9000's are silver these days. Been a while since they were white. In regards to coating they are clear coated at the factory, but an extra layer of clear coat or Fluid Film will increase the life of the finish. Our RS7000MT Monotube is brushed/zinc plated and clear coated.

 

White? What are you talking about? They're painted silver. Or as Rancho calls it "Liquid metallic finish" whatever that's supposed to mean. For more info: http://bfy.tw/62Yn

EDIT: Beaten like a redhead step mule.

 

I have the Rancho RS7000s and they are really nice for the price

 

And on rebate now too!
Promotions

 

I'm getting ready to order a set of 9000s before the rebate runs out!

 

Why such a surprise with White? All the Ranchos I see (and have seen) are white with red rubber dust covers. Do I live on Mars? Apparently. Come to think of it maybe my buds truck 9000s may be silver just never paid it enough attention.
How do the 7000 compare to the 9000 besides the 9000 being adjustable?
Again zinc coating is the only way to go where I live. Thats the reason Im swayed towards Bilstein. If Im spending 3-400 on shocks I dont want rust nor have to do anything to them to prevent it. Zinc needs nothing but a wipe down to keep looking new. Put Zinc coated option on the list and into the suggestion bag. As Id prefer the meatier Ranchos.

 

Nice! Ends June 30th. If you install yourself save all UPC's.

No surprise about the white honestly, it is just "old school" it seems these days on the 9 series. So a 7000 will be like a 7-8 all the time out of the 9 settings on the RS9000XL. It is not as high a gas charge as other monotube shocks out there so not as a firm ride.
In regards to the finish zinc plated is nice but I have seen them pit out and rust too.
ANY shock I would hit with an added protection of clear coat or Fluid Film, from a $50 shock to a baller shock (Maybe on the baller shock a little different than a clear coat. My friends in desert and ULTRA4 racing pretty much tear them down after each race anyways..)

 

Hummm. Really want the Rancho adjustables. Im trying to somewhat tame a 250 with the plow/camper package. Its a 3/4 ton truck I dont expect a Cadillac ride but when it hits the dam heaved up expansion joints on the freeway it really toss you around. Want to quell/control that.

What do you recommend and what can I expect to pay for each? I tow a small 14' enclosed work trailer occasionally tow a car on a beaver tail trailer and do only small amounts of off road. Most driving is highway. Currently has 17" 285 tires. May be looking into new OEM take off 18s or 20s in the near future.

 

What year truck? Once I have that I will get it for a 4WD F-250.
Also what tire pressure too? That is a big factor too.


Cost is $100-110 advertised BUT remember you might (most likely) get a better price Look to a vendor on here to discuss that.

 

2011 F250 with Plow/Camper package, 4WD SuperCab, 6 foot box. I run the tire pressure at the recommended 80 but I will occasionally bring it down to 65-70psi

 

What? Who recommended to you that you run 80, and in what conditions?

 

RS999042 front
RS999254 rear
And try and drop that tire pressure too.
Thanks Matt

 

A little late to the party but subscribing.

 

Cuz thats whats on the sidewall of the tire. I dropped them to 75 last night(were 85 hot). The ride into work today was worse. Im fighting a tire balance thing too. Though they didnt hit the bumps as hard at 75 the vibration was much worse. I these newer tires have developed a hop in two of the tires and one of the wheels has a hop. Tried rebalance several times to no avail. Tossin in the towel and dropping $ on a set of new take offs. Why the hell is a big knarley truck with big knarley tires so dam hard to get a dam tire in balance!
I fight this every time I get new tires on a truck. Might try 70 or 65 PSI just for sheetz before I take the 0ught 6 to them.

 

I think most of us are running 50-60psi when we're empty.

I don't actually know what my '16 is, but when I sold my '04 I know it had 55psi all around.

-J