Hello all, I'm new to the site and to old trucks, was very happy to find such an active forum for the 61-66 with so much great info. I just wanted to introduce myself and my truck and ask a couple questions to get me started on the right track.

I work restoring classic cars, mostly foreign stuff, but this is the first real classic I've owned: 64 F100 shortbed, 262ci 6cyl with a 3-speed column shift.

The truck is a runner, I drove it 40mi home the day I bought it, but she needs a good going through and needs it now. I plan to use the truck around town for the next two months during a house remodel project, then she'll move to her permanent position as a shop truck hauling parts and motorcycles.

Warranty Plate info:
F10JE445749
Trans code A
Axle Code 12

I need this truck to do some work real soon, so I'm hoping you can help me get her sorted out.

So far this week she has new plugs, new engine trans and diff oils, brake overhaul, and grease wherever I could find a grease fitting.

I had planned to order replacement parts as needed from Dennis Carpenter or NPD unless you guys suggested otherwise.

Only immediate body issue is that I don't have a tailgate! PO gave me one but the rot is so bad its not worth fixing. I read that gates fit all the way to '79, is this correct? Anything more to it? Otherwise I'm off to the yard next week to pull one!

Current mechanical issues:

-Shifter is SUPER sloppy. Bad news, lots of missing 1-2 shift if you dont catch the detent just right, hard to find 1st/wants to jump out of 1st, grinds a bit into reverse.
I found some info from Number Dummy on another post, indicating that these parts will correct the shifter play

C3TZ-7343-A Bushing & Insulator Kit
C3DZ-3517-A Upper/Lower Steering Column Bearing
B1AZ-3518-A Nylon Bearing Sleeve

Can anyone confirm quantities needed? Do I need to order 2 C3DZ-3517-A bearings, for example?

Also, will this correct the play AT the shift lever/handle itself? Mine must have 3-4 inches of free play in every direction. If there are further parts needed to tighten up the feel at the column I'd love to know.

-Steering has a lot of play on center. I don't want to fully rebuild this steering as I will go to IFS soon but I want it safe and reliable, so if there are must-replace items here please let me know.

-I have been holding off on the coolant flush because the radiator is super old and crusty, lots of fin damage etc, and I was looking into replacements. Does anyone have specific recommendations?

-Also, I have been unable to locate a water temp sender, looks like it was taken off at some point and replaced with a valve to shut off flow to heater core. Can someone confirm that the front water pump flange is correct location for temp sender on this motor?

-Wiper switch is gone, motor and blades and wiring looks intact but no switch. Haven't tested motor yet. Looks like if the motor tests ok I need to order a switch and **** (I found the trim ring in the glovebox) and new blades.
-Should I upgrade the whole system and if so with what parts?

-Clutch release is all the way up top and groaning/shuddering on engagement. Anything to be done about this?

Brake Overhaul details:

After finding some info here about swapping to dual master from later F-series I picked up a '70 F100 master, ran new hard and soft lines and replaced all wheel cylinders. Shoes and drums looked good. The brakes feel awesome after a refresh, but I had a hell of a time getting the right parts locally. Front wheel cyl's that were listed for '64 2WD had the wrong angle for the brake hose fitting and hose wouldn't clear the kingpin. I ended up finding a set listed for '69 F100 2WD that fit correctly. I found it interesting that my 4 wheel drum setup is full manual adjustment. Were self-adjusters not factory equipment in '64?


Sorry to be so long winded just hoping to provide as much info up front as possible. Thanks in advance!

 

If you have not already, get a shop manual for it. That will help with some of your questions here and have answers to future questions right at your fingertips.

RE the clutch engagement, if it is right at the top then the adjustment is incorrect, assuming there aren't other issues. There should be 1/4" of free play between the clutch fork and adjustment nut / pushrod. That should provide something like 1 1/2" of pedal travel before the throwout bearing is even pushing on the pressure plate (refer to your shop manual).
Make sure bellhousing and transmission bolts are tight. Also, rusted cab mounts and missing or bad mounting rubbers can cause the clutch to shudder. Either one of those will allow the cab to move in relation to the frame which in turn moves the clutch linkage, resulting in a shudder.

