Ok I am done, if my comments are not going to be fully read through then I don't know why I am wasting my time explaining what I am seeing only for what I am seeing to be ignored.

Ive said three times that the front side of the yoke is dry only the back side up against the U joint is wet, sure that could be explained away by a car that has been driven but this car hasn't been on the road in over 31 years. So when it starts drip drip drip at a steady fast 1 drip a second pace but you run your finger around the shank of the yoke and its dry behind the tail shaft seal well then obviously that seal is not the leak then.

 

If the extension housing seal is not the cause of the leak, where else could the ATF be coming from?

 

Where else?

Its coming from the back of the yoke itself as Ive said now four times, when its dripping steadily at 1 drip a second the only wet spot on the yoke is on the back side of it. Only thing there is the plug that blocks off the splines into the transmission tail shaft. Only way to explain it is the transmission fluid is leaking past the splines and out the back of the yoke since there is no plug there to contain it anymore.

Other than that, where else could it come from? You say tail shaft seal but the tail shaft seal is dry when its dripping at 1 drip a second. Yoke is dry as well till you get to the back side of it then it is just dripping wet with ATF.

 

I understand what you are saying, I've seen yokes with a plug in the past but don't recall what they were for. My T85 trans has a seal on the output shaft the fits into the front of the yoke, similar to what you described that the C6 uses..

 

Bill, this is what he is talking about.

 

I just wonder if the plug was popped out from atf being in the slip yoke and had no where to go on axle rebound. Dont see why since all diagrams for 5he ford o matic shows no o ring seal to keep the fluid out of 5he slipe yoke splines.

 

Really hard to tell, I'm not sure it could build that much pressure, the fluid should be able to be pushed back into the trans on rebound I would think. Doesn't the FOM have a vent to prevent any pressure build up? Maybe it's the wrong/to long driveshaft and the trans output shaft drove the plug out?

 

Don't think its too long of a drive shaft, the seal rides about the center of the yoke and you got another good 3 inches before the yoke bottoms out against the transmission but even if it did that theres still like a half inch from the face of the yoke and the back side of it where the plug is and the output shaft only sticks out about a 1/4" or so.

As far as the vent goes I am not sure. I am just rolling around in my head cause the last few years the owner of the car was still alive this one wasn't driven much so I am wondering if the converter drained back filled the yoke up and driving down the road it hydro locked the drive shaft when it tried to slide and blew the plug out. But if fluid is able to get into the yoke it should be able to be pushed out. After all there is no seal on the yoke to prevent atf from getting to the splines so it shouldn't hurt it.

 

Doesn't sound like any good reason for the plug to come out, maybe just right it off as one of those fluke things that happen..

 

Well new yoke is installed put the drive shaft in along with the Ford-O-Matic dust boot on the tail shaft. Didn't get to run the car and top it off till yesterday. Might need to get another battery cause I charged it for 2 hours on the slow 2A charge might not have been enough but its still starting two days in a row if it goes dead again just sitting a week or two then the battery must be bad.

Aside from that took 2 quarts of Type A to bring it back into the middle of the add/full scale sat over night no drips on the yoke and nothing on the ground. Started up again today shifted through reverse to drive still makes a little groan going into drive might need to add half a quart more and bring it back closer to the full mark but it could also be the transmission rod from the bell crank I had to adjust it once before might need to do it again but wont do that till after I swap the original 4V intake and holley 4000 back on then I will go through everything and reset it to specifications.

Only thing different is I am contemplating running a Petronix Ignitor III on the rebuilt dist I will be ordering. I was thinking just the Ignitor II but what ever I run I want to try and make all connections inside the dist so I can retain my OEM reproduction wires from the coil to the dist.