Hey all,

I've got a 2003 Ford E-350 7.3L Turbo with ~ 65,000 miles. I've had it for only a month now and about 300 miles without issue until today. Today, I start the van and the exhaust is a bit white and smells like diesel where previously it has been running very clean. Also the power is drastically reduced. This is the first diesel I've ever owned, and my only real mechanical experience to date has been repairing my old '89 Honda motorcycle. I feel capable, but ignorant on many of these issues.

When I take out the doghouse and start it up there is a lot of grey smoke from near the turbo intake. When I give it a little gas in Park, examining the Y joint at the turbo intake, the passenger side exhausts significantly and the drivers side slightly.

Here's what else I know...
- All check engine lights look good. I start it and the oil and coolant temp lights stay on, but I turn I shut it down within a minute or two (because I'm ignorant and paranoid)
- All fluid levels look okay
- No signs of leaks anywhere

Two weeks ago I had a local shop disconnect the rear AC/Heater. They welded the rear AC lines shut under the hood. And inside the doghouse they put a U in the antifreeze line. On my own, I removed the lines from inside the hood to the back. Since doing all this work I'd driven the car twice, maybe only 10-15 miles each time, without problem. The car was sitting about a week between then and now when all the above was discovered.

Lastly, between a mechanically-inclined friend I have here who had a look at it, and the Ford dealership that did not, that it's the turbo intake and the joints at the Y that are leaking and causing all of this. Friend suggested I replace these pipes (part numbers 6K854-5 and -3); however, dealership fellow suggested it was likely the gasket within the connection between these pipes sand the Y (part number 6K854-4).

I purchased the gaskets and some JB to help undo the bolts. Before I set to doing this, would love to get some opinions here. I'm comfortable with oil changes and basic maintenance, but this has me a bit nervous and want to make sure I'm on the right path. (I already did have a go at one of these bolts and its already starting to strip, so I stopped and wanted to collect my thoughts and resolve before pursuing further).

If the gasket is to be replaced as pictured (red showing gasket, grey showing observed exhaust). Will I be able to do so removing just four bolts? From either side of this pipe. Or will I have to remove further pieces to gain more room for access?


Thank you!!

Aaron

 

I searched a couple hours before posting, but finally landed on the correct terminology to find advice on this. I understand that the donuts (rather than 'gaskets') at the Y are corroded and need to be replaced. Many users advise replacing these with a bellowed set from International, e.g. My questions are now, instead...

1) Could someone please confirm the symptoms I described with this assesment?

2) Any advice to ensure I don't strip the 10mm bolts before it's too late? I believe my sockets suck, for one, and I can find some better ones. I read another suggestion to heat the bolt head with a torch. Any ideas?

3) Does anyone have a link/reference for how-to do this? Either the donut replacement and/or with the new, bellowed kit?

I'm not entirely sure which route to go. I understand the bellowed kit will ensure longevity, but the cost is quite high and my budget is fairly tight at the moment. I'm considering running with the donut replacement for now, and saving the bellowed kit for if/when it's a problem next. I've only had the van three weeks after all at this time.

Thank you!!

 

If you've only driven it once or twice for 10-15 minutes, I suggest a little more testing and diagnostics first. The cheapest bellowed up-pipes are Dormans from RockAuto. They work fine and are way better than messing with donuts. Some guys just replace them every couple years though, and others have used donuts from SB chebbies, since they are a little thicker.
If you're blowing white smoke, I would consider replacing the fuel bowl filter and testing fuel pressure. It has to be tested under a load, not idling. These 7.3's run best at around 65 psi, and you should NOT run them at or below 50 psi. If FP is low after that, search Hutch Mod. There are cartridge filters inside the tank, in the sending unit. Hutch mod/pre filter solves that and more. Just my .02!
Here is your link:http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/upp.php

 

Voodoo, thank you!

For the symptoms, is there any danger to driving it as-is?