 

F10 = F100 2WD

J = 223 1V I-6 (B is the engine code for the 262 I-6).

E = Mahwah NJ Assembly Plant.

445749 = 1964, assembled August 1963.

114" wheelbase.

J = Rangoon Red.

F101 = F100 2WD .. 4,200 lbs. GVWR

E81: E = Red Crush Vinyl & Red Check Stripe Woven Plastic / 81 = 81B Custom Cab.

A = Ford type 3.03 3 Speed Manual all Syncromesh Transmission.

12 = Ford 9" Rear Axle / 3.89-1 / 3,300 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity.

4,200 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

114 net HP @ 3,600 RPM

21 = Atlanta GA Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
C3DZ-3517-A .. Steering Column Bearing / Available from Ford.

Misc applications: 1961/64 F100/250 2WD (upper) / 1965/73 F100/250 2WD (upper & lower).

There is no lower bearing because the steering shaft goes directly into the gearbox. Beginning with 1965 F100/250 2WD, the steering shaft connects to the steering gear box w/a steering coupler (rag joint).

B1AZ-3518-A .. Steering Column Nylon Bearing Sleeve / Available from Ford.

Same applications as C3DZ-3517-A
----------------------------------------
C3TZ-10884-A .. Temperature Sender (Motorcraft SW-391) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

I-6: Threads into a boss located on right (passenger) side rear of the cylinder head (see 10884 in lower picture).

All 1963/64 I-6 & V8 (gas) Ford Trucks. E100 & P100 144/170 I-6 use a different sender.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
See upper pic: The manual steering gear boxes on these Ford trucks were crap from day one. It isn't too long before there's play in the steering wheel.

To tighten things up, you could replace the (2) steering shaft & worm bearings (3571) & cups (3552) and the (1) sector shaft bushing (3576), plus the seal (3591) & gasket (3581), all available NOS.

I can give you the complete part numbers/sources if you wish.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
C4TZ-9940700-A .. Styleside Tailgate 1964/66 F100/250 2WD & 1966 F100 4WD / Obsolete-Replaced

September 1966, Ford replaced C4TZ-9940700-A with C7TZ-9940700-A 1967 (1967/72) F100/350 Styleside tailgate for use as a "service part replacement."

ALL the mounting hardware is exactly the same, but the 1967/72 tailgate looks slightly different. 1964/66 had large FORD block letters.

1967/72 has smaller FORD letters surrounded by a raised ovate scallop line.

1973/79 F100/350 Styleside tailgate looks completely different. All the mounting hardware is different except the "scissors" (R/L tailgate supports).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Self adjusters were introduced in 1964 F100 2WD .. but they were problematic (the cables snapped, the adjusters rusted solid), so some people removed them, installed a kit from NAPA to eliminate them.

 

Thanks Charlie, definitely ordered a shop manual first thing, I have it now.

The whole clutch actuation assembly looks pretty tired and I need to soak down the locknuts on that pushrod to adjust. It doesn't seem to have any free play. I will check tranny and belhousing bolts today. I have already ordered the motor mounts with the shift bushings etc from Dennis Carpenter. LMC is the only vendor I found with cab mounts available? Haven't ordered yet but plan to do that this week.

This is great thanks again guys.

 

Thanks ND!

I must have gotten my info mixed up looking at the VIN decoder initially for engine codes.

Also interesting to note the truck was sold new in GA, I wonder if she spent her whole life here in the south. She's definitely still carrying plenty of Georgia clay, I've only managed to wash off the first layer from the undercarriage.

I ordered all the parts mentioned for column shift, as well as engine mounts. Do you know if cab mounts are available NOS or should be bought from LMC or...?

I found and replaced the temp sensor at that location rear pass side of head, gauge still inop so more testing required there. The valve is located on the hose fitting at the water pump housing.

