Six cylinder mechanical fuel pump to electric?
#1
#2
Why do you want to run elect. pump over the stock mech. one?
I do not see a need for elect. even for off road use only that the stock pump will not do.
As long as the motor is running the stock pump will pump. Lay the truck on its side or roof and the motor will stop running and the pump stops - no gas pumping out!
Elect. pump will keep pumping even up side down till you turn the key off.
Ask me how I know this - I raced 4x4 off road and the rules said you had to have a kill switch with in reach of driver and out side personal to kill all elect. devices - read motor & elect fuel pumps. And yes I have laid them on the side & rolled them over and happy the kill switch turned everything off.
But if you want elect. any one will work. Just know elect. pump should be wet all the time - it will not pull (suck fuel) from the tank and should be below the fuel level.
So with all that the pump should be mounted back by the tank and below the liquid level. Should also by wired thru a relay for full power.
Depending on the pump & carb you may also need to plumb in a fuel pressure regulator if using an elect. pump.
For safety I would stay stock.
Dave ----
I do not see a need for elect. even for off road use only that the stock pump will not do.
As long as the motor is running the stock pump will pump. Lay the truck on its side or roof and the motor will stop running and the pump stops - no gas pumping out!
Elect. pump will keep pumping even up side down till you turn the key off.
Ask me how I know this - I raced 4x4 off road and the rules said you had to have a kill switch with in reach of driver and out side personal to kill all elect. devices - read motor & elect fuel pumps. And yes I have laid them on the side & rolled them over and happy the kill switch turned everything off.
But if you want elect. any one will work. Just know elect. pump should be wet all the time - it will not pull (suck fuel) from the tank and should be below the fuel level.
So with all that the pump should be mounted back by the tank and below the liquid level. Should also by wired thru a relay for full power.
Depending on the pump & carb you may also need to plumb in a fuel pressure regulator if using an elect. pump.
For safety I would stay stock.
Dave ----
#3
I installed the pump just downstream of the tank selector valve. I also recommend the Carter 18-4U isolation mount kit. These are rubber shock mounts that help keep the pump quiet. With these isolators, I can't hear the pump over the sound of the engine.
I absolutely, positively insist you include some sort of automatic electric shutoff. Do NOT rely on a manual switch. If you are incapacitated for any reason in an accident, the pump will be perfectly content to supply plenty of fuel to any fire. I used an oil pressure safety switch, NAPA #OP6616. This works the opposite of an idiot light switch, and provides continuity to power the pump as long as oil pressure is present. The thinking is as long as the engine is running and making oil pressure, it's safe to feed it fuel.
I also added a momentary (spring-loaded off) toggle switch to prime the carb before starting. Since my truck is not my daily driver, the fuel often evaporates from the carb when not in use. Priming the carb before hitting the starter cuts WAY down on cranking time. Your battery will thank you.
#4
I agree with Fuzz, unless you are experiencing vapor lock issues, there should be no reason to stray from the stock mechanical fuel pump. What I found with mine was, somewhere in the truck's life, the PO had patched the steel fuel line from the pump to the carb with neoprene hose and worm clamps causing leaks and pressure loss. The PO did not "bump flare" the remaining steel line ends to insure that the neoprene hose "patch" had half a chance of sealing. I have since replaced the hacked up fuel supply to a solid steel line with the correct flared fittings and now.... it functions as it should with proper pressure, and no leaks.
#5
After plenty of vapor lock issues, I ditched the stock mechanical pump and am running a Carter P4600HP on my '84 351W. With almost 2 years on it, I am still very pleased. Not sure what fuel pressure your engine needs, but this pump is rated at 6-8 psi, which is perfect for my engine.
I installed the pump just downstream of the tank selector valve. I also recommend the Carter 18-4U isolation mount kit. These are rubber shock mounts that help keep the pump quiet. With these isolators, I can't hear the pump over the sound of the engine.
I absolutely, positively insist you include some sort of automatic electric shutoff. Do NOT rely on a manual switch. If you are incapacitated for any reason in an accident, the pump will be perfectly content to supply plenty of fuel to any fire. I used an oil pressure safety switch, NAPA #OP6616. This works the opposite of an idiot light switch, and provides continuity to power the pump as long as oil pressure is present. The thinking is as long as the engine is running and making oil pressure, it's safe to feed it fuel.
I also added a momentary (spring-loaded off) toggle switch to prime the carb before starting. Since my truck is not my daily driver, the fuel often evaporates from the carb when not in use. Priming the carb before hitting the starter cuts WAY down on cranking time. Your battery will thank you.
I installed the pump just downstream of the tank selector valve. I also recommend the Carter 18-4U isolation mount kit. These are rubber shock mounts that help keep the pump quiet. With these isolators, I can't hear the pump over the sound of the engine.
I absolutely, positively insist you include some sort of automatic electric shutoff. Do NOT rely on a manual switch. If you are incapacitated for any reason in an accident, the pump will be perfectly content to supply plenty of fuel to any fire. I used an oil pressure safety switch, NAPA #OP6616. This works the opposite of an idiot light switch, and provides continuity to power the pump as long as oil pressure is present. The thinking is as long as the engine is running and making oil pressure, it's safe to feed it fuel.
I also added a momentary (spring-loaded off) toggle switch to prime the carb before starting. Since my truck is not my daily driver, the fuel often evaporates from the carb when not in use. Priming the carb before hitting the starter cuts WAY down on cranking time. Your battery will thank you.
I did the same on my 51 Merc Flathead, although I did have to prime the glass bowl on the Merc. In hindsight, I highly doubt that I would have "rolled" either one of them though, given their curb weight. In a accident....I think the other vehicle would draw the short straw, even with "crumple zones"
#6
#7
My guess it was old stock and the rubber was 1-dried out, 2-not made for todays gas with alky in it. It will eat up old rubber parts in no time!
Try buying it someplace else and make sure it is not made by the same people as your bad ones.
Dave ----
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#8
Yeah 1 thing I have learned not to buy vital parts from Autozone, their stuff always fail on me. Sure the lifetime warranty is nice but what good is it when your stranded on the side of the road. I buy from Napa now. I have never had an issue with their stuff yet as for me. Sure their stuff is a little more then some places, but its worth it to me if the parts works and lasts.
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