, so "zerk" is a new term for me. He just popped off the cap & squirted grease all around the inside.
People just keep telling me that I need to "repack" them. I guess I don't know what the difference would be, or even if there is any...
thanks.
If your axles are the Dexter EZ-Lube with the grease zerk behind the rubber plug. You're way better off not using it and repacking by hand.
What happens is the grease as it goes in through the spindle, it hits the end and is forced 180 degrees back through the bearings and comes out the front. The problem is the grease will actually push past the rear seal and go into your brakes. If this happens, you'll be replacing your brakes.
Here's a doc that shows the grease flow. Notice the only thing holding the grease back is the rear seal. Even if you follow their directions to the T, it still can happen.
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf

Don't ask how I know.. Let's just say I recently replaced 2 out of 4 brakes due to grease contamination.

If your brakes are disc you'll be fine. If drum, chances of pushing the grease past the seal into the drum is pretty high.
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by L3dford
If your axles are the Dexter EZ-Lube with the grease zerk behind the rubber plug. You're way better off not using it and repacking by hand.
What happens is the grease as it goes in through the spindle, it hits the end and is forced 180 degrees back through the bearings and comes out the front. The problem is the grease will actually push past the rear seal and go into your brakes. If this happens, you'll be replacing your brakes.
Here's a doc that shows the grease flow. Notice the only thing holding the grease back is the rear seal. Even if you follow their directions to the T, it still can happen.
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf

Don't ask how I know.. Let's just say I recently replaced 2 out of 4 brakes due to grease contamination.

If your brakes are disc you'll be fine. If drum, chances of pushing the grease past the seal into the drum is pretty high.
Correct, if not done properly. Turn the tire while slowly pumping the grease. Pumping fast or using an air gun will blow out the rear seal. Just like anything else there is a wrong way and a right way of doing things. I've had the EZ lubes on this trailer for nine years now with no seal problem and close to twenty years on my boat trailer before selling it.
 


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