I'm going to go ahead and replace the up-pipes all together by ordering the Dormans. I'd love to afford the International ones for QA but it's simply out of my budget and the Dormans seem pretty sound from what I've read. Parts will come in a few days when I am away on a short five-day trip so I won't get the work done until about a week from now.

 

No problem. If it was my van, I would spend my time and money on good diagnostics first or find a real good diesel tech that knows his way around the 7.3 International. Another forum member, Pikachu, on here, is somewhere in Connecticut. Might want to send him a PM him if you don't know diesels. As for the Dormans, I put them on my van and they are great. I live in Central Texas so I also double wrapped them and painted and foil wrapped them. I grew up in upstate NY, so I would clean your new up pipes down with either rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. Then I would spray them with high heat header paint and oven cure it before install. That should help them last a little longer in the salt. I would coat your oil pan with POR-15 while you are at it because the only correct way to replace it once rusted through involves removal of engine and turning upside down while new pan sealant cures! Running these engines with extremely low fuel pressure puts a-lot at risk. First it will starve your #8 cylinder. Some of these vans have issues with fuel tank lining delamination. The lining was not intended for the biodiesel post 2008 changes by EPA. Some additives enhance tank delamination. Mine was bad. I had white smoke and no fuel pressure. It was a bear to initially diagnose, but thanks to these forums, I finally pinpointed the problem after mechanics failed. I ended up simply replacing my tank with a Spectre Tank and doing the Hutch/pre-filter mods all on one Saturday alone in my driveway (no lift), and all my problems were solved. First test FP, then we diagnose from there. Also keep track of outside temps on start up, in case you have a glow plug relay (GPR) or glow plug problem. Keep us posted. Here is where you can get a fuel bowl adapter and diesel rated Schraeder valve to thread into your bowl for FP testing:
1/8" NPT straight pressure port adapter.
http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-200...-1-8-mnpt.html

 

Thanks again voodoo! You touched on a lot of the issues I came across while researching symptoms, before noticing just how bad the leak was at the turbo up-pipes. First, I'll run with the up-pipe install and see what that addresses and take things from there. The preventative maintenance suggested is a great idea as well, no reason not to as I'll be working on the van another 2-3 months anyways before hitting the road with it. Fingers crossed the up-pipes are the source of most my current issues, as the rest of the diagnoses and fixes seem significantly ore involved in both hours and tools (the former I have in abundance, the latter is scarce beyond wrenches). I'll update again once I get the new pipes installed!

 

Soak those bolts several times for a week with some PB if you can. If you have to cut the up pipe bolts to the Y pipe, it is no big deal with the grinder, same with bolts to exhaust manifolds as they are through bolted to nuts. The new up pipes come with all new bolts. Torque spec on the V-band clamp should be around 150 in.lb. but double check that to be sure, it's been a while since I did mine. Good luck!

 

Well, I replaced the pipes and, so far as I can tell, that worked just fine! The visible leaks before are no more. However, the symptoms were not addressed at all

Here's a video I just put up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FZVw1ssnZg

Any ideas?

If (IF!) I had put gasoline instead of Diesel in to it could this cause such issues?

The total loss of power was very sudden, not a gradual decline. I doubt I could get the van out the back yard because of how weak it is right now.

Could it be electrical? A sensor broken?

Oil and coolant levels look good, no visible leaks or fluid on the ground. Oil and Coolant lights stay on after I start it but that's it.

 

So, basically, the van is still pretty ****ed and I'm reaching out for further advice. So far...

1) Replaced up-pipes with Dorman bellowed pipes
2) Extracted ~ a gallon of gas from the fuel pump (and turning the ignition a few times) and discovered that it is, in fact, diesel in the van.
3) Started the van and checked inside the radiator bowl to see the surface calm and steady, no signs of bubbling/boiling.

Still, the exhaust looks and engine sounds like the video I posted previously. After startup the only lights on are the Oil and Coolant temps (is this normal? to be on still after 30-90 seconds running?).

What do I check next?

