Tried this awhile back and had to move on. Pinion seal leaks like a sieve. I do not have a lift and own an anemic non-made in USA compressor. I have been trying to loosen pinion nut. I used a pipe wrench on the flange to keep rear from spinning. Used a socket and breaker bar with a four foot pipe. Standing on pipe won't move nut. Someone loaned me a 3/4 inch drive impact gun, but, don't think I have enough air pressure. As I see it, my options are: Heat it, air chisel nut to crack it and replace (I'm not new to this.), or flatbed truck 15 miles one way to a shop and let them try. By the authorities, truck is 1952 F1 with stock rear. Any helpful comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Did you try tris? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16176293

How is the pipe wrench being held? It is probably limiting the amount of torque you can apply with the cheater. Also, are the wheels on the ground, parking brake applied? Applying shock to it is what it likely needs to break loose. If you still can't get it, drilling the nut so it can be cracked may be your best shot. Heat?

 

Drilling nut to crack it? Never thought of that. There would be a lot less chance of damage to threads than just using air chisel. Only thing that keeps me from heating it is the oil. Thanks.

 

Did not try tool in other post as pipe wrench seems to do the job.

 

I meant drilling parallel to the threads. It relieves the stresses in the nut, sometimes enough that you can get it with the wrenches.

 

Air tools work best with flow, not necessarily pressure. A 3/4" impact needs 90-120 psi but almost twice the flow of a 1/2" impact. A 1/4" air hose won't deliver the air it requires, you'll need 8 - 10 cfm at the tool inlet (3/8" hose and fittings work best.) Then there's the point that an impact works best against a solid fastener. One that's not held fast will most likely just bounce instead of breaking loose. If you haven't enjoyed success with the 4' bar what you really need is to bring on the heat or the drill.

 

I used a 3/4" breaker bar along with a 2 foot cheater pipe to get the torque needed to break that puppy when I rebuilt my 9" rear end. Just a note, if your not familiar with pinion preloading, I would suggest you ask about it b4 just tightening down the pinion nut after replacing the seal. If you have done this B4 disregard this last part. (I needed help with mine) Good luck getting that nut free.

 

I have not done the pinion nut on a f1, but the nut on the Dana 80 on my Dodge Diesel took a six foot bar on a 3/4 breaker bar and a big pipe wrench on the yoke wedged against the frame. The thing is to set the preload you are going to have to generate some decent torque putting the new nut back on. The only reason I could make the long pipe work was I have a hoist to work under. You don't have that advantage so it will be hard to make a long pipe work. I suggest you look into renting a torque multiplier. Get one rated at 1200#. That should make short work of it.




Best of Luck,
B

 

I agree with B . . . you need a bigger bar.