I'm not sure if the wipers are 1 or 2 speed, still haven't gotten to testing, spent all day on my Carter YFA....

The wiper motor has a part # C4TF-17504-B and the harness connector for switch is a staggered 4-pin with a lead for grounding. This doesn't appear to be OE equipment harness from my research but obviously I'm not sure.

OK so I need to limit my search to 64-72 for a tailgate.... anyone have experience with repops? I'd prefer to find original but so far nothing that early in my area and I don't want to wait around.

All this info is really helpful, you guys are awesome.

 

Maybe you guys can help me with this fueling issue

I pulled the carb off the truck today trying to sort out a bad bog under throttle tip-in. The carb is a Carter YFA, I was able to source a rebuild kit locally and replace the old nasty accel pump diaphragm, float needle and seat assembly and misc gaskets. I set float level to 3/8" and float drop to 1 1/4". Accel pump armature set per instructions in Carter rebuild kit.

It's great at WOT and OK at idle, RPMs set 500 or so and mixture screw set using idle drop method about 1.25 turns out. After new parts idle is smoother but still bogging under load, this occurs consistently under acceleration unless you tip-in to throttle very gradually.

Feels like an issue transitioning to main from low speed circuit, plugs and odor indicate rich running, but I'm not sure how to address it.

Given how beat up the carb is I thought about replacing the whole thing, but it doesn't look like there are many straightforward, inexpensive options.

 

Pictures of wiper harness connector and carb ID # for reference

 

One of the things to check on tip in stumble, is the heat riser in the exhaust manifold. Make sure it is free and the bi-metallic spring is OK and closes the heat riser. Exhaust heat needed to properly vaporize fuel as it hits the plenum in intake manifold. Even if operating freely I have seen the plate welded on the shaft burned away and once found the welds were broken holding the plate on the shaft. If frozen closed it becomes an exhaust restriction.

 

I just went through the whole shifter and linkage on our 64 this past winter. If you search you should be able to find my post. I ended up rebushing everything after I welded and reshaped the rod ends and welded and redrilled the arms. The shift tube was severely worn and took quite a bit of work to weld and reshape. I have an extra now if you need one (not reproduced). Also took the entire column out and cleaned and rebuilt the shift arms.

Enjoy that 262. We love ours. Kind of rare in a pickup as well.

 

Carb is not the original, Carter's not installed until 1968. The original would have been an Auto-Lite 1100 series 1V

 

Yes I learned carb was not original when I went looking for rebuild parts. It's not in great shape, trying to work with it. Auto choke has been disabled and a manual choke cable was rigged up but inop. Gotta figure out a cable mount setup and reattach choke plate to correct.

I spent today on the intake manifold, I was concerned after IICAPs comment that my rider valve was stuck shut. Riser spring was long gone, couldn't rotate counterweight.

So I pulled the whole assembly to check that, clean paint and reinstall. The plate was partially closed, I debated removing it from the rod but I was able to lube and lever it into full open position so I decided the leave it in place. The riser plate was in good condition, but the rod is heavily corroded in its bores on the manifold. I didn't want to risk leaks so this seemed least aggressive option. I didn't take pics before but it was rough. Degreased, wire brushed and painted with hi temp. Not pretty but much better.








Unfortunately I still have the same miss, and now I'm having trouble getting the exhaust pipe to manifold flange sealed. I scraped the gasket remnants from both mating surfaces and used the flat gasket provided in the new manifold gasket kit, but the gasket seems too thin. Or the collector flange is not mating properly. It wasn't leaking here previously and I didn't see any cracks on the manifold.




Back to the running condition: I have not checked valves or timing yet, so I'm thinking that's where I need to go, at least to remove variables and because I'm sure it needs it anyhow.

Compression readings when I brought her home were all between 115 and 130psi. Idle can be set smooth, starts very easily, but bogs on tip-in and puffs smoke from exhaust on decel and top of valve cover at oil filler.

