6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

front caliper bolts

  #1  
Old 06-02-2016, 01:57 PM
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Question front caliper bolts

What is the trick to getting these retainer bolts loose? Have tried impact gun, tried long breaker bar hitting their mount with hammer nothing seems to work! trying to install new rotors and pads. On 04 FX4.

Thanks:
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:16 PM
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No trick, try PB blaster and let then soak, then lots of huff and puffing
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:17 PM
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Penetrating fluid, and then heat if that doesn't work. A few days before brake or suspension work i would also hit the fasteners i'm removing with PB Blaster a few times a day to give the best chance. Everything rusts up pretty easy down there
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:19 PM
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I Just had to remove front caliper bolts on my 550 for a 4wd front end swap. I put an 18" long 1/2" breaker bar on there with the appropriate socket and used a cheater bar. Think it was my jack handle. It worked but was still a bit tough to get off. PB Blaster for sure.
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:15 PM
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That lock tight they use from the factory is stout on the retaining bracket. I use a 5ft pipe to get it loose then the impact.
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:04 PM
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I've told this before. One of my guys, stoutly built, with a Superduty on a lift at the proper height, following our company EHS safety rule and methods, tore through a biceps tendon removing one of those bolts. EHS working procedure was rewritten so we could only remove those bolts with an impact, usually a really good 1/2" or a 3/4" air impact at 100psi. It was us in the facility that all agreed to that change.
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:24 PM
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I had to use a hydraulic jack under the end of a long breaker bar to get it loose.
 
  #8  
Old 06-02-2016, 07:01 PM
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Ok guys thanks, finally got them loose and now have been waiting on tech support from the place I ordered everything (3hrs so far). The new pads were not drilled for the separator springs and they have not gotten back as to whether they sent wrong pads or the springs are not required! They indicated I orered wrong stuff but it was their recommendation of what I ordered!

Again thanks, have 1 side apart waiting on their reply.
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I've told this before. One of my guys, stoutly built, with a Superduty on a lift at the proper height, following our company EHS safety rule and methods, tore through a biceps tendon removing one of those bolts. EHS working procedure was rewritten so we could only remove those bolts with an impact, usually a really good 1/2" or a 3/4" air impact at 100psi. It was us in the facility that all agreed to that change.
Ouch!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:26 PM
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I just posted this on the org.

The springs were part of ~2001 maturing of the product line to try to keep the pads off the rotors and prevent rotor pulsation from developing.
 
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:11 AM
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We are talking the anchor bolts?

Heat on the threaded end to help break down the locking compound
and a 1/2" impact wrench works wonders. Most of the penetrating oils
won't do you any good when thread locking compound is used.

But if I am using penetrating oil (Kroil my favorite) I like to do the heating
first then spray the oil on the bolt to cool and draw the oil in any openings.

Then take the impact and whack the snot out of it.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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