I believe it, but there should not have to be all these contortions to keep the locknut from ruining the initial preload or, the manual should address this. Seems pretty strange.

 

I did not use a torque wrench for the initial preload, just going by feel and drag but was very surprised as to how much tighter the bearings drag became after the lock nut was installed. It was a crapshoot at best to get everything perfect and for what it's worth the updated ratcheting style nut was much easier to use after I boogered up one of the original nuts.

 

Are you lining up the inner nut and lock ring? The ring is there to keep the inner nut from moving when you tighten the outer nut.

I prefer this type over the hi-shear nut. I have 35s on my '87 and the hi-shear nuts back off from the higher loads of the larger wheels.

 

So answering this question might help, if the parts were laid out in order how they are assembled (pics above) that might help the readers, I do not have the instructions or a schematic here but see 2 ways this could be assembled.

Option 1 inner nut on first with nipple sticking outward, then the washer w holes in it and the tab that engages the spindle to keep from turning, then outer lock nut w 4 square holes for socket torquing down to 150.

Option 2 washer w holes in it first, then inner nut w nipple pointing inward to engage holes in washer, then outer locknut w 4 square holes for socket tightening down to 150 #.

So, what say you guys ?

 

Alright, I guess my write up could help, have a look (it has been years since I did this, I haven't had an issue): https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11243835

 

Encho:

Ok good write up, but going thru the series of pics that show the 3 pieces mentioned, your pics show a brake caliper assembly then go to a pic of the inner with all 3 pieces installed, not including the sequence of installation - do you write for Chiltons by chance ? Just joking, they seem to do that kind of thing alot ......

 

^ This is the correct way.

 

Option one is correct way, be sure the locking ring holes are actually going over the pin on the first nut before installing the outside locking nut.

 

Coming in late here, I know. FWIW, I have usually found that the listed torque specs for wheel bearings are too much. Assuming that you have a good seat already by pre-tightening, I would just go by feel to get it where you want it. It's a delicate balance between too tight and too loose.

 

Usually? Can you give a few examples. The bearing manufacturers have good instructions, and the vehicle manuals are just an extension or restatement of those.

This has been my point. Something is getting lost in the translation, or people reading the wrong procedure, etc. It does take a certain amount of judgment and skill.

 

If you read all the text, not just the pictures, you'll find the procedure is properly described (or at least I remember writing it down).

 

This is how you do it.


My general process has always been to install the new bearing (it should fit tight to the spindle, and I have used a piece of DOM tubing to tap it into place in the past) then torque the inner nut to 60-80 ft/lbs. At this point, the hub should be very tight, but will generally spin a little. Then back off 90*. At this point, the hub should spin quite freely. Then install the lock washer. If the holes don't line up with the nub on the nut, flip the washer over, or tighten the inner nut a bit until it fits. Once those are on and fitting together correctly, I put the outer lock nut on at at least 100 ft/lbs.


At this point, without the tire on, the hub should turn, but it shouldn't freely spin. You should get maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of a spin this way. Once you put the tire on, you should get at least a full rotation or two with minimal effort.


I've been doing it this way for the life of the truck, and I've never had any issues.

 

The truck is gone but I now ironically have A Chiltons manual so I thought I'd have a look, it appears to me if you follow the directions it would likely work out pretty closely to perfect if you didn't skip any steps....
I didn't have a book at the time but following their directions backing off from 50ft lbs 90° would more than likely put you in the ballpark of the correct bearing preload.

It would still take some trial and error and personal judgment to get it perfect but following the Chiltons would very likely get it close enough.... I think you pretty much nailed it with the quoted text.

 

animator said it well. That's what I do. I go by feel. If I tighten to the listed specs, the hub ends up too tight. Almost every time. BTDT.

 

So, no examples, basically all of the instructions though are wrong? Doesn't that seem kinda strange to you that the bearing manufacturers (and OEM) provide incorrect procedures on the use or installation of their product? See where I'm goin' with that?

What does "BTDT"?