I haven't run her long enough to determine extent of oil consumption but it doesn't seem severe, smoke seems more fuel than oil laden. I'm going to add some engine oil treatment to the fresh 10w30 I'm running to see if it reduces smoke, maybe sticky rings. Otherwise I'm guessing valve seals would be the culprit?

She's going to have to wait for a real motor overhaul, or replacement, but I'd like to do as much as possible to ensure reliable operation in the meanwhile.

 

Just a wrap up on the heat riser. So you didn't free up the shaft completely and the spring(s) are gone. And have the plate wide open. You know the plate is good. Is the pin still there that the spring wraps too?

After you do all else, tune up to correct specs, engine off looking at accelerator pump discharge to see that it is squirting gas IMMEDIATELY on movement of throttle shaft, and that float level is accurate (low fuel level in bowl will cause hesitation) and stumble is still there.

You still need to fix the heat riser so it will work. Free up the shaft, it will fall to the wide open position anyway, it should not leak to annoyance. Look into getting the correct spring(s), sometimes a second spring is used to prevent shaft from rattling. Maybe Bill ND will post pic of all required parts.

 

Yes, the pin is still in place.

I live in FL where temps are almost never below 50deg, I understand the function of the heat riser but many seem to suggest removing altogether. I do not believe this one will function again without bushing the manifold, the rod and casting are corroded that severely, especially on the exterior. I'm just nervous about messing with the manifold as I understand they are hard to come by and I need the truck running for now.

I will perform the rest of tune up this weekend and maybe engine mounts. Shift bushing parts will be here on Sat so hope to get into that as well.

Thanks guys!

 

That truck will never run right with that carburetor. Petronix will do nothing for it. Originally that truck had an autolite 1100 equipped with a spark valve plumbed into the distributor. This system is known as Loadamatic. The carburetor and distributor are a matched pair. It was used on 49-53 Flatheads,y blocks until about 57 or so and Ford sixes into the late 60s. The distributor has no mechanical advance and is only vacuum operated. It has to be mated with a proper carburetor with the spark control valve to work. Regular carb vacuum will not operate the system correctly.

Remedy...
Find a 1964 carb with the spark control, plumb it correctly and make sure you original distributor advance is in good working order.

Find a dual point Mallory 223 mechanical advance unit $$$

Modify a 72 300cid standard point distributor with standard mechanical/vacuum advance to match your present carburetor. The 300 distributor will need a modified to fit 223 gear and the shaft may need to be shortened. You can do the same with a later 300 distributor if you wanted electronic duraspark II. Later distributors Duraspark IIIs used a crank trigger or sensor for timing so avoid those.

Think hard about about keeping the straight axle. It's simple works beautifully in spec and IMHO makes a 64 kind of special as it was the last.

 

Interesting. Im familiar with the loadamatic system from reading about the truck. i thought I'd seen that the YF/YFA swap was common on this older trucks because it was compatible with the ignition systems. I'm not loving this carb and will likely order a new one. Is the Autolite the way to go? Holley 1940? Other options?

Thanks for the recommendations, I've been looking into those ignition options as well. So it sounds like loadamatic should run original carbs, what is the preferred carb for Duraspark?

In typical old car fashion I've gone through the carb and ignition setting things to spec and it now runs worse than before... But hey that's part of the fun!

In other news I fixed the terrible shift play. After pulling the column shifter out I found the riveted tab at the top of the tube where the shifter mates was deformed and loose. I welded up the whole tab and redrilled, reassembled with a NOS collar from eBay and the new bearing and sleeve, shifting is great now. Interestingly the collar I sourced took a rollpin for the shift lever that was smaller than the pin on the original, so that had to be drilled out.

I didn't pull the whole column or steering box although I may go back in to check things out.








As for the front axle, I have considered rebuilding it while I'm driving the truck around stock. Still too early for me to know what direction I will take for a lot of stuff on the build. I do prefer engineering retrofits so the stock equipment can go back on if the next guy wants it.