Do I need a computer to read whatever codes the car might be throwing?

If I want to take the van to a mechanic I think I'll need to arrange a tow

Thanks you!

 

Have you posted all this in the FTE 7.3 Diesel forums? Might be some help there.

Given the severe rattle and exhaust seems there's something a more experienced mechanic having a look to help diagnosing this one. While I know almost nothing about diesel engines even when they're running normally there seems to be a severe noise over and above what one usually hears when they idle.

Exhaust smoke to that degree screams something is very wrong.

I sincerely hope the fix it easy and cheap too.

 

Shotski, you didn't mention that before, but if you put gasoline in there, you have bigger problems to worry about than an exhaust leak. These engines can run all over the country with exhaust leaks but not on gasoline. If you want a real good way to read codes and so much more, order a wifi OBD2 adapter from Amazon. I have a Vee Peak OBD2 adapter that I bought for $16. Then purchase Torque Pro ($6) app if you have a Droid phone or tablet. Buy Dash Command app if you have an iPhone or iPad. Set it up with Ford parameters and you're good to go. There's tons of info on this on the diesel forum on this site. Check it out.

 

Voodoo, I ended up starting a thread in the 7.3 forum. Just noticed you do have the exact same van as me too! Haven't spent much time on any forums in a long time... in any case. I ended up going out today and getting an Innova 3040c. Good advice on the adapter and app though, that might be a better long-term solution for me as I'm bound to return this thing within a few days.

The results I put up here, on the other thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16364378

Also, I thought I may have put gasoline in it. That was me just going down the checklist on what could possibly have caused all this; however, the fuel is fine, it's diesel, been diesel all along.

 

Yes, I get compliments on how incredibly smooth my engine runs all the time. Took lots of research on what mods to make and some work, but worth it! I wouldn't hesitate to take mine cross country, in fact I have recently, pulling a 9500 lb. trailer! No problems. At least start out with Torque Pro with Ford PIDs. That also allows you to see transmission temp, etc, without adding the expensive gauge. I do understand that a new diesel owner might pull up and use a gas pump out of habit, so I would recommend buying a replacement green gas cap and possibly putting a "diesel fuel only" sticker" above filler. Not many people expect a van to be diesel, so if other people might borrow or drive it, I would. The 7.3 in your van is the same as in the trucks, but there are some differences you need to understand before getting all kinds of advice from truck owners. You do not have an inter cooler, but you do have a much larger turbo AR. That is why the vans are de-tuned with @ 80 hp less than the trucks. You have a belt driven vacuum pump, they do not. Your second battery is underneath side cargo door because there's no extra room under hood. Your exhaust output adapter with exhaust back pressure butterfly is also different. Obviously, you do not have a tach, another reason to get Torque Pro with wifi adapter. Blue tooth adapter works but readings are delayed some. Wifi is faster and doesn't interfere with calls if you're using blue tooth headset. Do you have any records from PO? Any info on that would help too.

 

Voodoo you're a champ!! haha thanks! Been wondering what the differences were between engines, sometimes the most seemingly straightforward information is the hardest to find.

I ordered a tablet and bluetooth adapter, should be here on Monday or Tuesday to get on this. Also I'm heavily considering taking it to the shop and not questioning any further. While I love tinkering and want to be familiar with the car, all my hopes and dreams rest in the campervan construction and this engine business is just destroying my morale at the moment. Anyways, I'll keep busy with some basic bodywork that still has to happen no matter what and hopefully get either some PID reads or a full diagnostic from the shop on Monday or Tuesday... updates coming to the other thread.

 

Shotski, keep your head up, Brother! You bought the right van with extremely low mileage, and I'm assuming you got it cheaper because PO didn't want to deal with it. Once a few things get worked out, that thing will be chugging down the highway for years to come! Mine is constantly loaded at 8500 lbs. total and I always get 17 mpg. More on long highway trips if I go light on the pedal! I eventually pass newer diesels when they're broken down or refilling their DEF fluid! Cheers!