Shorting anything connected to the PCM is a good way to risk killing the PCM itself.

Twenty-year-old diesel trucks have no EGR, DPFE, none (or few) of the encumberances of newer diesels. That's the EBP sensor; it measures exhaust back pressure. That's a pipe, not a solid line, and the other end threads into one of the exhaust manifolds. It's so arranged/located because that sensor would be destroyed by heat if it were installed directly in the exhaust manifold. There's probably a "soft" code set for the EBP sensor, one that doesn't turn on the CE light.

A common problem with the pipe, to which knottyrope was referring, is that soot collects in the pipe, and the sensor no longer reads properly. You can remove the pipe at the manifold and attempt to blow it out, or run a speedometer or bike brake cable on a drill motor into it to dislodge the soot. The fitting right on the manifold can also get clogged.

I'll have to go look at my '95 fuel bowl, to see which of yours it most closely matches. But the one thing that stands out is that the old bowl has a plumbing plug in the fuel filter sensor fitting, on the rear-facing side of the bowl, toward the bottom (you can see the open fitting on the other bowl). It's common for that sensor to leak, and since it only drives the dash light and has no effect on engine operation, people often replace it with an NPT plug, as this one is.

 

I would also like to point out, your truck, or any PSD truck , does NOT have a PCV valve.... the crankcase is vented directly to the intake before the turbo via atmospheric pressure, no valve what so ever.

 

I found this out. Its just a "Blowby". Lol. I'm getting there! I also replace that EBP sensor.

80 miles later on the way home I had no issues whatsoever. I had GREAT exceleration on the hills and power out the ***. This truck is a beast. However...3 miles from home as I stopped to cross the center of the highway to go down my back road....I had a massive cloud of greyish smoke come out of the exhaust and a loud tapping started. As soon as I took off and got the rpms up it all went away. Yet came back when I slowed down or the rpms dropped back down. So I got it home and parked. Instantly figured injector. I had my buddy start the truck while the covers were off and I had a crap load of smoke come out of #3 and #6. I pulled the two and one had a shattered copper washer and the other had o-rings that were so brittle they came off in pieces. So I went down and grabbed 8 o-ring sets. I figured I might as well replace them all. Did the glow plugs too since I was right there. I pulled all the injectors, found no cracks or damage to any of them, replaced the o-rings. Put it all back together, the knock was still there as was the smoke. The smoke I expected for a few, but not the knocks. So I did musical connectors on the outside of the valve covers to no avail. So I guess I am going to pull the covers again and check each one. I don't really feel like dropping an arm and leg on all new injectors. I have a feeling there is more than 1 bad injector too as both the connectors on the passenger side showed signs of not responding.

I did pick up a box of injectors from someone on craigslist for $50. The plan is to rebuild them. I see the rebuild kit goes for $180. Then swap them with the ones in the truck. Is there a way to bench test these injectors like a gassers injectors?

 

Rebuilding the injectors for these trucks is not for the average Joe. To check them correctly you need a flow bench. Send them to Jim at Rosewood Diesel for a proper rebuild.

 

I'm not fearful of work. Lol. I've rebuilt diesel injectors from a VW, but they are quite different. I also noticed Jim doesn't offer those DIY injector rebuild kits anymore. Darn! Do you know how much and how long it takes for him to rebuild them? I go out of town on Tuesday, if I can send them off to be rebuilt before I go, they could be here when I get back.

 

Never mind. I didn't see the prices before when I visited the site. That's not much of a warranty on those. I can get a 3 year warranty for the same price. :/

 

Also, what was the factory installed injectors? This kid I bought it from said the injectors were all replaced. When I pulled the covers I discovered three were Alliant, yellow tops. And the others just say REMANUFACTURED across them. I'm assuming Alliant was the factory stuff. If so.....all the alliant ones had nasty o-rings and/or broken brass washers on the bottom.

 

Alliants were the stock ones.

 

Thanks! I figured as much.

Will AB injectors work in my rig? I have the opportunity to grab some with 80k on them for $600. Guy is upgrading his injectors.

 

From who? Rosewood is a well known rebuilder. who's the other guy\guy's.

 

AB injectors won't work due to them being split shots (unless you get split shot tunning) and your HPOP wontbsupply enough oil to those split shots.

 

Is advise you not to rebuild them yourself. There's more to it than tearing them apart a slapping new orings in them and putting them back together. You'll have to do machine work the injector body due to the poppet valve wearing into the injector body. More machine work on the plungers to get them to flow the same. Most builder selling these injectors just change internal/external orings and put shims under the armature plate to bring them back to spec. With Jim you get a true build with all new orings, mechining, flow tested and customer service that no one else can provide

 

TikiWiki : H.E.U.I Injector Disassembly and Assembly

 

Abso-dang-lutely!! Heed this advice.

 

I understand the process. The other guy would be a vendor for brand new injectors. I can get brand new injectors with 3 year warranties from BWD less than Jim's rebuild after my core returns.

And thanks for the advice on the AB's. I'm not into doing all those extra mods right now. Later yes, but not now.

Sounds like I'm going to go through every injector and replace the trouble ones for now. I didn't see any damage to the outside if the injectors, but considering 3 of these have been in the truck for 20 years, I know I'm not gonna get away with the $500.